Oil pan stud kit
#1
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Searched the archives and found some posts that suggest the oil pan stud kit from Carl potentially have some clearance issues for the studs under the cross member.
I would appreciate some input from those that have installed these to clarify if it is necessary to cut off a few mm of these.
I will be installing these in a next couple of days.
Thanks
I would appreciate some input from those that have installed these to clarify if it is necessary to cut off a few mm of these.
I will be installing these in a next couple of days.
Thanks
#2
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I installed Carl's kit. Looks like their is clearence to remove the pan in the car, (somthing I'm not planning on). I also installed new engine mounts (non-hydro). That raised the engine 1/2 inch.
Once the stud is installed, only few threads protrude beyond the nut. No need to cut stud down any more.
Carl sells proven stuff. I recommend the kit with a rubber gasket.
Tony
Once the stud is installed, only few threads protrude beyond the nut. No need to cut stud down any more.
Carl sells proven stuff. I recommend the kit with a rubber gasket.
Tony
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Okay, maybe a dumb question, BUT what is the benefit of studs over the stock bolts??? You can't torque them any higher, they decrease the clearance to remove the pan if the engine is still installed in the car, your actually adding weight (very minimal), and I have better things to spend my money on.
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I recomend the stud kit to all my customers buying the Silicone Oil Pan Gasket.
I came up with my own kit based on the use of another kit I tried.
Each of my studs has an allen head so they can be put in place seperatly and I also use loctite.
Once the pan and gasket are in place the locknuts finish the job.
The idea is to make sure they never come out again and it also makes locating the pan and gasket easier.
Get then here at Roger@928sRus.com or 817 430 2688 $49.
I came up with my own kit based on the use of another kit I tried.
Each of my studs has an allen head so they can be put in place seperatly and I also use loctite.
Once the pan and gasket are in place the locknuts finish the job.
The idea is to make sure they never come out again and it also makes locating the pan and gasket easier.
Get then here at Roger@928sRus.com or 817 430 2688 $49.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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#8
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I put this on my 89S4 and had only to trim the one stud above the starter. It was easy and did it with a small hack saw. Not one problem and this kit is a must have. I used Roger's gasket in conjunction with the stud kit.
#9
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I am in the middle of dropping the oil pan where I installed Roger's stud kit. My only issue is that the studs are a bit long when trying to use a 1/4in flex socket to get to the studs above the crossmember. In retrospect I should have trimmed the studs so there was about 1/8in of stud visible after they are torqued down.
I am going to drill out the 1/4in flex socket so the socket can reach the nut. And I will be looking for slightly deeper flex sockets.
I am going to drill out the 1/4in flex socket so the socket can reach the nut. And I will be looking for slightly deeper flex sockets.
#10
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Kevin --
Flex-head gear wrench might get in there.
There are issues around having the studs too short when you actually use a torque setting to set the nuts. Procedure includes finding the breakaway torque for th locking part of the nut, then adding the torque you want to have for clamping the gasket. To make this work, you must have a few threads completely clear of the nylon locking portion of the nut. Reused nuts and not-perfectly-clean studs will alter the breakaway torque numbers.
Next question, after the obligatory "real men pull the engine", has to do with how/why you are wrestling with nuts above the crossmember. Are you changing a leaking/torn/squished/damaged gasket you recently installed? If the replacement is a silicone gasket, I will suggest that you abandon the torque wrench for tightening, and either nut count turns on your consistently-installed studs, or use a feeler gauge between nuts and sump face to establish a consistent standard height before tensioning by counting flats..
Flex-head gear wrench might get in there.
There are issues around having the studs too short when you actually use a torque setting to set the nuts. Procedure includes finding the breakaway torque for th locking part of the nut, then adding the torque you want to have for clamping the gasket. To make this work, you must have a few threads completely clear of the nylon locking portion of the nut. Reused nuts and not-perfectly-clean studs will alter the breakaway torque numbers.
Next question, after the obligatory "real men pull the engine", has to do with how/why you are wrestling with nuts above the crossmember. Are you changing a leaking/torn/squished/damaged gasket you recently installed? If the replacement is a silicone gasket, I will suggest that you abandon the torque wrench for tightening, and either nut count turns on your consistently-installed studs, or use a feeler gauge between nuts and sump face to establish a consistent standard height before tensioning by counting flats..
#11
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Dear Dr Bob, I got the nuts of using a flex head wrench with a medium sized vice grip on the end for leverage.
I was hoping to avoid dropping the crossmember to drop the oil pan. The plan is to raise the engine with engine brace I use for motor mounts. But, in all likelihood I will drop the crossmember in the end.
I continue to believe the studs are too long and I believe I will try to find a shorter version.
I have a silicone gasket on the shelf. The cork one I installed failed. Not sure why yet.
I was hoping to avoid dropping the crossmember to drop the oil pan. The plan is to raise the engine with engine brace I use for motor mounts. But, in all likelihood I will drop the crossmember in the end.
I continue to believe the studs are too long and I believe I will try to find a shorter version.
I have a silicone gasket on the shelf. The cork one I installed failed. Not sure why yet.
#12
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Dear Dr Bob, I got the nuts of using a flex head wrench with a medium sized vice grip on the end for leverage.
I was hoping to avoid dropping the crossmember to drop the oil pan. The plan is to raise the engine with engine brace I use for motor mounts. But, in all likelihood I will drop the crossmember in the end.
I continue to believe the studs are too long and I believe I will try to find a shorter version.
I have a silicone gasket on the shelf. The cork one I installed failed. Not sure why yet.
I was hoping to avoid dropping the crossmember to drop the oil pan. The plan is to raise the engine with engine brace I use for motor mounts. But, in all likelihood I will drop the crossmember in the end.
I continue to believe the studs are too long and I believe I will try to find a shorter version.
I have a silicone gasket on the shelf. The cork one I installed failed. Not sure why yet.
#13
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#14
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I am going to pull the engine instead.