Jumping The Shark?!
10-08-2008, 06:22 PM
#61
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
JB Weld is still holding on the radiator and headlight winder arm at D-Day +3 after some more driving.
Installed a wooden OEM footrest cover over the passenger side CE panel today. Some prior owner had deleted this feature before me!
Installed a wooden OEM footrest cover over the passenger side CE panel today. Some prior owner had deleted this feature before me!
10-09-2008, 06:05 PM
#63
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not driving to Sharktoberfest, sorry! Y'all have fun without me. Take lots of pics and smoke some rubber.
Installed a K&N airfilter today. Also installed the mirror adjustment joystick button...and a radar detector (new Bel unit) that I hard-wired (all hidden) to come on only when the ignition is on.
Fixed the passenger-side front seat so that it would raise/lower the seat-back from the manual high-mounted side-clip yesterday, too.
Installed a K&N airfilter today. Also installed the mirror adjustment joystick button...and a radar detector (new Bel unit) that I hard-wired (all hidden) to come on only when the ignition is on.
Fixed the passenger-side front seat so that it would raise/lower the seat-back from the manual high-mounted side-clip yesterday, too.
10-09-2008, 06:44 PM
#64
Rennlist Member
10-09-2008, 07:40 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I installed a cheap fire extinguisher in the engine bay today (pics here): https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...03#post5886903
Pretty easy. One 17 mm bolt and one concealed cable tie for the bracket. It's an automatic fire extinguisher, so even if I am knocked unconscious, pinned in the car, electrics go out, or if a fire happens when I'm away from my car, I'm covered.
The Halon fire extinguisher goes off automatically at 286 degrees F. For comparison, the melting point of Polyethylene plastic (air tubes, anyone?!) is 250 degrees F: http://www.machinist-materials.com/c...r_plastics.htm .
I paid $150 delivered for this particular 1 pound SS-30 unit at: http://www.firefight1.com/prod_ss-30.html , but you might be able to find them for as little as $95 if you look around. It's Made In The USA, by the way.
To be sure, I probably need 2 units under the hood, one on each side...and I'd prefer to have them under the air filter instead of over the shock towers, if I can work a decent installation. But some fire protection is better than none, and certainly aids the time that I would have to escape a vehicle.
YMMV.
Pretty easy. One 17 mm bolt and one concealed cable tie for the bracket. It's an automatic fire extinguisher, so even if I am knocked unconscious, pinned in the car, electrics go out, or if a fire happens when I'm away from my car, I'm covered.
The Halon fire extinguisher goes off automatically at 286 degrees F. For comparison, the melting point of Polyethylene plastic (air tubes, anyone?!) is 250 degrees F: http://www.machinist-materials.com/c...r_plastics.htm .
I paid $150 delivered for this particular 1 pound SS-30 unit at: http://www.firefight1.com/prod_ss-30.html , but you might be able to find them for as little as $95 if you look around. It's Made In The USA, by the way.
To be sure, I probably need 2 units under the hood, one on each side...and I'd prefer to have them under the air filter instead of over the shock towers, if I can work a decent installation. But some fire protection is better than none, and certainly aids the time that I would have to escape a vehicle.
YMMV.
10-09-2008, 09:19 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
10-09-2008, 10:39 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
Just a note, after punching my radiator with the infamous headlight actuating arm, I did a JB weld fix, and a year and 4-5000 miles later it's still fine. And BTW no more e-clips - that arm is secured with cotter pins now.
10-10-2008, 04:19 AM
#71
Rennlist Member
IIRC, people who have checked to see what difference it makes when you take those screens out(dyno or other measure) have found that it runs better with them in -- something about having a less turbulent airflow.
10-10-2008, 07:08 AM
#72
Team Owner
sell the KnN on Ebay and install the factory air filter
10-14-2008, 08:16 PM
#73
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pictorial on fixing my right rear wheel-well area fuel smell: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...42#post5901142
10-15-2008, 01:36 PM
#74
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Put some cheap Sumitomos (225/50/16 & 245/45/16) on all of the corners today, went with the OEM 36/44 front/rear tire pressure recommendation (wow!), and had the shark aligned. Camber was off -.2 degrees on front left, -1.5 on front right...caster was off 4.2 degrees on front left and 5.2 degrees on front right. Toe in was .29" off on front left, dead on on front right. The "steer ahead" was off by -.29"!
Rears were off -.7 on left camber, -.9 on right camber, -0.3" on left toe in, +.13" on right toe in. Thrust angle was off -.16".
Much improved driving/steering/handling/ride now that's been corrected properly.
Rears were off -.7 on left camber, -.9 on right camber, -0.3" on left toe in, +.13" on right toe in. Thrust angle was off -.16".
Much improved driving/steering/handling/ride now that's been corrected properly.
10-16-2008, 05:02 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Voltage needle started bouncing up and down between 14v and 10v this week, in synch with rpms at idle I'd see surges of 25 to 50 rpms in a constant cycle plus and minus idle speed. VroomVROOMVroomVROOM... At idle in Drive, my 928 would surge and lag. Higher rpms she drove fine.
Oil pressure gage started spiking down, then gradually moving up, and dash warning lights started randomly going on.
Since I've got a new battery, I figured it was a failed voltage regulator. Disconnected both battery cables, then jacked up my shark, measured alt belt tension at 105ft/lbs, and pulled the alternator to replace the voltage regulator...uggg...prior owner had installed some clone aftermarket 70 Amp el cheapo unit...not worth rebuilding.
Splurged for a 115 Amp Bosch unit! HUA!
The most difficult part of the job was getting the 24mm central pulley nut off of the old 70 Amp alternator shaft to allow me to move the stock pulley over to my new 115A alternator. Had to take my alternators both to a nearby shop to use their air rattle gun for the off/on steps. Used medium blue thread lock on the shaft upon installation of the pulley/fan combo onto my new alternator.
Other than that step, I just used simple hand tools to do the job in 3+ hours. Set the alternator belt tension at 110 ft/lbs per my handheld Cricket tensionometer...didn't seem "too" tight, could still put a bend in the belt with one finger.
Nice R&R. Fixed all of the above surging/idle/dash/pressure issues.
Oil pressure gage started spiking down, then gradually moving up, and dash warning lights started randomly going on.
Since I've got a new battery, I figured it was a failed voltage regulator. Disconnected both battery cables, then jacked up my shark, measured alt belt tension at 105ft/lbs, and pulled the alternator to replace the voltage regulator...uggg...prior owner had installed some clone aftermarket 70 Amp el cheapo unit...not worth rebuilding.
Splurged for a 115 Amp Bosch unit! HUA!
The most difficult part of the job was getting the 24mm central pulley nut off of the old 70 Amp alternator shaft to allow me to move the stock pulley over to my new 115A alternator. Had to take my alternators both to a nearby shop to use their air rattle gun for the off/on steps. Used medium blue thread lock on the shaft upon installation of the pulley/fan combo onto my new alternator.
Other than that step, I just used simple hand tools to do the job in 3+ hours. Set the alternator belt tension at 110 ft/lbs per my handheld Cricket tensionometer...didn't seem "too" tight, could still put a bend in the belt with one finger.
Nice R&R. Fixed all of the above surging/idle/dash/pressure issues.