Maf relocation pixx
#31
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This is my second attempt to mock up an intake if you notice the unit has an port to place the Bov outlet into the intake stream. It seems like I would need to remove my Passenger tow hook to make this happen and not sure if thats a good idea. any feed back would be helpful.
#32
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Hello Mark did you get a radiator in it yet?
Can you run any test before you make any discussion to remove anything?(tow hook)
What do you mean by "TB"
I think your new set up is going to eliminate your issue with turbulence, take it for a ride and reevaluate from there. Small steps![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regards
Matt
Can you run any test before you make any discussion to remove anything?(tow hook)
What do you mean by "TB"
I think your new set up is going to eliminate your issue with turbulence, take it for a ride and reevaluate from there. Small steps
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Regards
Matt
#33
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Roger shipped me a radiator before he went to England " I hope".
I got the Maf set up in and piped and am waiting on my Maf pigtail and dead replacement Maf from John S. I worked around the tow hook issue, for now till I test it I may leave it this way, but a little belly pan cutting is in my future.
I will have to pipe the Bov air into the intake plenum behind the Maf to stop any spikes on the A/F when off throttle caused by change in air density. To do this I will also have to tap into the S/C pressure line to relocate the Bov. This is a lot of work but hopefully this will put the surging issues to bed.
Now I need to pick out a good fan so the car does not keep over heating in traffic.
I got the Maf set up in and piped and am waiting on my Maf pigtail and dead replacement Maf from John S. I worked around the tow hook issue, for now till I test it I may leave it this way, but a little belly pan cutting is in my future.
I will have to pipe the Bov air into the intake plenum behind the Maf to stop any spikes on the A/F when off throttle caused by change in air density. To do this I will also have to tap into the S/C pressure line to relocate the Bov. This is a lot of work but hopefully this will put the surging issues to bed.
Now I need to pick out a good fan so the car does not keep over heating in traffic.
#35
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Filter response:
I spoke to Kevin at Inj labs about this filter, they use this on some of those little Dodge rally something or other cars. It flows from the top and sides and should allow enough air flow. I have some fitments issues and for now it will provide a way to test and will keep my eye open for something a little larger.
Now for my over heating issue, that has caused me a bigger problem and a lot of money to find out why it is doing that. Parts should be in this week along with my maxed credit card bill.
I spoke to Kevin at Inj labs about this filter, they use this on some of those little Dodge rally something or other cars. It flows from the top and sides and should allow enough air flow. I have some fitments issues and for now it will provide a way to test and will keep my eye open for something a little larger.
Now for my over heating issue, that has caused me a bigger problem and a lot of money to find out why it is doing that. Parts should be in this week along with my maxed credit card bill.
#36
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Any one used this fan as a pusher?
New chrome 16" ZIRGO high performance BLU cooling fan. Hi torque 12 Volt Electric motor with sealed ball bearings & balanced black curved blades. Blades are reversible to be used as a pusher or puller, moving 3000 CFM. Demensions: 16 3/4" wide X 15 3/4" high X 3 1/2" These Fans are a true space saver with its thin design. PART # ZFBC16S
New chrome 16" ZIRGO high performance BLU cooling fan. Hi torque 12 Volt Electric motor with sealed ball bearings & balanced black curved blades. Blades are reversible to be used as a pusher or puller, moving 3000 CFM. Demensions: 16 3/4" wide X 15 3/4" high X 3 1/2" These Fans are a true space saver with its thin design. PART # ZFBC16S
#37
Nordschleife Master
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I personally would not go with a Zirgo fan,
I have heard alot of failures with them.
I have had (personally) and heard nothing but good things about Spal fans.
I have two of thiers which are 3000CFM, only one on the car atm.
I have heard alot of failures with them.
I have had (personally) and heard nothing but good things about Spal fans.
I have two of thiers which are 3000CFM, only one on the car atm.
#38
Nordschleife Master
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As well, have you considered just using a piggyback system to richen that range just slightly?
Would be alot cheaper and easier than messing about with all these new fancy intake pieces
Would be alot cheaper and easier than messing about with all these new fancy intake pieces
#39
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Lizard,
Which Spal model did you use I am looking at the 30102048 16" it ends up at 16.3 " which maybe a little tall.
Are you talking about a duel inlet, this is just to see if I can get the surging to stop and may go on from there. Since it's in and I had the piping seems to be a good direction to take at this time.
Which Spal model did you use I am looking at the 30102048 16" it ends up at 16.3 " which maybe a little tall.
Are you talking about a duel inlet, this is just to see if I can get the surging to stop and may go on from there. Since it's in and I had the piping seems to be a good direction to take at this time.
#40
Nordschleife Master
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I am not sure exactly what models I have, I am not at home or even close to be able to look at the packaging or fan.
I got them about 1.5-2 years ago, they have a sealed motor and were rated at 3000 CFM 16"s
I have one mounted in place of the factory booster fan as a pusher.
Works very well unless I am really really pushing it, then the car gets really hot, but have yet to overheat. That is NA though
As to the intake, I was saying leave it how you had it origonally, and the BOV should be on the SC side of the MAF.
What I was suggesting is a piggyback system, I believe one is the SMT-6 Basically it tags into the injecotr lines and you can manipulate the injector pulses to add or remove fueling at certain points in the rane.
I know ATB had one on his car for awhile.
Basically it is a cheater system, not full standalone, but gives you a good range of adjustability.
I got them about 1.5-2 years ago, they have a sealed motor and were rated at 3000 CFM 16"s
I have one mounted in place of the factory booster fan as a pusher.
Works very well unless I am really really pushing it, then the car gets really hot, but have yet to overheat. That is NA though
As to the intake, I was saying leave it how you had it origonally, and the BOV should be on the SC side of the MAF.
What I was suggesting is a piggyback system, I believe one is the SMT-6 Basically it tags into the injecotr lines and you can manipulate the injector pulses to add or remove fueling at certain points in the rane.
I know ATB had one on his car for awhile.
Basically it is a cheater system, not full standalone, but gives you a good range of adjustability.
#41
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Hi Tampa,
Just got back from a few days off with the family so I am just catching up……
BOV
You could keep the BOV where you have it now and install a hose on the BOV outlet back into the side of the aluminum air box on the sc. Having the MAF before the sc requires you to circulate the air that comes out of the sc back into the inlet of the sc when it is not being consumed by the engine. This way you will not be blowing metered air out into the atmosphere. I’m not sure how far away the MAF would have to be from the inlet of the sc so you do not get turbulent air blowing around in the MAF but by locating the MAF before the sc the BOV needs to be plumbed back into the sc inlet to work properly. You might be able to mount the MAF right on the inlet to the aluminum air box and use all the intake plumbing you already have in place. BTW, I have not ever tried this myself but I do not see why it would not work.
Front fan
I always thought the front fan on the earlier cars was a pretty good one but I may be wrong on that. I have 16 inch pusher fans in stock that I use on the Stage 3 cars….. I would be happy to send you one to try out.
Just got back from a few days off with the family so I am just catching up……
BOV
You could keep the BOV where you have it now and install a hose on the BOV outlet back into the side of the aluminum air box on the sc. Having the MAF before the sc requires you to circulate the air that comes out of the sc back into the inlet of the sc when it is not being consumed by the engine. This way you will not be blowing metered air out into the atmosphere. I’m not sure how far away the MAF would have to be from the inlet of the sc so you do not get turbulent air blowing around in the MAF but by locating the MAF before the sc the BOV needs to be plumbed back into the sc inlet to work properly. You might be able to mount the MAF right on the inlet to the aluminum air box and use all the intake plumbing you already have in place. BTW, I have not ever tried this myself but I do not see why it would not work.
Front fan
I always thought the front fan on the earlier cars was a pretty good one but I may be wrong on that. I have 16 inch pusher fans in stock that I use on the Stage 3 cars….. I would be happy to send you one to try out.
Last edited by Tim Murphy; 07-06-2008 at 08:18 PM.
#42
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Any one used this fan as a pusher?
New chrome 16" ZIRGO high performance BLU cooling fan. Hi torque 12 Volt Electric motor with sealed ball bearings & balanced black curved blades. Blades are reversible to be used as a pusher or puller, moving 3000 CFM. Demensions: 16 3/4" wide X 15 3/4" high X 3 1/2" These Fans are a true space saver with its thin design. PART # ZFBC16S
New chrome 16" ZIRGO high performance BLU cooling fan. Hi torque 12 Volt Electric motor with sealed ball bearings & balanced black curved blades. Blades are reversible to be used as a pusher or puller, moving 3000 CFM. Demensions: 16 3/4" wide X 15 3/4" high X 3 1/2" These Fans are a true space saver with its thin design. PART # ZFBC16S
#43
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For a pull through from my research it is suggested that the Bov be as close to the T/B as possible. I have a dummy Maf that I was planning to tap with a 1" fitting and connect the Bov inlet there, I am using an upgraded larger Bov for this.
The return will go in near the S/C inlet 12" or more from the now relocated Maf . I plan to block off the present Bov location.
If I use your suggestion is that location as good as mine and it sounds like I need to tap the air box or can I use a joiner on the S/C intake. For testing I rather not due any permanent conversions, does this sound feasible?
The return will go in near the S/C inlet 12" or more from the now relocated Maf . I plan to block off the present Bov location.
If I use your suggestion is that location as good as mine and it sounds like I need to tap the air box or can I use a joiner on the S/C intake. For testing I rather not due any permanent conversions, does this sound feasible?
#44
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Everything you said sounds like you are on the right path.
If you punched a hole in the side of the air box you could easily epoxy a patch over it if things did not work out as planned. I suggest whatever is easiest for you to do at this point.
Do you need me to send you a fan?
If you punched a hole in the side of the air box you could easily epoxy a patch over it if things did not work out as planned. I suggest whatever is easiest for you to do at this point.
Do you need me to send you a fan?