nsantolick

While I'm at it, although I have older heavy steel ramps, does anyone really trust the more common PLASTIC ramps they sell now???

nsantolick

Anyone out there install automatic air jacks IN their cars, like you see on whatever type racing??? (don't watch much of it so I can't remember - F1 I thought maybe?)

Hilton

Hi Nick,

Few things:

Ramps are a lot safer than jackstands. I used ramps for my TBWP job with no space issues (not much time under the car for this job).

Jacking techniques vary.. easiest way I found to put the car up on stands was to:

1. Jack using the rear jacking points, and place a stand under the front jack point (front lifts too when you jack from the rear).
2. Then jack opposite side of the car also using the rear, so that both fronts are up on stands.
3. Lastly, jack using the rear cross member to lift the back and put stands under both rear points at once.

I found this much easier than the 3-legged wobble that some people do using opposite corners. I since upgraded to Liftbars and now jacking the car up and makign it stable is a breeze. I still use ramps and other supports for additional safety once the car is up.

Lastly, get hold of a copy of John Kelly's Timing Belt manual for 32V cars.. step by step guide that walks you through it all. I'd never done a timing belt on any car before.. heck, I did my first oil change ever in the last 18 months, and the John Kelly manual helped a lot.. easily worth the $

If you're doing the job yourself, replace at least all these:

Timing Belt
Water Pump and WP Gasket
Tensioner Roller
Idler Roller (can replace just the bearing, depending on wear)
Tensioner rebuild bits (boot, clamp, o-ring, gasket etc.)
Coolant Thermostat, O-ring and inner rubberized-steel O-ring
Accessory belts (AC/PS/Alternator)

Might also need to replace these if they show wear:

Dist. Caps & Rotors
Cam gears x2
Oil Pump Gear
Crank gear
Front main seal
Oil pump seal

Now, stop spending so much time reading, and order parts!

SharkSkin

After the initial stretch and re-tension, yes. Don't beat on it too hard until you get the belt re-tensioned.

Also, do NOT lift on any suspension arms, front crossmember, or "frame rails". Use the lift points(center of the rear crossmember is OK) or you will be sorry:

SharkSkin

Also worth noting, most if not all of the 928 vendors will sell you all of the stuff that you "might" need for a TB job then allow you to return whatever parts you don't need. Very simple and painless.

rixter

what's a ramp?

nsantolick

It just HAD to be a white one, dammit... Okay, okay. Where do I order one? lol

David L. Lutz

Just wondering, are you going to do the work yourself?

WICruiser

Given your work surface use ramps under each wheel using the jacking sequence noted by Xlot above.

If you are at all concerned about the condition of the ramps or the surface supporting them put additional solid supports under the 4 jack points to act as a secondary support if anything starts to sink or move.

The main things you need to do under the car are to release the flex plate clamp and check crank end play. Some of the timing belt related parts are easier to access from the bottom but for that you only need to have the front of the car in the air so the back can be on solid ground.

nsantolick

Yep, doing it myself. I hoped to find someone, but more out of laziness than incompetence, I hope... : )

Glad to hear that the ramps are safest. I never thought much beyond them until that Mercedes crack showed in the trailing arm, but adding backup supports definitely makes sense... That, I never did actually...




Nick - Hazleton, Pennsylvania


BTW - With 77,000 miles, isn't it highly unlikely that the gears are likely to be worn, or does that have more to do with previous timing belt health??? Not sure if it's worth ordering everything, with the intention of returns. I don't mind, but if it IS mileage related, shouldn't I be good, most likely?

worf928

Yes and no. If the belt has been overly-tight for most of the car's life then you will need new cam sprockets and the oil pump sprocket. If the belt has not been over-tight then you may not need them. Use the search feature - there are plenty of threads showing pictures of too-worn sprockets. You can look at all of the sprockets once you have removed both outboard belt covers.

Don't worry about ordering everything you will need in advance. Get used to the fact that when you undertake an extensive task that you will find something else to fix for which you didn't order the part.

If I bought a(nother) 928 and didn't have records detailing the parts replaced at the last belt service, I'd rebuild the tensioner, replace the pivot bolt bushings, replace the waterpump and I would replace everything that the belt touches. The only exception would be the sprockets if they are still in good condition.

Lastly, expect that you may need to replace the Hall sensor. The harness to that sensor gets disturbed during the belt removal process and that will likely finish-off the sensor's connector to the harness.

SharkSkin

Good points, Dave. I wasn't thinking of sprockets, that can get to be $$$. I was thinking more of just gathering up all of the other moving parts.

nsantolick

Why isn't everyone replacing the oil pump as preventative maintenance too? I've read a few stories of belts going amuck after oil pumps have siezed.




Nick - Hazleton, Pennsylvania

David L. Lutz

My gears were worn bad at 85,000, due to too tight a belt in the past. Replace all gears. If your gears look like this, you may want to replace them.





When I checked with a stright edge across the top of the tooth, I saw exactly how much the tooth had worn down.

Mrmerlin

oil pumps usually seize up after they have been rebuilt ( note that there are 2 dimples in the gears these must face the same side) the outer gear has a small angle cut into its edge this must face the inside of the pump body( or towards the front of the car once its installed) the other edge of the outer gear is square and must face the block

Use STP oil treatment on the gears so they will provide enough suck to draw the oil out of the pan on startup