Bill51sdr

+1 Just buy new ones as you are going to be doing an intake R&R sometime soon anyway.

docmirror

I am notoriously cheap. I still replaced my two knock sensors with new ones. I have crusty old ones that still work, but are - crusty.

dr bob

+2

Andre Hedrick

Well if you turn it inside out you are still getting some right?

Bill51sdr

As I recall, the knock sensors use shielded wire to keep out spurrious signals. It is very difficult to "just splice in" another wire/connector, and a high probability that it will not work.

AO

Thanks for piping in guys... I thought for a moment that the world was about to end and I was the only voice of reason. Now the world can keep spinning.

Andy-
If you're desperate (and it appears that you are...), just shove the little tabs into the harness-side connector and tape it up while you await your new knock sensors. It should be fire for a little while. Don't bother trying to solder another connector on there as you may actually destroy what you have there (assuming it still works).

Mongo

Intake Manifold Service time.


I'm going to bite the bullet and get the parts Friday. Until the car is fixed I got the okay to use the lady's Mom's car for work... yech

This will be my first intake service. If anyone is interested in lending a hand, let me know and I'll stockpile beer as well as 928 parts.

AO

I was going to say something about that, but wasn't 100% sure on that.

Mako 928

Of course replace the knock sensor. However you can replace the plug end W/ out splicing by the method I have described before. This is the only way for items such as the TPS for 85' 86'. Replace the TPS but the plug/harnes from the TPS to the wiring harnes at the front is NLA.
You are only replacing the plastic housing that connects to the harnes. All wires inside the old plug are still in good shape.
Of course inspect the wires for any breaks, but they are protected by the plug and should be fine. Has worked for me.

Mongo

Title change. Now it's official that I'm pulling this intake in 2 weeks.

Ford 19 lb fuel injectors are on the way from Summit! I need to get the seal kit from Roger for these bad boys. I'm going for the whole enchilada!

worf928

Ok..... I'm confused.... Why exactly can the car not be used with the fubar'd knock sensor connector? A dead knock sensor doesn't make the car not start or cause it to spit fire or shoot rods out the bottom. In fact if that's the only problem then the car should run fine but will be missing some power.

Why is the world coming to an end with one bad knock sensor?

Mongo

It's not. The idle control valve is hanging on its last thread too. It's just time to get this fixed right once and for all and not buy stock in WD40.

Mongo

I'm going to start taking more things apart tonight. Are there any suggestions on how to remove the fuel rails? I hear that these can be a PITA and if I'm not careful, break more connectors, the ones on the injectors this time.

StratfordShark

This is what I did on 88 S4, got the fuel rails out without problems, and I think of myself as far from a natural mechanic (I rely a lot on help from people here, and assidiously reading up all the excellent Pirtle, Chamberland, O'Rourke etc write-ups):

- used the Bosch tool to remove injector connectors first (rails still bolted in at this point, so that the tool could pull on tight connections)

- removed clips holding injectors to top of rail (in other words I would leave injectors in manifold after removing rails, but NB you should replace injectors after attaching them to rails. Like you I bought new Ford injectors from Summit)

- using counterholds at union nuts, undo connections at rear of rails to pressure regulator and damper, at front LHS damper, and to flexible fuel hose front RHS)

- undid nuts bolting the fuel rails down

- used a short pry bar to lever a little at a time at each end of rail and centre, placing thick cloth under pry bar to avoid damaging paint on manifold

I may have forgotten a step/steps, but these are the key features of the procedure I followed. The rails came out fine. Main thing is to counterhold to avoid damaging fuel pipe/rail.

Bill51sdr

Use the same care and method you did when you rebuilt the 944 engine. You do not need special tools to remove the FI connectors.