Door/Hatch locks and alarm
02-11-2002, 07:31 PM
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Door/Hatch locks and alarm
Someone help please!
The rear hatch lock (with alarm) in my "83 928S stopped working. The Porsche dealer was doing some other work and I had him replace it. He gave me the option of a non-alarm lock (cheaper, of course). We put that on. Now my driver-side locks cycle constantly and set and un-set the alarm. The dealer said that the passenger side lock motor is defective ($350 installed) and says that it has nothing to do with the hatch lock. Seems strange to me since it never did it before they changed the hatch lock.
Any ideas? Explainations? I hate to pay for something that I may not need and may not fix the problem. Thanks
Linda '83 928S
The rear hatch lock (with alarm) in my "83 928S stopped working. The Porsche dealer was doing some other work and I had him replace it. He gave me the option of a non-alarm lock (cheaper, of course). We put that on. Now my driver-side locks cycle constantly and set and un-set the alarm. The dealer said that the passenger side lock motor is defective ($350 installed) and says that it has nothing to do with the hatch lock. Seems strange to me since it never did it before they changed the hatch lock.
Any ideas? Explainations? I hate to pay for something that I may not need and may not fix the problem. Thanks
Linda '83 928S
02-11-2002, 08:09 PM
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Welcome Ms Linda.
There's several lock and alarm experts here who will be able to provide you sage advice.
I'd guess your problem was created by bringing your car to a dealer - they are notoriously ignorant on most things 928-related.
Have you verified that the door lock fuses are not blown? This could contribute to the symptoms you describe, though I'm not sure what model years had the separate fuses configuration.
If they are present on your car, you will see in-line fuse holders located in two single wires in the fuse/relay area.
There's several lock and alarm experts here who will be able to provide you sage advice.
I'd guess your problem was created by bringing your car to a dealer - they are notoriously ignorant on most things 928-related.
Have you verified that the door lock fuses are not blown? This could contribute to the symptoms you describe, though I'm not sure what model years had the separate fuses configuration.
If they are present on your car, you will see in-line fuse holders located in two single wires in the fuse/relay area.
02-11-2002, 08:22 PM
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My guess is also that the dealer did it. Just so you know you can get lock motors for about $50 at the big 3.
Maybe you can negotiate a better price than $350 and no cost at all if the motor is not the problem.
I had my 928 at the dealer about 3 times( only when I first bought it) because my interior lights kept going out. Finally someone on a message board told me about the fuses getting old. Cleaned the fuse and the problem went away.
I agree with Randy, let the experts here advise you.
Good luck.
Maybe you can negotiate a better price than $350 and no cost at all if the motor is not the problem.
I had my 928 at the dealer about 3 times( only when I first bought it) because my interior lights kept going out. Finally someone on a message board told me about the fuses getting old. Cleaned the fuse and the problem went away.
I agree with Randy, let the experts here advise you.
Good luck.
02-11-2002, 08:51 PM
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Hi Linda:
In case you are not familiar with "the big three", they are the nation's largest, and most specialized 928 parts dealers. They are very helpful and offer technical support (to some degree). Here are their website addresses:
<a href="http://www.devek.net" target="_blank">DEVEK Performance</a>
<a href="http://www.928intl.com" target="_blank">928 International</a>
<a href="http://www.928gt.com" target="_blank">928 Specialists</a>
To find a mechanic in your area who actually knows how to fix a 928, check this website:
<a href="http://www.eatel.net/~dslabat/mech.htm" target="_blank">DANA's List of 928 Mechanics</a>
Generally, if you are not sure about the implications, don't up or downgrade anything - just go with the proper replacement. These cars are so complicated, you never know what you run into when you change something. I've paid my dues over the years, and hope you will be spared from those expeirences.
Best of luck!
In case you are not familiar with "the big three", they are the nation's largest, and most specialized 928 parts dealers. They are very helpful and offer technical support (to some degree). Here are their website addresses:
<a href="http://www.devek.net" target="_blank">DEVEK Performance</a>
<a href="http://www.928intl.com" target="_blank">928 International</a>
<a href="http://www.928gt.com" target="_blank">928 Specialists</a>
To find a mechanic in your area who actually knows how to fix a 928, check this website:
<a href="http://www.eatel.net/~dslabat/mech.htm" target="_blank">DANA's List of 928 Mechanics</a>
Generally, if you are not sure about the implications, don't up or downgrade anything - just go with the proper replacement. These cars are so complicated, you never know what you run into when you change something. I've paid my dues over the years, and hope you will be spared from those expeirences.
Best of luck!
02-11-2002, 09:15 PM
#5
Linda,
What else was the dealership working on...may be related. Was there a recent stereo/CD player installation? Check your central locking fuse, location 21 , I think...
Pull the tool kit cover and check for loose wires.
If good, swap leads and try ???merde! Cancel this last one. You have the 'cheap' lock, no wires.
So....
Remove tool kit cover and see what they did with the 'old power locking' electical leads - those wires that connected to the old lock should have been taped off. I don't believe the leads should be touching each other or any metal surface.
This would be the super easy stuff to check.
Now we need a spark chaser with an alarm to jump in... JUMP IN GUY'S !!!!!
If the dealer did put a non alarm lock in a circuit/system that gets feedback from ALL of the locks and there is no longer feedback from one lock does this break the circuit and force the locks to keep resetting when you try to lock and set alarm? How can LInda jump/fool the system?
Would shorting the leads together work? Or would she have a problem unlocking due to a 'false ' (permanent)lock signal? Which, I would imagine,
set the door locks off on a recycle fit?
Ideas?
Linda, by the way, you have more HP than me and I hate you already.
Wait for one of the spark chasers to help after you check the wires. Where is the OLD lock...a temporary fix would be possible if you have it.
Later,Keep em'rolling.
John S. 82' Weissach,Auto., 'Pattycakes'
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
What else was the dealership working on...may be related. Was there a recent stereo/CD player installation? Check your central locking fuse, location 21 , I think...
Pull the tool kit cover and check for loose wires.
If good, swap leads and try ???merde! Cancel this last one. You have the 'cheap' lock, no wires.
So....
Remove tool kit cover and see what they did with the 'old power locking' electical leads - those wires that connected to the old lock should have been taped off. I don't believe the leads should be touching each other or any metal surface.
This would be the super easy stuff to check.
Now we need a spark chaser with an alarm to jump in... JUMP IN GUY'S !!!!!
If the dealer did put a non alarm lock in a circuit/system that gets feedback from ALL of the locks and there is no longer feedback from one lock does this break the circuit and force the locks to keep resetting when you try to lock and set alarm? How can LInda jump/fool the system?
Would shorting the leads together work? Or would she have a problem unlocking due to a 'false ' (permanent)lock signal? Which, I would imagine,
set the door locks off on a recycle fit?
Ideas?
Linda, by the way, you have more HP than me and I hate you already.
Wait for one of the spark chasers to help after you check the wires. Where is the OLD lock...a temporary fix would be possible if you have it.
Later,Keep em'rolling.
John S. 82' Weissach,Auto., 'Pattycakes'
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
02-13-2002, 12:46 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I am getting the car back without the repair done right now and am going to check out all of those suggestions.
I also talked with one of the suggested mechanics, and he was most helpful. He did think that the dealer was probably correct, but he thought I should check it out first.
Once again, many thanks. Hopefully my shark will soon be swimming again.
Linda
I also talked with one of the suggested mechanics, and he was most helpful. He did think that the dealer was probably correct, but he thought I should check it out first.
Once again, many thanks. Hopefully my shark will soon be swimming again.
Linda
02-13-2002, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for the follow-up Linda. It's a nice courtesy to let folks know you've seen their helpful advice.
Let us know how the DIY repair goes - lots more help is here for the asking!
Let us know how the DIY repair goes - lots more help is here for the asking!
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02-13-2002, 05:58 PM
#8
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Linda,
although you may not need it now, I'm pretty familiar with the alarm activation circuit as I just repaired mine. I'll share what I know and if it helps, great.
The alarm is turned on and off by a (SPDT) switch that mounts to the back of the key tumbler. That switch is a momentary contact and has 3 wires that I'll call "activate", "ground" & "deactivate". When you insert your LONG key into a lock and turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, the switch respectively shorts the activate or deactivate to the ground pin and releases it as soon as the key returns to center (hence momentary contact). Be careful with this as the left and right door lock switches are wired in reverse because of how you turn the key to unlock depending on what side of the car your on.... don't ask me how I know that one.
If you lock or unlock the doors without a key or with a short key, this has NO effect on the alarm turning on or off because the switches are only turned by the long key. Based on what you described, I would bet that one or more of the alarm (activate, deactivate) wires are shaking and shorting to ground somewhere. It would make sense if this was happening near the lock that was changed but it may be a loose wire in a door too.
I agree with the mechanic that replacing an alarm style lock with a non-alarm lock should pose no adverse problems to the alarm itself, BUT, those unused wires need to be adequatly protected.
although you may not need it now, I'm pretty familiar with the alarm activation circuit as I just repaired mine. I'll share what I know and if it helps, great.
The alarm is turned on and off by a (SPDT) switch that mounts to the back of the key tumbler. That switch is a momentary contact and has 3 wires that I'll call "activate", "ground" & "deactivate". When you insert your LONG key into a lock and turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, the switch respectively shorts the activate or deactivate to the ground pin and releases it as soon as the key returns to center (hence momentary contact). Be careful with this as the left and right door lock switches are wired in reverse because of how you turn the key to unlock depending on what side of the car your on.... don't ask me how I know that one.
If you lock or unlock the doors without a key or with a short key, this has NO effect on the alarm turning on or off because the switches are only turned by the long key. Based on what you described, I would bet that one or more of the alarm (activate, deactivate) wires are shaking and shorting to ground somewhere. It would make sense if this was happening near the lock that was changed but it may be a loose wire in a door too.
I agree with the mechanic that replacing an alarm style lock with a non-alarm lock should pose no adverse problems to the alarm itself, BUT, those unused wires need to be adequatly protected.
