Rob Roy

Good luck - keep us posted!

fraggle

Coolant is drained. Doesn't look bad, but there is a petrol/oil film on top. I made sure to wash the funnel and drain pan first, so I'm going to assume it is from the gasket leak. I was going to drain the oil tonight, but I whacked my head on the damn front license plate and cut myself pretty good. Another reason to take that thing off!!

Mrmerlin

add get lic plate frames, to your parts list if you had one you probably wouldnt have gotten cut. Goodluck on you restore job and I hope the wound heals fast

fraggle

Until I'm done with this I think I'll just remove it and put it in a box!

fraggle

Exhaust is off. Need a new O2 sensor. I always forget that blasted thing. Wiring was wrecked and bodged from a previous - er - install by me, anyway. Now it REALLY needs replacement!

Coolant is drained and Radiator is out. Some oil film on the top of the coolant but not major. I tried to clean my drain pan really well before I drained it so I'm going to have to assume it is "real"!

Need an expansion tank. It leaks as well - but only when under pressure. Found this when I was blowing the coolant out with compressed air and I got some suds on the outside.

Accelerator and cruise control cables are disconnected.

Gas line is broken free, but not disconnected. Want to do that when we can have the garage OPEN!

All rad / heater hoses are disconnected.

Lower bellhousing is off. 4 bellhousing bolts are off. I expected this to be harder, but maybe I'm lucky and have just the right length wrenches for the job.

Clutch has been replaced by some PO. A PO without a torque wrench or something. Two of the allen fasteners I can see look stripped. Probably the same monkey that stripped one of the waterpump holes that I helicoiled last time. This is going to be fun.

Need to hit the search, bone up on clutch removal, remove the hood and I should be ready to pull this thing out.

Tampa 928s

Don't forget to drill your hood hinges for an easy install.

dr bob

... or unbolt the hinges from the car and take them out with the hood. Cuts down on the hood alignment issue.

fraggle

Thanks for the tips on the hood.

fraggle

Update.

Cluctch is out. After all I read I thought this was going to be a nightmare. It wasn't.

1) Motorcycle tire irons are your friend for pushing the sleeve back. That and some WD40.
2) You can make the shims out of thick washers cut in half. I can't remember who posted this first, but I stole the idea. It worked.
3) The ratchet tie trick also works great for pulling the release arm to get the shims in.
4) I was able to remove the ball for the release arm from the top when the arm was still on it with a 13mm wrench. It took a lot of turns but it came out.
5) I'm not sure if I was able to do this because the bushing was gone or not - but there was nothing left of mine.
6) Clutch is worn and needs a punt. Not past the rivets yet.... but close. PRessure plate and fylwheel look OK, no grooves in either one.

I can see some light between the mating surfaces between the bell housing and the block!

Things still to do:

1) Disconnect motor mounts.
2) Drill and pin hood, remove
3) Disconnect gas line
4) PULL.

fraggle

Almost there.

Alternator is out. Power steering disconnected. AC is disconnected. Motor mounts are unbolted from underneath.

Need to feed the harness through the firewall and disconnect a gas line and I'll be ready.

Plan on pulling it this Saturday when more help (and my [friend's] engine stand) is available.

fraggle

NEED ADVICE:

OK I've found you can't really feed the wiring harness through the firewall. What's the best course of action here? I don't want to strip the whole thing off the block, it seems like too much work.

There's got to be a shortcut!

fraggle

For anyone in the DC/VA area, we'll be pulling the motor on Sat. Come on by for BBQ(pizza?) and beer if you've got nothing going on!!

PM for details!

Mrmerlin

dont mess with harness till the motor has been raised a few inches its best to have a helper to feed the harness through the fire wall after the lift has begun also consider a floor jack or a piece of 2x4 on the front cross brace under the front of the TT,
you didnt need to pull the pivot bolt out of the bell housing unless you didnt get the washers thick enough for the PP .
The rest is pretty easy I dont remember if you said you pulled the radiator out , if its still in the car you need it removed and put a few sheets of cardboard i next to the A/C condenser so it wont get nicked

WallyP

The wire harness under the engine is attached to the chassis - it is almost strong enough to lift the car when you try to lift the engine...

Mrmerlin

ahh yes Wally the connection points are on the crossmember its a set of 10 mm clamp bolts one under the diagonal cross member brace ( Holding the alternator wire bundle)and the other holding the starter wires just next to the steering rack input shaft