Bill Ball

I hate to give up and resort to the cutting wheel, but I can't come up with another good option at this point. I'm worried that my counterhold wrench is rounding the soft fitting and it will twist and snap the cooler line. That's what it feels like.

New fuel line ($40) ordered. Dremel with cutting wheel ready to go. Fire extinguisher within reach.

AO

Try soaking it with kroil. That stuff is amazing.

Also, if your extinguisher is a the dry chemical type, keep a bucket of water handy and try that in case of fire first, then use the extinguisher as a last resort. That dry chemical stuff is nasty stuff and a pain to clean up.

brianrheffron

Search on the net for Ambersil Rust Flash. This is an aerosol penetrating oil combined with a refrigerant. I claims to shock freeze the siezed joint down to -40 which produces micro cracks in the rust allowing the oil to penetrate rapidly. Applying heat to a joint is really just the same. The change in temperature causes expansion of one component of the joint hopefully cracking the corrosion. Not tried it myself but it sounds totally sensible in theory and much safer than heat around fuel connection.
I will be using it soon to free corroded connections in the fuel line under the rear wheel arch and if it is a success I will write it up for the forum.

Larry928GTS

I've never really heard anything about using freezing to help loosen things, but have wondered how well it would work. With the freezing, you're changing the temperature less than you could by heating, but it might be enough, especially if it's something that it might not be safe to use heat on. Maybe something like this stuff?

www.buypoopfreeze.com

AO

Larry-
The problem with freezing that I have is that it makes metal contract. I believe this would cause the joint to become tighter in most cases. Just my $9.28

kary4th

I had the same thing happen to me at the hose/line connection point immediately after the fuel filter. The fuel line did break. Even after that, the two pieces would not come apart. Not even when using a vise and pipe wrench. I've never seen anything like it.

Larry928GTS

Freezing does make the metal contract, but the idea is that the corrosion breaks loose from the contraction. I just did a search out of curiosity and found that there's some stuff out there for loosening stuck bolts using freezing.

www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?title=1343601440

Incendier

Works well - I was also skeptical at first. We use this...

http://www.wurthredlabel.com/product...=18710&cat=249

AO

Larry, you seem like a bright guy. Just becasue it's available, doesn't mean it works. Remember Prolong, Slick50, ZMax... oh wait, you can still get ZMax... maybe you shoudl try some? It will make your car run better than new due to its micro-lubricating ability to soak into the metal parts and reduce friction... guaranteed* or your money back!















*Will refund the full price of ZMax. The cost of your toast engine is, however, on you.

Bill Ball

Too late for any other tricks - I cut it with the Dremel. I was careful but I was obviously not careful enough and I managed to cut into the threads pretty badly. ARGH! In theory the seal is at the ball end of the hose and the threads should not matter if it can seal. If not, I'm in deep doo-doo. The cooler head is expensive and not generally available. What do you think? Am I screwed or not? I think it's OK. It HAS to be.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Bill you need to call me ......

Leon Speed

it just might leak, hope you're ok

Tony

oooh...i see a mountain out of a mole hill. I hope that seals back up! The sealing surface isnt the threads, so you "should" be ok.

Bill Ball

Guys, I'm in search of the return fuel line PN 928 110 359 08. I need it overnight. Thought I had one coming, but it ended up being out of stock.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Bill I have a used one...just not a new one.