Some of you may remember I removed my old cracked timing belt a few months ago. I made a mistake and did this at 0 degree TDC. When I did this both cam gears moved. Since then it has been impossible to get them to align, each time I try one side is 1 tooth off.

Can I turn it "as is" to 45 degree and then try align them? Is there a chance the cams will move at 45 degree with the belt off?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

are the cams getting stuck via the valves hiting? if so, its a tough one. you have to move the cam that is out of alignment via a large vice grips. or (30mm wench or whatever fits on that large nut) and align the cam to the proper position. align the driver side first, then with the belt tight on that side helped with a wrench, do the other side to the alignment marks.

Mk

 

Doesn't the Porken tool work at 0 TDC? If so, set the crank at TDC, use the Porken tool and viola. If not, and you now have no frame of reference, you'll be taking off the cam covers and getting a dial indicator.

Only other thing I can think of, is to put the belt on one tooth off(if you're sure it one tooth), then carefully rotate the crank around with the crank nut to 45*, and use the tick marks on the cam, and backing plate. It should rotate cleanly being one tooth off. If you encounter any stoppage, don't force it.

 

Are you trying to match the notch on the back of the gear with the V? These may never line up.

0° or 45°, TDC #1 or #6 (because of differing belt tensions at different angles it's most accurate at 0° #1).

 

to set the cam belt do it this way, start at the crank at TDC , going the opposite direction of travel rout the the oil pump then turn the gear CCW so the belt is tight, then hold the driverside cam to the correct line up position put the belt on this then under the water pump, then around the tensioner( it should already be there)then holding the pass side cam in the correct position put the belt on this one, Tension the belt and turn the engine over by hand back to TDC and recheck for line up and belt tension

 

I think he needs the gross timing done first.

you can do it, but you need to lock the cams with a wrench. I use a large visegrip as it doesnt have the characteristic of moving back and forth in the wrench. (unless you have a good wrench and it fits tight)
anway, you should be able to set the aligment the normal way and if you need to fine tune, the porken tool will work, but it doesnt sound like that has been altered as you are only doing a timing belt change.

mk

QUOTE=docmirror;5784407]Doesn't the Porken tool work at 0 TDC? If so, set the crank at TDC, use the Porken tool and viola. If not, and you now have no frame of reference, you'll be taking off the cam covers and getting a dial indicator.

Only other thing I can think of, is to put the belt on one tooth off(if you're sure it one tooth), then carefully rotate the crank around with the crank nut to 45*, and use the tick marks on the cam, and backing plate. It should rotate cleanly being one tooth off. If you encounter any stoppage, don't force it.[/QUOTE]

 

regardless of the normal thought and WSM, I do the timing belt with the crank at TDC for all the cars.

I have never had an issue doing this. Use a 30mm wrench to turn the cams to where they need to be to get the belt onto them.

 

It's a 32mm wrench that fits the nut-washer thing, not a 30mm, 17mm for the cam bolt.
I agree, you CAN set the cams with the crank at 0 deg TDC using the PorKen tool, the tool works great to find out where the cams are in relation to the gear. Get the cams set to aling to the gear notches, then to the notches on the heads.
If the crank was at 45 deg TDC then you could set the cams with the PorKen tool too, and then after you rotate the crank clockwise five full times, stop at 0 deg TDC and re-check the tension.

Oh and you don't have to turn the crank, leave it at 45 deg TDC, borrow a PoorKen 32valv'r and set the cams, at 45 deg TDC the pistons won't hit the valves if you rotate the cams, don't turn the crank!

correction made: thank's Mark (I had crank on my mind)

 

Hmm, thats probably why i didnt use the wrench, i dont have one that big!

the cam bolt is more like a 19mm or 17mm, right?

I know you are geeked up with the porken tool, but this guy is just trying to set basic timing. the Vnotches are fine . He is saying that he is a tooth off, and the suggestions so far will get him there. either at 45 or 0 he can set the v notches to the pulley. 6 teeth to the side of the v mark is the 45degree mark on the pulley

mk

 

Your right Mark, I just did not want to see him turning the crank from 0 to 45 w/o the belt attached!!

He should be able to set them approx right where they are at (0 TDC), but until he gets a tool on there (or pulls the cam covers and does the workshop manual dance) he won't know how off they are set.

 

Thanks guys, I will try to get the tb job completed this weekend so I can start working on my newly acquired 1968 Corvette Convertible :-).

 

A little late, but you can always lock the cams so they dont move.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=locking+cams