sublimate

I think the offset was stamped on the rim - you can just about make it out in the picture of the painted rim in post #32 above.

IIRC, they were 18x10.5 ET 52 (but I may be confusing the front offset w/ the rear)

Tampa 928s

I found this on the wheel; 10J 18h but does not give the offset.

Is this where the mystery piece go?

Tampa 928s

Found the web site this is what I think the offset is , (10 x 18 12 bis 55). so what does this do for me are they too wide?

http://www.azev.de/programm/radfinde...hp?typ=E&size=

Tampa 928s

I found the location for the bracket never would of guessed they put it there. Seems like this kit was not well thought out.

Tampa 928s

Headlamps are going nuts:
The main power feed was off of the motor connection point. I replaced the bar making sure the C-clips were installed. The headlamps go up and proceed to go back down and up again. It seems the motor is doing a 360 and not reversing and the arm is hitting on the body. What controls this, is there a limit switch the reverses the polarity? Also the the headlamps are dead but the high beam switch is disconnected so that may be the problem. Any feedback?

Tampa 928s

Update:
Dash is out
Blower motor does not work: picture shows a relay connection that I don't have in my bag of parts.
No Voltage Reading but low level lamp comes on during start, and idle voltage is correct.

What is this?

Tampa 928s

I did not want to share this but since I got shafted here goes.
I sent my drivers seat, rear tool cover and dash out to Classic upholstery Tampa Florida. What I got back was a good tool panel an ok seat and a ruined dash.
The pictures speak for them self, I am taking them to another shop and see if they can fix this mess. I called Visa and it could take 90 Days for a resolution and no response from classic.

Letter to Classic:
I had brought my seat, rear panel and dash for my Porsche to repair the leather to your faculty on 10/17/08. I was assured that you have worked on high-end cars and your company was experienced in these types of repairs. I was informed that the items would be available for pick-up on the 23rd but after calling was told you did not have the leather in stock and would be ready by Friday or Saturday. I called Friday the 24th and was informed it was ready but you were closed on Saturday due to the lack of work. I did follow up with a call on Saturday to get store hours, did indeed find you were open, and went to pick-up my items.
When I arrived, two employees had my items waiting. I started to check out the repairs and immediately noticed that on three spots that the leather dash was uneven and dipped therefore creating a large gap in the dash. I brought this to there attention and said I was not satisfied with the results. The Female Employee called either the manager or owner stating my concerns. The response was it would cost an additional $250.00 to correct this issue. Judging by your time in business, I can only assume that have the ability to estimate a repair and perform your work to a much higher standard. This dash is completely unacceptable and is now preventing me for completing my restoration and subsequent car show. I have disputed the $325.00 of the $695.50 bill and instructed by Visa to get another estimate to repair the dash correctly.
Since I did not speak to the owners directly, I want to allow your company the opportunity to correct your work at no additional charge. If this is not acceptable please contact me and I will pursue my other options, which will include dispute agencies and if needed legal recourse. I am hopeful that this is just a miscommunication and one of your Employees was having a bad day.
To review; the dash has large gaps, the stitching is much too large in comparison the original Porsche stitching and the stitching is uneven. I will e-mail pictures if you will supply an E-mail address. Please contact me to go over this as soon as possible.

Fabio421

OMG thats horrible looking. Thats sucks Mark. I was hoping you had found a good local shop for interior repairs. I guess not.

SeanR

Ouch, that blows.

Did you get the mirror issues resolved?

Tampa 928s

Mirror is not wired correctly, the switch is used for one motor and a solenoid the new mirrors have two motors. I am going to trace all the connections and maybe Allen can help with this, it's on the list but not the top of it. I can power the mirrors directly and they work by reversing the polarity.

McLovin

So what was wrong with the dash in that area before it was covered? Is there a missing piece of dash under that dent? Is this a "before" pic?

And whats with the claw hammer? Was the dash nailed in place?

Alan

Is this still an issue? on pre S4's the headlight motor only goes one way round - half a cycle for up - the other half for down. The headlights won't come on as long as the motor is being driven. The motor should stop based on the limit switches in the motor they are probably not making good contact or the diodes are damaged. It is usually quite practical to repair. Mark the motor & actuator position when you take it out.

Alan

Alan

Did you install new mirrors? - Aero's or Flags? '87-'91 flags are different to '78-'86 flags and have the same motor arrangement as 92+ Aeros. Putting later flags or Aero's in a <'87 is a little problematic.

What do you have?

Alan

Tampa 928s

For both my guests:
That picture is before and the hammer is for hitting myself in the head to dull the pain on this car:

Alan,

I have repaired the headlight motor it was a bad diode and relay and thanks for your help.
The issue I was referring to is with the mirrors, the original mirrors have been replaced with the areo style with two motors. I believe the 82 only had one motor with an solenoid. The P.O. owner never tested them when he purchased the car. From what I can gather the drivers side only goes one way even while changing the mirror switch from drivers to passenger. The directional switch only works on two directions both moving it in one direction if that makes sense. I can activate the mirror motors with a power supply and by reversing polarity they work in all directions. I don't believe the owner ever rewired the directional switch to work with th new mirrors.

Alan

Yes everthing you said makes sense. The drivers door mirror switches you have are incapable of controlling both motors. You have 2 options - change all the wiring for the S4 config = probably raid the junkyard for the whole door loom setup and adapt to the wiring you have to the passenger door (should be OK to reuse this).

Or keep the switches you have and add an SPDT relay in the drivers door next to the direction adjustment switch and change around a few wires. The relay will go in place of the solenoids and will switch between the U/D & L/R planes. You could put one in each door basically at the mirror end or a single one at the switch and a little more wire swapping, (I would do the latter).

From the wiring diagram its impossible for me tell which of the up/down left/right is which polarity at the motor - however that only effects the final connections in the mirror so is easily swapped after the other changes are complete.

For the heater element the loom Brown & Grey/Green are used connected to the 2 brown wires on the Aero's - order doesn't matter.

On the drivers mirror the yellow wire is mirror motor connection L#1
On the passenger mirror the black wire is mirror connection R#1

On the mirror direction adjustment switch the pin 6 connection (white wires)*1 should now go only to the 86 connection of the new relay - the 85 connection of the relay should be spliced to ground (brown wire on pin 2 of the adj swicth). The 30 connection of the relay should be the only connection to pin 5 of the Adj. switch (black wires)*2.

The 87a connection of the relay should go to the remaining 2 white wires (from *1) and the 87 connection should go to the remaining 2 black wires (from *2).

The white wires at both left/right mirrors are motor connection #2
The black wires at both left/right mirrors are motor connection #3

The 4 motor wires from each Aero mirror should be as follows:
Black & Red from one motor and Blue & White from the other

The configuration you need will have 2 mirror wires joined together from the 2 motors each side to create 3 connections (each side is the same) finish one first - then the other side wil be easy.

So the motor link options are:

Black & Blue linked - Red & White individual
Red & White linked - Black & Blue individual
Black & White linked - Red & Blue individual
Red & Blue linked - Black & White individual

It is not clear which one you need - but it will be one of these to get the relative movements correct. If you figure out which motor is which plane it will be easy to see what needs to be swapped based on what position movements are wrong.

These motor connections can then be paired up with motor connections #1, #2 & #3. #1 is what creates the L/R switch so it must always be the dual pair connection in every case - or both mirrors will move at the same time for some direction movements.

I think this should work OK. It is generic for any early flag to late flag/Aero update install. Use a standard SPDT relay and socket with pigtails.

When you figure out what needed to be connected to what for final correct operation please post it back here.

Alan