mark kibort

I think i remember seeing a cam removal website or instructions, almost as detailed as J pirtles Timing belt instruction site. anyone remember seeing this?

thinking of tackling the cam removal on my own.
MK

MrLexse

Mark,
Jim has a very detailed "video" on his CD set. You'll need Porsche tools 9226/2-4 (cam bridge set), # 9234 (a seal driver), and an alignment tool (the number of which escapes me). If you're working on a MY87+, you'll also need cam bridge tool # 9248.
In addition, you'll need a dial caliper and a holder, etc. as described in Jim's video.
The cost of the rarely used tools is high $500.(?), but I've been told you can do it without the cam bridges if you follow the proper procedure.

Big Dave

Mark:

I've got pictures of the install process using the Porsche tools. You basically need to lock down the cam using the tools and then remove the other bearing caps. Once the caps are off, you gradually remove the Porsche tools, doing it evenly to avoid letting the cam bend due to the spring pressure.

It's easy, but make sure you've got everything locked down at 45 deg. BTDC

http://www.928oc.org/928oc_michigan/tbelt9.html

Chris

Dial caliper and holder are harbor freight items, just need to find something (fabricate) so the magentic base can get a grip. If you are really good you can make something like the manual shows but the previous items will suffice.

You will also need the appropriate tool to remove the bolts, one of those star appliances. Off to the local auto store.

Everything else is optional, the idea of the Porsche tools for cam removals is to prevent the cams from snapping. Gradually releasing the cam bridge bolts accomplishes the same thing espcially if you have the cam rotated so that none of the lobes are pushing down on the valves.

The manuals have pretty good instructions, although I spent over a day trying to align the passenger side cams only to find I was one chain tooth out on the inlet cam, nearer 110mm ...

But like Sterling said on another thread, with the engine in the car it sure is fun !

Oh and depending on when the cam cover seals and cam seals were last replaced those costs can add up if you need new ones.

Chris

Vilhuer

Factory cam bridge can be replaced with normal hardware store materials. They're not as pretty but do ok job.

mark kibort

thanks guys, thats GREAT. looks doable, except im a little sketchy on the entire cam timing part.
(how do you adjust the cam pulley, when it is on a woodruff key on the cam?)
I love the Erkka bar stock cam securing tool. (call it EBSCS). looks easy. probably can make the cam profile tool with a piece of thin plywood.

MK

Jim R.

Mark,

Good luck with fixing it.

As far as the woodruff key, there is a slot with adjustability on the cam gears. There is quite a bit of adjustment available in the slot-the dial indicator is definitely needed for fine tuning. Porken's timing markers are very close on my cams, but who knows what you really have in there.

Jim R

Big Dave

Mark:

Basic Cam Timing

Precise valve timing (second step)

I tried to include references when applicable to S4 models, although I have an '85. It's not hard to do if you have the factory video (on Jim's CD). I followed the video in doing it and making my page, adding in any steps I thought weren't clear. I just read the manuals and watched the video....over and over and over again...until it was clear in my head. THEN I actually went and did it.

PorKen's tool sounds like it greatly simplifies the precise valve timing process, although I've never tried it.

mark kibort

I think i get it now. printed it out and read it a few times. so, the woodruf key slot has some "room" on either side of it. once you are locked down with the two nuts, teh screws can be removed and nothing moves. if you need to move something for fine tuning, you use screws (5mm) lock down the pulley and remove the big nut. now, you loosen those nuts if you want to move the pulley slightly on the cam shaft woodruf key? tighten and you are done, remove the screws, replace with rotors, etc.

so, whats up with the 1.6mm (or 1.8mm for S4) you didnt give an updated distance for the S4 on cylinder 5-8. (2.0mm was quoted) does it change for S4? how about GT, are all these fine tuning numbers off. PLUS, if i have 85-86 cams, should i use the non-S4 primary numbers you have provided?

thanks for all the help. certainly looks doable , even more so now.

Ill probably end up marking those screws before i pull the pulleys off to get an idea of where the timing was set originally. probably crude, but it should get me closer to the ball park on the fine tuning side, right? one of the guys at the shop said he does this and verifies with the micrometer and always ends up not having to adjust the fine tuning timing.

as far as the two cams, the intake cam is just along for the ride, no adjustment other than making sure those two cam arrows point straight up and the lobes fit the template (that i can make)

thanks.

MK

ps, how about the tensioner, is that after the fact for installation? any gotchas there?

oz928s4

Good stuff in this thread

UKKid35

This is the Cam Timing Info I used, far far easier to understand than the WSM

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...gine/valve.htm

oz928s4

Yes thats a lighter read than the WSM..thanx UKKID35