SeanR

Quick, simple and cheap.

I like.

Giovanni

That is a great "temporary" fix until the unfortunate day comes that the car really needs to go to the bodyshop. I guess the rubber rub delete can only be done to cars with factory paint job otherwise it won't have a perfect match when removed?

SharkSkin

Nice work! 99% of the results for <1% of the cost!

PorKen

Oops. I meant 'dikes'. "The night in which all cows are black."

It looks so good without the rubstrips, and I'm amazed how perfect the body and paint looks (probably because of the strips!). I keep looking out the window at the boo'te'ful curves.

The body & paint is in great shape, so I would hate to repaint it just to remove the holes, right now. I may have the front bumper cover repainted, though. The rubber blocks which space out the plate stained nice squares all the way through the paint. I'd delete the headlight squirters too.

All the (cheap) repaints I've seen have painted around the rub strips! If you have a clearcoat, it may be a problem, too, if the paint has been stained by the double-side tape.

F451

I was up half the night thinking this through. The the other half was spent thinking about what kind of dirt bike I want and how to set it up with aftermarket goodies - but I digress.

Ok, so here is my sequential approach to the rub strip delete process - for those on the cheap (me).

1. Do the Porken Rub Strip delete. Drive around for a bit and bask in the glory.

Then into unchartered waters - how to fill the holes and make it look decent without spending a lot of money (since I'm not an autobody guy):

2. Find suitable metal bits to fill up the holes. Adhere them in some fashion to the inside body panels, apply appropriate body filler, continue through body work and apply touch up paint as necessary. Bask in glory.

Now, how to fill the holes and adhere whatever the filler is?

I was wondering if I could contour some small sheet metal pieces to match the body panel curves, and somehow get the metal inside the body panel. Then use some type of epoxy or Quick Steel type product to afix it.

Then do the body/paint/finish work.

I'm looking for a way to avoid welding anything to the body panels, say from the inside. I'd like to keep the impact to the existing panels and paint to a minimum.

Ideas? Success stories?

C'mon, I know someone must have already done this with outstanding results.

928ntslow

Well I think it looks incomplete. You need to finish it off with these to fill in the holes...

No_Substitute

I joined this board to learn about my car, but dykes and spikes are frosting on the cake.

Thanks to all for sharing your 928 wisdom, and the side chuckles.

PorKen

Bill51sdr

The problem I have heard regarding using filler putty on the aluminum is the differences in the two material's hardness, i.e., when you sand the filled area, you usually end up removing a lot more aluminum than filler. This is not a pretty sight once painted. You may want to wait to do this properly to avoid any regrets.

PorKen

They're not hole plugs...they're speed bumps!

Tony

I wonder if you could use some foil tape that was painted to match. It would be flat, flush and the same color. Great job ken. True I'd view it as a temp solution either way but it looks fine at 10-10 ... 10 feet 10 mph

Of the one area i wish Porsche would of cut corners on is the darn rubstrips. WHY did they have to put holes in perfectly good sheetmetal? I mean it must have cost more to do obviously. Heck they could have used the same industrial glue they use on the damn carpets to stick them on.....ANYTHING but holes and a fastener

PorKen

Hmmmn... what about a line of equally spaced squishy dots as a ding line?

ADD (Anti-Ding Dots™)

D² (DingDots™)

aggravation

Just tell people it's braille for 'Back away from the curb!'

PorKen

Contrasting black might be interesting looking...



Or paint them to match.

Tony

...or the googlyy eyeballs you can get at craft stores