How can I install cams without special tools
08-03-2001, 06:52 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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How can I install cams without special tools
Hi Sharks:
I removed camshafts and chains very gradually in an outward spiral from the middle without evident damage or special tool 9226. How do I install cams without special tools?
I removed camshafts and chains very gradually in an outward spiral from the middle without evident damage or special tool 9226. How do I install cams without special tools?
08-05-2001, 02:21 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Hi Jay,
Thanks for the replies to this and other posts. Did you just use the tools on page 15-131 of the manual: VW 387, a standard dial guage, and 9232? Where did you get the tools? How much did they cost? I looked on the Baum Tools website, and did not find them. Baum's other tools seemed very expensive.
Thanks for the replies to this and other posts. Did you just use the tools on page 15-131 of the manual: VW 387, a standard dial guage, and 9232? Where did you get the tools? How much did they cost? I looked on the Baum Tools website, and did not find them. Baum's other tools seemed very expensive.
08-08-2001, 03:07 AM
#4
Racer
thomhross
Dont let jay scare you , just do like you did to take them off. Remember a little at a time!
Almost any VW tool can be be had from:
http://www.zelenda.com/
I have bought a few of the tools listed in the manuals from them.
Good Luck
Dont let jay scare you , just do like you did to take them off. Remember a little at a time!
Almost any VW tool can be be had from:
http://www.zelenda.com/
I have bought a few of the tools listed in the manuals from them.
Good Luck
08-10-2001, 12:59 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
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Max,
Thanks for the encouragement. Jay did respond to an external email. The VW tool for dialing in the 2 cams per head was a pain per him. He ended up using a dial guage, holding it perpendicular to the hyrdraulic lifter without other specified cam adjustment tools, I think. I have not yet fully analyzed the cam setup methodology. I still have time to even get through the head rebuild process first. Any tips on cam adjustment?
Thanks for the encouragement. Jay did respond to an external email. The VW tool for dialing in the 2 cams per head was a pain per him. He ended up using a dial guage, holding it perpendicular to the hyrdraulic lifter without other specified cam adjustment tools, I think. I have not yet fully analyzed the cam setup methodology. I still have time to even get through the head rebuild process first. Any tips on cam adjustment?
08-10-2001, 09:30 AM
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Thom-
If you follow the steps in the manuals it'll work out okay.
Be sure to align the marks on the cam bosses with the gold links on the tensioner chains and install facing straight up as shown.
Install the bearing caps and such, then align the cams to TDC and the crank - install the belt. Rotate assembly 4 full revolutions slowly listening for noises that you don't want to hear - if you've got the cams set as described above you should have no problems. Then tension belt. Per the Factory shop video that I have they said this was to ensure the belt becomes evenly stressed.
Checking the final dial adjustment - I rotated the drive assembly such that the testing point cam lobe pointed straight up - and got a reference mark. I made measurements at 45 B4 TDC, @TDC, 10 past TDC and 20 past TDC and compared readings. For the 85/86 models - #1 Intake valve must be set for 1.6 +/- 0.1 mm @ 20 past TDC and for #6 2.0 (I think - look at the manuals) at the same point with the same tolerance.
If for some reason you see the above value occur at TDC or 40 past TDC - you've got the Intake Cam set one tooth off with respect to the rest of the rotating assembly (the gears on the cams have 19 teeth - which equates to ~19 degrees rotation). The Exhaust Cams are pretty easy to get right just due to the timing marks on the gears.
I measured the values using a dial caliper and converted mm to 1/1000ths and took alot of notes and crunched alot of numbers. To ensure the same results each time - I scribed a line on the bearing cap exactly parallel to the retaining bolt - then used that mark each time to ensure I was using a common reference point.
HTH-
If you follow the steps in the manuals it'll work out okay.
Be sure to align the marks on the cam bosses with the gold links on the tensioner chains and install facing straight up as shown.
Install the bearing caps and such, then align the cams to TDC and the crank - install the belt. Rotate assembly 4 full revolutions slowly listening for noises that you don't want to hear - if you've got the cams set as described above you should have no problems. Then tension belt. Per the Factory shop video that I have they said this was to ensure the belt becomes evenly stressed.
Checking the final dial adjustment - I rotated the drive assembly such that the testing point cam lobe pointed straight up - and got a reference mark. I made measurements at 45 B4 TDC, @TDC, 10 past TDC and 20 past TDC and compared readings. For the 85/86 models - #1 Intake valve must be set for 1.6 +/- 0.1 mm @ 20 past TDC and for #6 2.0 (I think - look at the manuals) at the same point with the same tolerance.
If for some reason you see the above value occur at TDC or 40 past TDC - you've got the Intake Cam set one tooth off with respect to the rest of the rotating assembly (the gears on the cams have 19 teeth - which equates to ~19 degrees rotation). The Exhaust Cams are pretty easy to get right just due to the timing marks on the gears.
I measured the values using a dial caliper and converted mm to 1/1000ths and took alot of notes and crunched alot of numbers. To ensure the same results each time - I scribed a line on the bearing cap exactly parallel to the retaining bolt - then used that mark each time to ensure I was using a common reference point.
HTH-
08-10-2001, 01:53 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Hi Jay,
Thanks again for the great help! I can visualize going through that process now.
The heads should make it through rebuild within 2 weeks. I am degreasing parts, prepping for paint, looking for inexpensive hose replacement alternatives, and replacing nuts and bolts and such now. Perhaps I can give your procedures a try in a few weeks. 
Keep those road rockets flying!
Thanks again for the great help! I can visualize going through that process now.
The heads should make it through rebuild within 2 weeks. I am degreasing parts, prepping for paint, looking for inexpensive hose replacement alternatives, and replacing nuts and bolts and such now. Perhaps I can give your procedures a try in a few weeks. Keep those road rockets flying!
