no doubt

Had to fix my driver-side window motor today. Easy. Yank off the door panels. Remove two "star" bolts from the window motor. Pull the plastic bushing assembly out of the magentic motor casing and clean.

Pictorial here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/466126-how-to-repair-928-window-motors.html

no doubt

Drove around, tested my window...works. Great! Then my low fuel light came on. Uh oh. No problem, lots of fuel in the reserve, yes?!

Drove home. Let the wife out. Started up the 928 again and the idle started going *nuts* from 1000 rpms down to 500 then back up in giant, non-stop-rapid surges! Up 500 rpms, then down 500 rpms, then up 100 rpms and down 100 rpms, then up 50 and down 50, then up 500 and down 500, over and over.

Oh no! I must be out of gas, right? Turned her off.

Grabbed a spare gas can, added fuel. Started up the car and once again the idle is going nuts. Turned her off and charged the battery for two hours to full charge.

Started her up and *again* the idle is going nuts.

So I disconnected the battery ground cable to reset the LH and EZK computers. Reconnected the battery ground, started her up and...




Stable idle.


Oy vey! All fixed.

no doubt

Added this el-cheapo ($15!) leather shift **** to my shark today. You can find them on eBay and at this POS store: http://www.poliauto.com/html/catalogs/trend06.htm #14-558 black leather.

Looks and feels nice to the touch. Exact size match to the 928's shift tube vertical column, and reasonably close to the stock 928 shift **** dimensions.

I prefer the mettalic button look and the newer, softer leather on this clone than what is on my 20 year old OEM shift ****, for whatever that opinion is worth (not much!).

Rob Edwards

Don't throw away the factory handle, new is $400+, used ones for 85-95 go for $200 at 928Intl......

U928 426 075 01

no doubt

I installed a new/rebuilt MAF today to fix an idle/running/starting issue https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-any-rpms.html . Car starts and runs fine now. I drove it all around town, then changed my oil at 128,028 miles to ENEOS 5W40 (oil pressure is now 2.25 bars at idle, and 5 bars isn't reached until 2250 RPMs...whereas prior to this, oil pressure was 2.75 bars at idle, and 5 bars was reached at 1900 RPMs), changed my fuel filter..had a blast driving around running errands.

Life is good.




*ENEOS Dyno Test: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...dyno-test.html

no doubt

My timing belt light started turning on earlier and earlier on each drive, so today I sent the wife and kids out to the local club pool while I pulled in the shark and had her to myself.

Followed V1UhOh's simple instructions to check the tension on the timing belt at TDC (used my own tensionmeter). Sure enough, my timing belt was floppy loose. Tightened her up into the 5 range and now no more timing belt light!

Yay! Victory!

One note, the instructions for tightening the tensioner don't mention that the tensioner has a lock nut. This is overwhelmingly obvious, but if someone was literally just blindly following the steps to tighten, they could easily round off that 17mm bolt head without tightening a thing.

So, the moral here is: #1: loosen the 17mm lock nut on the tensioner, then #2 adjust tension by turning clockwise (to tighten) on the 17mm tensioner bolt head, then #3 hold that bolt head in place while tightening the 17 mm lock nut (both are on the same shaft on the tensioner).

Remeasure your belt tension and then put her all back together (timing belt cover, distributor, plug wires, oil dipstick tube bolt, blue radiator drain plug, dual fan shround unit, reconnect both fans to electrics, smog pump hose, both upper radiator hoses, A/C wire, Tension Warning light wire, and air intake tubes).

Now fill up the radiator, start up the motor, bleed the rad, monitor fans and temp, listen for any undue noises, and pending no warning signs, drive!


Life is good.

no doubt

Seafoamed my engine, fuel injectors, and air intake. WD-40'd the idle air injector. Used MAF cleaner to spray both sides of my MAF. Then flushed the motor with NAPA engine oil flush. No black smog emitted during either process, indicating a very clean internal engine top and bottom.

Changed my oil (and Porsche filter, and drain plug crush ring of course) today at 132,301 miles with ENEOS 5W40 (oil pressure remains 2.25 bars at idle, and 5 bars isn't reached until 2250 RPMs).


Life is good. There is no substitute.

Mrmerlin

keep an eye on the belt if it gets loose again then you WP may be on the way out

WallyP

Great blog on getting a neglected car back up to standard. A few comments:

If you don't have them, I think that you would love Jim Morehouse's 928 tech info set. There is a huge amount of tech info, including the full manual set, changes by year, videos, etc. The best money that you can spend on your 928.
jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @

The K&N doesn't appear to be a good idea on the 928. Back-to-back dyno tests shows no power gain. The oil tends to coat the fine platinum wire in the MAF, causing problems.

"Other than that step, I just used simple hand tools to do the job in 3+ hours. Set the alternator belt tension at 110 ft/lbs per my handheld Cricket tensionometer...didn't seem "too" tight, could still put a bend in the belt with one finger."
The ribbed alternator belt needs to be really tight. Using the Porsche gauge, the timing belt tightens to 5.0, while the alternator belt tightens to 9!

I would use a C clip on the headlight bar.

You didn't mention filling the tensioner with oil - I hope you did, as that is a critical step.

Let us know if we can help.

no doubt

Thanks. Waterpump is one year old, but if my timing belt light comes back on I'll go back in and check the tension on the belt to see if I need to redo the whole timing belt/water pump job over from scratch.

no doubt

Thanks, and thanks again. I started out on this website defending K&N, so you'll find some of my old posts heralding it.

However, since I've had to clean my old and now my new MAF twice...I'm no longer a K&N fan. If I have to clean my new MAF one more time, I'll toss the K&N filter and go back to OEM paper.

I did *not* refill the tensioner with oil, however, it is only 1 year old (presuming that the Porsche dealership did the work that I was charged for back then).

IF...that oil-filling step is mandatory when merely checking/adjusting tension, then we need to update V1UhOh's step-by-step guide to include said step.

I must admit that I am disenchanted with the work that I paid to have done at the local Tom William's Porsche dealership, however, getting my own hands dirty fixing everything since then has been fun and educational.




....Oh, and I did re-tighten my alternator belt. Now I've got 12.5 volts at idle! Whoo Hoo! That's an easy job to do, too.

IrishLegend

I couldn't get the website to work?

no doubt

That's an email address!

no doubt

My rear wiper started jumping off the side of the rear window...then the motor would turn without the wiper blade moving.

Just under the black S4 wing on the edge of the two wiper arms are small black plastic caps. I lifted up those caps and found one nut under each (both different sizes). I loosened both nuts so that the wiper was free to move by hand.

Then I positioned the rear wiper in the normal vertical "off" position on the rear glass, and held it in place while I tightened down those two nuts. Snapped the black plastic caps back down (they are hinged) and now my rear wiper is working properly again.

Easy fix.

Life is good.

IrishLegend

That explains it.