aggravation

I'm about to do the Plastigauge check using the old nuts and then button it up with new nuts. I checked to see if I have the right socket and my 12 point 14mm is kind of loose. Is this normal...maybe a standard size would fit tighter?

Also, doing this job under the car, up on Porken lift bars and 6 ton jackstands relatively high.
I gathered as much info from searching the forums as I could:
Be really careful to keep things clean, protect crank from studs with tubing, clean oil off before fastening, lube bearing surface but not rear surface...

How about the 'lube the nuts' debate? Is there a consensus on this one?
If I lube should I use the assembly lube? That's what I planned to use on the bearing faces, is that right?
Are they talking about lubing the ribbed under side of the nut head but not the threads? Seems odd, lube a nut to torque it...the studs really stretch?!?

And finally, I've been using acetone to remove oil, grease and old gasket material from external surfaces on lots of my work so far, final cleaning before applying gaskets and seals etc. Can I use it on internal surfaces like the studs on the rods?

Thanks for the advice!

David L. Lutz

I just finished this job and here is the way I proceeded;

1. Only lubed the bearing faces. (not the nuts or studs) I used "Clevite77 Bearing Guard, its an assembly lubricant. Came highly recommended by a friend Mechanic.
2. Decided against using any Acetone in my engine internally. I debated this for days but just didn't want to chance flushing any into those main crank journals.
3. My socket too was a little loose but never gave me any problems. I tried a couple of others and didn't have any that would fit. Give it a go on your old nuts for the clearance check and you will see if you need a new one.

Just a note, I noticed when using the plastigage that it really affects the measurment if you let the bearing slide AT ALL on the journal when you torque down the nuts or when removing them or when you are separating the cap. Bring the cap straight off the journal. NO wiggle. Or your reading will be off.

Good luck, enjoy

mark kibort

14mm star socket, maybe you need a better one unless you can generate the torque.
no lube

RyanPerrella

14 mm 12 point socket is the one you need

are you sure you have the correct nuts? Are they the correct Porsche nuts, or someone's "better then stock" versions or something?

David L. Lutz

+1 on the nuts. IMO bearings and nuts need to be porsche.

hinchcliffe

I always notice the 12-point sockets are loose, can you use a 6-point?

hacker-pschorr

Watch the install of the oil pickup tube carefully. There have been a few people in the past where this wasn't seated 100%, this means low or no oil pressure.

My Craftsman socket fit like a glove, it was new during this job so that might have something to do with it.

I did not plastigage the bearings (I live life on the edge...) Frankly, I had no idea what to do if they were out of spec (other than order new ones) and I was in a rush. One year and multiple road trips later, all is good. Having a spare motor off to the side helped with this decision

I used loctite red on the rod nuts. I don't care what's in the WSM for this, I do not want these coming loose.

As for cleaning, I soaked the lower portion of the engine in Castrol degreaser before pulling the pan off. Once the pan was off the only area that needed to be cleaned was the pan gasket surface. Razor blade, green scotch brite pad & parts cleaner worked.

aggravation

I'm waiting on delivery of the new nuts, I just took the 14mm 12 point socket (new) and stuck it on the old nuts which are still in place at the moment to see how the fit was and there is some play...haven't tried to actually turn one yet.

I guess I'll try the removal and torque the new bearings using the old nuts with Plastigage with the socket and see how that goes.
The bearings I have are Glyco, I guess we'll see if they are too tight, my motor only has 86,500 miles on it so maybe I'll find them too tight if all I've read about this process is accurate. The lube I have is Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly lube.

As far as acetone as a cleaner, is the only concern that some might get into the main crank journals? I thought I'd just be wiping the studs down and the surface the back side of bearings sit with a cloth wet with the acetone so there would be no splash or drip action...

David L. Lutz

I don't beleive you would harm anything by just a wiping with a clean damp/wet cloth.

Please let us know how the Glyco's work out. I was going with GLyco's at first but after discussion with the supplier we changed directions.

RyanPerrella

Thats funny you mentioned this, what to do if they were out of spec, I had the same ideas and did plasti gauge the bearings and everything was good. But I wondered the same thing, I sure as hell didnt want to have to buy more bearings!

Which bearings did you end up going with? I will have to see what I used but I think there is only Glyco or OE Porsche on the rod bearings. For main bearings the Porsche ones are only $200 and would go Porsche on the mains ALWAYS! I think any other aftermarket or "OEM" bearing set for the mains are actually MORE expensive then the Porsche price.