Bill Ball

That's possible as this hose normally is not pressurized. However, it will be pressurized with the new FMU in the circuit. It will have to take 75+ PSI, and all I would have to repair the hose is a hose clamp on a non-barbed fitting. I think I did the right thing under the circumstances. I would rather eliminate this hose altogether, but that is not how the Murph kit is made.

Bill Ball

H'man:

Thanks for thinking of me with the free hose offer. I got it pretty cheap from Jim. My cell no longer gets reception at home. Sorry.

I could not get this thing to budge until I cut it through and hammered the opening with a chisel. It was a little tough to see and I did not realize I had cut all the way through. I tried to widen the cut rather than make it deep, trying to avoid the threads but I went deeper than I thought.

I should mention that these Dremel reinforced fiber cut-off wheels are really great. They cut very fast and do not generate much heat.

Bill Ball

The saga continues!!

Both the original hose and the replacement leak at the center junction (see picture). Either one seals fine at the ends, even the original with the split nut. Frankly I don't understand the center joint - it swivels. I'd cut that fitting and clamp it, but I'm not confident it would stay put at 75 PSI. HELP!! I gather that joint is supposed to swivel. [EDIT: NOPE! See later posts.] Others I have seen did. It seems air-tight when I blow into the hose. Maybe that's fine w/o the FMU as there is no back-pressure in that line. In Tim's new Murph setup, it becomes a pressurized line. I believe I have this assembled correctly (AFAICS the fittings don't allow any other way), although the instructions are out of date and refer to an earlier setup. I sent a note to Tim as well.

Any ideas?

Bill Ball

Tim is overnighting me a new stock return line. I not sure I like using a hose not designed for pressure in this manner. Any alternatives that I can get in short-order? I'm under a real time-crunch.

Bill Ball

I cut the middle fitting open and removed the hose. It is clear it was not designed to swivel - it's simply a hose slipped over a rigid pipe and crimped (see next post). I've seen 3 out of 3 used hoses so far and they all swivelled at that joint. That means they are bad. If you have a used one that swivels, throw it away. Don't sell or give it to anyone.

Bill Ball

Here is the dissected hose. There is enough of a barb that I believe a hose clamp will work. I already cut off the compressed end of the hose that was there. As the hose compresses over time, the crimps fails to hold it. Any swivelling is a bad thing.

auzivision

I have this one to do tonight.

I'm hoping Kroil and heat will l do the trick.

Fingers crossed!

AO

If you have problems, just cut the hose and pressed clamp off and leave the metal piping in place. New Fuel Injection hose with fuel injection clamps will fix it.

SeanR

Or do this.

Cut the hose, thread a gear wrench on it. Very quick.