Ran fine then no start out of no where???
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Hey all,
This morning I had some errands to run and got up early. The car ran great for like 20-30 mins to my destination. I was there for about an hour and got back in the car and it wouldn't start. I would kick and wanna start but would just shut right off after like 2 seconds. That or it would start and idle real low like 300 rpm and almost die for like 10 seconds then it would just quit. I tried even coaxing it with the throttle but it would cause the car to die. After several tries it just started cranking with no pop at all. Ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Jacob
This morning I had some errands to run and got up early. The car ran great for like 20-30 mins to my destination. I was there for about an hour and got back in the car and it wouldn't start. I would kick and wanna start but would just shut right off after like 2 seconds. That or it would start and idle real low like 300 rpm and almost die for like 10 seconds then it would just quit. I tried even coaxing it with the throttle but it would cause the car to die. After several tries it just started cranking with no pop at all. Ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Jacob
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Sounds like fuel related. I would jump the FP relay first or test horn, if that works, replace FP relay with horn relay. Do you still have the relay chart in the sleeve over the access panel? If not go to 928gt.com. Print the schematic Dave has provided for your MY.
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Yep I have the relay chart and I tried jumping the relay with a wire and didn't seem to make a difference. Problem is the car is like 5 miles away stranded and I can't get back to it till later. Im trying to compile as many ideas hoping that I could avoid having it towed to my apartment. Thanks for the help so far!
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There is lots of gas in the tank?
The FP relay is interchangable with many............the horn relay is a good choice. With the relay jumpered the pump should constantly run. Pull the air filter lid and make sure nothings obstructing flow. If you have a helper perhaps pull a spark plug or 2 and check for ignition.
The relay for the fuel computer is the same as the FP relay..............swap it with horn, defrost, HVAC etc.
The FP relay is interchangable with many............the horn relay is a good choice. With the relay jumpered the pump should constantly run. Pull the air filter lid and make sure nothings obstructing flow. If you have a helper perhaps pull a spark plug or 2 and check for ignition.
The relay for the fuel computer is the same as the FP relay..............swap it with horn, defrost, HVAC etc.
#7
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Have to ask, fuel in tank?
How old is the batt?
When you jumped the fp, did you hear it run?
Pumps usu do a slow death, but you need to know if fuel is getting pumped, could be filter or plugged pump.
I would pull plug, wet or evidence of fuel present, might mean ignition relay. Determine if you have spark? If both those relays are good and you have spark, I defer to others re computer problem. There is a condition, hot-no start. It will start after 20 mins to 1 hour. Maybe someone can jump in here re computer, or search for same.
I had a ground problem, from long cold, it would start w/starter fluid, got worse, wouldn't start at all. Your car sits out? Check batt ground + others in engine bay, including coils and ground to coils.
Good luck.
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When you jumped the fp, did you hear it run?
Pumps usu do a slow death, but you need to know if fuel is getting pumped, could be filter or plugged pump.
I would pull plug, wet or evidence of fuel present, might mean ignition relay. Determine if you have spark? If both those relays are good and you have spark, I defer to others re computer problem. There is a condition, hot-no start. It will start after 20 mins to 1 hour. Maybe someone can jump in here re computer, or search for same.
I had a ground problem, from long cold, it would start w/starter fluid, got worse, wouldn't start at all. Your car sits out? Check batt ground + others in engine bay, including coils and ground to coils.
Good luck.
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Well I think there is a 1/4 tank unless my gauge is suddenly inaccurate, the batt is new as of a few months ago and cranks real hard even after a bunch of tries. Yea car does sit outside. As of not Im gonna check the coil grounds, other grounds in the engine bay, as well as switching the ignition and fuel pump relays with HVAC and Horn. Thanks this is all very helpful. Keep them ideas comin!
Jacob
Jacob
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Not saying this is the fault, but when was the last time you changed the fuel-filter ?..., I had very similar symptoms, although mine would start and immediately die,.... turned out that the filter innards had collapsed constricting the fuel flow, yours maybe blocked ? new filter/lines cleaned, and she fired up back to normal.
Ken
80 928s
5 Speed
UK
Ken
80 928s
5 Speed
UK
#11
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Hey all,
This morning I had some errands to run and got up early. The car ran great for like 20-30 mins to my destination. I was there for about an hour and got back in the car and it wouldn't start. I would kick and wanna start but would just shut right off after like 2 seconds. That or it would start and idle real low like 300 rpm and almost die for like 10 seconds then it would just quit. I tried even coaxing it with the throttle but it would cause the car to die. After several tries it just started cranking with no pop at all. Ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Jacob
This morning I had some errands to run and got up early. The car ran great for like 20-30 mins to my destination. I was there for about an hour and got back in the car and it wouldn't start. I would kick and wanna start but would just shut right off after like 2 seconds. That or it would start and idle real low like 300 rpm and almost die for like 10 seconds then it would just quit. I tried even coaxing it with the throttle but it would cause the car to die. After several tries it just started cranking with no pop at all. Ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Jacob
If you turn on the key can you here clicking under the hood? specifically the injectors. if you can hear this, its a sure thing, however, if you dont hear it still doesnt mean that this is not the problem. This is exactly how my 89 acted when the ECU was bad. Some really good troubleshooting can be found here:
http://electronikrepair.com/page6.html
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Hey guys thanks again for the advice! Now the question is Is there anyone in the Buffalo NY area that would be willing to let me try their LH and or MAF? That or the Albany NY area I travel to albany frequently and could pick it up / bring it back. I would really appreciate the help.
Thank you,
Jacob
Thank you,
Jacob
#14
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Hey guys thanks again for the advice! Now the question is Is there anyone in the Buffalo NY area that would be willing to let me try their LH and or MAF? That or the Albany NY area I travel to albany frequently and could pick it up / bring it back. I would really appreciate the help.
Thank you,
Jacob
Thank you,
Jacob
#15
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if you want to test things its better to use your parts in a car thats running well, this let the good running car have a chance to either confirm or fail the part being tested