Improving Shifter Design
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: SC, USA
Improving Shifter Design
Due to rusted and stripped exhaust bolts, I've been yet unable to replace the front ball cup plastic part that gives 928 owners sloppy shifting. I started to wonder about a better design, all that metal work seems excessive when you consider the original intent of the front ball cup, to allow "roll" in the shifter when selecting gears and to brace the shifting lever when going forwards and backwards. Does anybody know of any other functions besides those two? If not, you can accomplish those goals a lot simpler, with a crescent shaped bar of metal through the top hole of the shift lever.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
Some people have improved it. Brendan speaks of a heim joint I think. Carl Fauset of 928 Motorsports offers another improved design of the anchor point. Lots of stuff could be debated for reengineering, but this problem has been
Another guy here from Canada has fabricated his own linkage, but he is building a very powerful custom 928 and has serious skills.
It will be tough but you can drill or snap your bolts and gain access.
Another guy here from Canada has fabricated his own linkage, but he is building a very powerful custom 928 and has serious skills.
It will be tough but you can drill or snap your bolts and gain access.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,235
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta
Different ball cup, but same part number. The ball cup at the front of the shift linkage is attached to the top/forward end of the torque tube. You have to drop the cat section to get to it and small hands will help.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
Replacing it with a heim joint is THE best way to go imho.
I am going to be making a bracket which just clamps to the TT and can utilites a hiem joint instead of having to drop the tube to drill and tap a hole.
If your exhaust bolts are rusted, then you can just apply alittle more force and the bolt will break in half.
I am going to be making a bracket which just clamps to the TT and can utilites a hiem joint instead of having to drop the tube to drill and tap a hole.
If your exhaust bolts are rusted, then you can just apply alittle more force and the bolt will break in half.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,179
Likes: 4,172
From: Philly PA
I would recommend the part that Carl makes for the front ball cup replacement, it is a permanent fix once you get it installed and it will never be a problem. If the bolts wont come loose a good OXY/ACE torch will burn the bolts heads off
Last edited by Mrmerlin; Oct 5, 2008 at 02:11 PM.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 25,186
Likes: 105
By all means, my heim joint solution, as many of my other wicki-doe's, is not well suited to people who wish to actually drive their cars in this millennium.
Trending Topics
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Verdad Gallardo
10 Porsche Colors That Have More Personality Than Most People
Verdad Gallardo
Guntherwerks' Final Speedster Creation Is the Ultimate Porsche Restomod
Verdad Gallardo
10 Reasons I Hate Going to the Porsche Dealership (& the 1 Reason I Stay)
Joe Kucinski
Porsche Shakes Up The Nürburgring Lap Record Table Once Again
Verdad Gallardo
6 Ways the Porsche 911 GT3 S/C Redefines Performance
Joe Kucinski
10 Wildest Homologation Specials Porsche Ever Sold
Verdad Gallardo
Super Rare RUF BTR III Comes Out of Hibernation, Looking For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Porsche Opinions That Can Start a Fight
Joe Kucinski
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,724
Likes: 12
From: Florida, USA
I've never understood why everybody makes such a big deal about the ball cup. It isn't difficult or expensive if you only change the bushing. Tie wire it and you don't have to worried about it stranding you, and once it's done it should last another 40k miles.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 247
Likes: 1
From: Sydney, Australia
BTW, I replaced the wire too!
Almost Deleted
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,009
Likes: 2
From: Muenster, TX
I agree. I found out about the shifter cup via the Rennlist, after several years of 928 ownership, and realised what the wire around the front of my torque tube probably was for. Sure enough, the shifter cup was wired on, and the plastic bush was missing. I fitted a new shifter cup and it made no difference to the shift that I noticed.
BTW, I replaced the wire too!
BTW, I replaced the wire too!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 247
Likes: 1
From: Sydney, Australia
I actually spent a portion of my afternoon fixing my ball cup on the side of the road. Thankfully, I was close to home. I replaced my bushing last week with a new one. Apparently, the cup wasn't completely seated. I used a large hose clamp to limp it home. I had a solid shifter cup on order from Carl at 928 Motorsports anyway. Should have it installed later this week.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 25,186
Likes: 105
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,724
Likes: 12
From: Florida, USA
To seat the shifter cup on the ball, I tied a length of rope around the bottom of the torque tube and over the cup bolt (ie the bit what wasn't screwed into the shifter rod; I didn't loop the rope over the shifter rod for fear of bending it), leaving it a little loose, then inserted something suitably long (like the tyre brace) into the rope loop and screwed the rope tight to pull the cup onto the ball.
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 11,542
Likes: 4
From: Anaheim California
A couple large hose clamps end to end (the screw type) will go around the cup and the torque tube. It is easy to turn with a rachet and socket and the new unit snaps firmly in place. The clamps can be left in place slightly loosened. The "replacement" plastic bushing is NOT THE RIGHT PART...just very similar. As mentioned getting the plastic to compress into the metal socket is not all that easy and it can pop out ! The correct original part 928 424 005 00 Angular joint , costs about $80. That is what I just put in the old very brown 1980...at home in the driveway ... did not bother driving to 928 to use the lift and air tools. It is really no big deal.