Rear Caliper Refurbish ('84) with pics
#16
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Dwayne-
Just when I think you can't outdo yourself, you out-do yourself. Fantastic writeup! You've got a real gift for this, there ought to be some sort of business model in this for you......
I'm intrigued by the acid dip on the rotor dust shields. When I had my rears off, I scrubbed mine with a nylon brush and simple green, which did not budge most of the gunk on them. It wasn't clear to me whether they were originally blacked out or were silver painted (can't imagine they'd have left them raw metal (aluminum?)) On the off chance these cars become collectable someday, knowing what the original finish on these suspension bits is going to be important.
So what's your protocol for acid dipping? I've got a bunch of Nalgene tubs and plenty of access to acids and neutralizer, I just have no idea what strength of what type of acid, how to monitor progress, and whether you need to worry about overdoing it and pitting the metal....
Just when I think you can't outdo yourself, you out-do yourself. Fantastic writeup! You've got a real gift for this, there ought to be some sort of business model in this for you......
I'm intrigued by the acid dip on the rotor dust shields. When I had my rears off, I scrubbed mine with a nylon brush and simple green, which did not budge most of the gunk on them. It wasn't clear to me whether they were originally blacked out or were silver painted (can't imagine they'd have left them raw metal (aluminum?)) On the off chance these cars become collectable someday, knowing what the original finish on these suspension bits is going to be important.
So what's your protocol for acid dipping? I've got a bunch of Nalgene tubs and plenty of access to acids and neutralizer, I just have no idea what strength of what type of acid, how to monitor progress, and whether you need to worry about overdoing it and pitting the metal....
#17
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Memories...I did that same job a few months ago, just not to the concours-extent that you did! One thing I might mention is using compressed air to push out the piston. I left the calipers assembled when I did that, and used a block of wood to stop the piston. With the high pressure involved (one of mine was really stuck) keeping the frame is a nice guard when that thing slams out of there.
#19
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Bravo!
#22
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THANK YOU!!!
This is one of the best write-ups I have ever seen - and I am not only talking on Rennlist. Thank you for taking your time preserving every step with photos and instructions. I have this job ahead of me in the near future on my '81.
So when can we expect the write up on the fronts???![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Just kidding - maybe I give it a shot when I am doing them, however, I doubt it will come even close to this thread.
Thanks again,
Marcus.
This is one of the best write-ups I have ever seen - and I am not only talking on Rennlist. Thank you for taking your time preserving every step with photos and instructions. I have this job ahead of me in the near future on my '81.
So when can we expect the write up on the fronts???
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Just kidding - maybe I give it a shot when I am doing them, however, I doubt it will come even close to this thread.
Thanks again,
Marcus.
#23
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THANKS for all the great comments and feedback, everyone! I've had a great time working on this car and really enjoyed learning along the way.
My wife and I took both the sharks out for our favorite run late this afternoon - I'm in the lead and she's right behind. I noticed a little vibration at triple digits so slowed down pulled over and checked temp of wheels. One of the rear (driver's side) was hot. Drove conservatively home and checked the wheel. Sure enough, the emergency brake shoes were just a little tight. I backed them off a few notches (of the adjusting wheel) and spun the wheel - much better. Took it for another speed run. PERFECT - barely warm now. Please make sure the emergency brake pads are not too snug - wheels should spin (off the ground) with no noticeable resistance (pulsing). I thought I caught this on reassembly but must have missed it!
THANKS for reading!
My wife and I took both the sharks out for our favorite run late this afternoon - I'm in the lead and she's right behind. I noticed a little vibration at triple digits so slowed down pulled over and checked temp of wheels. One of the rear (driver's side) was hot. Drove conservatively home and checked the wheel. Sure enough, the emergency brake shoes were just a little tight. I backed them off a few notches (of the adjusting wheel) and spun the wheel - much better. Took it for another speed run. PERFECT - barely warm now. Please make sure the emergency brake pads are not too snug - wheels should spin (off the ground) with no noticeable resistance (pulsing). I thought I caught this on reassembly but must have missed it!
THANKS for reading!
#24
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Dwayne-
Just when I think you can't outdo yourself, you out-do yourself. Fantastic writeup! You've got a real gift for this, there ought to be some sort of business model in this for you......
I'm intrigued by the acid dip on the rotor dust shields. When I had my rears off, I scrubbed mine with a nylon brush and simple green, which did not budge most of the gunk on them. It wasn't clear to me whether they were originally blacked out or were silver painted (can't imagine they'd have left them raw metal (aluminum?)) On the off chance these cars become collectable someday, knowing what the original finish on these suspension bits is going to be important.
So what's your protocol for acid dipping? I've got a bunch of Nalgene tubs and plenty of access to acids and neutralizer, I just have no idea what strength of what type of acid, how to monitor progress, and whether you need to worry about overdoing it and pitting the metal....
Just when I think you can't outdo yourself, you out-do yourself. Fantastic writeup! You've got a real gift for this, there ought to be some sort of business model in this for you......
I'm intrigued by the acid dip on the rotor dust shields. When I had my rears off, I scrubbed mine with a nylon brush and simple green, which did not budge most of the gunk on them. It wasn't clear to me whether they were originally blacked out or were silver painted (can't imagine they'd have left them raw metal (aluminum?)) On the off chance these cars become collectable someday, knowing what the original finish on these suspension bits is going to be important.
So what's your protocol for acid dipping? I've got a bunch of Nalgene tubs and plenty of access to acids and neutralizer, I just have no idea what strength of what type of acid, how to monitor progress, and whether you need to worry about overdoing it and pitting the metal....
Thanks for the comment!
Using the acid bath has worked great for me - I like it. I use Muriatic Acid. It's the stuff they use to clean swimming pools - really goes after mineral deposits. It won't do a thing for cleaning grease, or eating paint. I bought it to use on cleaning the face of clay bricks when I was doing brick work - does a fantastic job on concrete, clay bricks, mortar.
I use about one quart for 3 gallons of water. I put the acid bath in a 5 gallon plastic bucket or a large shallow plastic basin (for larger parts like the rotor shields). The rotor shields take about 5-10 minutes and they come out clean. Same time for the other caliper parts. Don't breath the fumes that come off and use heavy rubber gloves for handling parts - but you probably already know that. I also use it to clean rusted parts - eats the rust off too. I haven't noticed any pitting or weakening of thin metal parts (like the shields) when it's left in the bath for 5-10 minutes. After the bath, rinse with water and immediately dry. That's the process I've been using to date.
#25
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Another genius job, Dwayne!
For all of you who admire Dwayne's work and would like to have them handy for future reference, I have archived Dwayne's guides with his permission. It's a very simple webpage collection right now, but it's Dwayne's skilled words, pictures that count.
Welcome to Dwayne's Garage!
For all of you who admire Dwayne's work and would like to have them handy for future reference, I have archived Dwayne's guides with his permission. It's a very simple webpage collection right now, but it's Dwayne's skilled words, pictures that count.
Welcome to Dwayne's Garage!
#28
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Another genius job, Dwayne!
For all of you who admire Dwayne's work and would like to have them handy for future reference, I have archived Dwayne's guides with his permission. It's a very simple webpage collection right now, but it's Dwayne's skilled words, pictures that count.
Welcome to Dwayne's Garage!
For all of you who admire Dwayne's work and would like to have them handy for future reference, I have archived Dwayne's guides with his permission. It's a very simple webpage collection right now, but it's Dwayne's skilled words, pictures that count.
Welcome to Dwayne's Garage!
WOW, you really posted those pics on the site FAST! THANKS for taking time out of your busy schedule to post these so others can find them easily and use them!
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Thanks again to all for the comments!
#29
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Dwayne: It's real easy....highlight, copy and paste the text and pictures in each of your sections together into one long Word document. Save as Webpage. Word automatically creates a folder with the photos for the Webpage document. Upload the Webpage document and the folder of photos, add a link to the homepage - Done in 10 minutes tops. I'd still do it if it took me hours. Your repair guides are worth it!