RyanPerrella

HA HA

Oh...THAT GUY! LOL

Yeah Waco wouldn't be a bad drive, Austin is a way's though.

On the way home i got pulled over for going 73 in a 65, but just got a warning so that was good. On the way up it was another story though. I was driving behind this white dodge pickup for about 1-2 miles in traffic, then as i am watching them the driver literally turns his entire body around to look out his back window at me and the car. Apparently he never saw a porsche or something before. He looked back at my car like this (turning his shoulders to me nearly and not looking at the road) about 3-4 times then one of the jokers he was riding with threw a beer can presumeably out the window right in front of me, then some piece of cloth. I realized they were just trouble makers and immediately changed a lane and got in front of them very quickly then they proceeded to follow me going 85-90 for about 30 miles (i was surprised that pickup could go that fast) until which point they pulled up along side me and the redneck punk driver showed himself and was apparently copying my driving posture or something. He was trying rally hard to get my attention and it got to the point that i pointed to the side of the road to talk to the idiot and say WTF is up! I signaled to get off and did so and they just kept going. So i guess it solved the problem without any confrontation, which is probably the best thing but i was pissed that these ******** were acting like this and passing all sorts of cars and weaving in and out of traffic to keep up with me. When i was behind them i wasn't driving aggressively at all. I assume that because i was in what they must have thought was some really expensive car they felt they should disrespect it and throw crap out the window for no other purpose then to **** me off or damage the car somehow.

Anyway it was really agrivating for awhile until which point i got off the highway and the car died because of throttle cable issues. Thats something i am going to work on and fix 100% before i start driving the car again, its really getting annoying. Sean and i adjusted the one cable to the throttle body itself but i moved it so much and couldn't also increase the tension on the pedal cable that when i hit full throttle on the pedal i doubt the throttle opens up more then 60%. My pedal/firewall cable is frayed and broken so i need to buy a new one of those. I will post a detailed thread on this once i figure out which cable i need i see 2 part numbers for this. But i suggest other people have cables out of whack somewhat. I remember Greg Brown mentioning that he has seen allot of cars that are incorrectly adjusted that when you hit the accelerator pedal full go that it doesn't open the throttle up all the way.

I will keep everyone up to date on that.

As for the throttle cables, anyone have any idea which i need? I see 2 numbers on the PET and i assume they are maybe auto and manual? but they mount on the engine at the same place so i am not sure what the difference is.

Which would i use for a 90GT
option A: 928 423 023 08
option B: 927 423 023 05

I cant ever recall seeing a 927 number before, I thought that was odd.

soontobered84

That there would be my blue S4. The one that Sean so glowingly refers to in his post about the oil leaking. He doesn't know that is my new method for always keeping fresh oil in the engine, just leak it out on his driveway and refill it as you go.

BTW, that is me in the third picture of the second set of pictures. Seems that the camera got a lot less blurry once Angela started taking pictures. Just how many beers did Sean have before we got there?

Thanks to Sean and Angela for hosting the tech session. New Konis are the bomb, baby!

Thanks to Ryan for driving all the way up and for helping out. Great to finally meet you!

justin

Ryan, the 927 part number is for right hand drive cars.

RyanPerrella

oh really. Ok that would make sense. Maybe all the parts on that diagram are all 927 numbers come to think of it. I am sure that 927 cable is quite a bit longer and quite a bit more expensive being how few RHD cars there are.

Sounds good, can anyone now confirm that the 928 number i mentioned is in fact the correct cable that goes from the pedal through the firewall and onto the throttle bracket?

RyanPerrella

I looked at the PET and thats exactly the case Justin, THANKS, there are allot of 927 numbers on that specific page. And obviously you would know Porsche PN's and i do now recall reading awhile back on here about the 927 numbers.

I'm glad there is no difference in cables for all LHD cars as there shouldn't be. PN 928 423 023 08 is what I need.

Roger let me know if you have any used ones you can part with and what they cost whenever you have some time.

Thanks

SeanR

Got the '88 finished up and have taken the test drive. Ang and I went over to Brads to check out his new floors and it gave me a chance to see how the Eibachs/boges do and I LOVE IT. Cornering is very flat and I can already tell my weak point are the tires. Need some real sticky ones. No nose dive under heavy braking. I'm very happy. Rear feels a bit more spongy that expected, but is way more stiff than the 20 year old shocks that were there before.

I didn't get the X-pipe on but I do have it in the garage I got the wrong clamps from Roger and didn't think he needed to drive back home to get any when I can pick them up when I'm over there. Thanks so much for your help Rog.

We were unable to get Ang's '90 finished due to one brake line would not come off, going to have to cut it out from the main attachment point in the rear/center and put in a new hard line also.

Rog came by today in his new Weissack(sp) and he ended up having to do a TB job on it, for some reason the TB went completley slack on his way over. So did that in an hour or so and it runs smooth.

Ryan, great to meet you, come up anytime. Sorry to hear about the idiots you had to deal with.

Thanks everyone for coming over and lending a hand, it made a huge job much more enjoyable, looking forward to help you all out when you need it.

RyanPerrella

Yeah i was hoping to see that Weissach, Instead he made do driving 5 speed s4 of all things

Oh, i forgot to mention the SS kit will help allot. Those throws were massive. My stock GT shifter seemed a hell of allot shorter then that. Maybe thats why i wasnt completely sold on the short shifter when i installed it. But wow that will make a huge difference.

Jim M.

Darn, sorry I missed the tech session. Looks like you guys had a good time and made reasonably good progress. We got back from our cruise on Saturday late afternoon, but my mother was house sitting for us and I had committed to do some work on her car on Sunday. Oh well, next time. Ryan, I would have liked to meet you, again maybe next time. Just a few comments on the pictures:
Ed, you look way to clean to be in attendance, was the beer the only thing you were lifting that day?
Justin, you need to lay off the wine, your the one who looks fat in the pictures, not Ryan, your making Roger look down right SVELT!
John (Soon-to-be-Red) Need a patch for those knees.

the flyin' scotsman

There's guys in shorts and t-shirts..............cryin'

ROG100

Malcolm,
Come on down and become a DFW crew member.
Roger

redpathtribe

Sean and all,

Looks like you had a great time! Extra hands are always helpful... most of the time! Too bad DFW is so far from Phoenix or I may have tried to make it. I need to do this on my GT, have had Koni/hypercoils waiting to go on for a while now. Maybe need to get the AZ boys together for a work party! Anyone???

After swapping all the shocks and springs out, did you guys find any tips that made it go easier along the way? I've scoured the archives, but I'm sure after you've just done the swap a few times, some easier ways to do it start to become clear. I'm mainly talking about the fronts and removing the fender liner/or not, separating the A arms/or not, unbolting the lower A arm from the frame/or not, etc. Spring compressor looks like the loaner set I got from Autozone, did that work out OK? I imagine have air tools help, but does it make a big difference?

Anyway, thanks for more inspiration to get the job done. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

RyanPerrella

Its really pretty simple

Fronts come out from the bottom of the a-arm as soon as you can lift that upper arm just a few degree's above the level. Level being parallel to the ground, get that a arm a few degrees and the shock and spring can all come out.

Rears are generally considered easier then fronts unless you have KONI's! For some reason they were a bit of a bitch. I think the bushings are just slightly larger so there is less wiggle room to put the conical washers in.

The most time consuming part is compressing the springs and rebuilding the coil over's. A spring press or something or hydraulic spring compressor would have been cool considering we did 12 of them, but the col spring compressor works as advertised, its just boring and time consuming.

redpathtribe

Thanks Ryan,

Good to know it's "really pretty simple"! I just want to make it as simple as possible , I guess that would really mean to have Dan Warner do it, but I'd rather do it myself and spend the money saved on labor doing something else to the car... or on seat/track time

Did you separate the upper control/A arm from the steering knuckle to let the lower control arm drop out of the way? I seem to remember having to do this years ago when I helped a friend do his, but could be wrong... I do remember keeping the upper arm "level" and working the shock/coil down out the bottom.

Thanks for the tip on the Konis, something more to look forward to...

RyanPerrella

NO, the lower a-arm is completely detached and swings from its lower spindle joint. I did both fronts and rear by myself and the DFW crew looked at me funny when i said that but it can be done. So dont be afraid to do it yourself, especially if you have another car to use in the meantime. Mind you I probably took 2 days to do it in spurts, i dont really remember, but i did it on my own. But when you need to jack things up you can use a spare jack. For instance when you install the rear coil over, you need to lift the rear hub up slightly to change the geometry and create a hole large enough for the coil over to go through. Also for the rears you DO NOT need to disconnect the rear swaybay, i never did and none of the cars yesterday had the links removed.

RyanPerrella

Also some points that i learned from my experience and actually still need to fix are:

Make sure you correctly orient the rear shock with the suspension. The bushing is not even from side to side. On the Kino's this is not as noticeable as it is on the Bilsteins and Boge's. The rear shock is somewhat directional and is offset. Make sure you install them correctly. Unlike me. Front shocks are identical side to side so no worries there.

The 7mm wrench that could be used for the shock rod, is an inferior method for tightening the rod nut compared to a descent crescent wrench. Those nuts get torqued down to 33 ft/lbs or as Roger and i discovered till they bottom out. You really cant overtighten them, they just ....STOP. But if you have a 7mm wrench like i do, it looks like a 50% scale craftsman wrench, or like a wrench for a G I Joe toy. You cant counter the 33 ft/lbs with is and actually the 7mm wrench is too loose to hold the piston top and you WILL bugger up the thread on it. The crescent works perfectly and is large enough that you can easily counter the 33 ft/lbs.

Make sure the spring ends are actually seated in the spring seat correctly. There is a cutout in the lower and upper perch which the cut coil end will fit into. Make sure its seated against that. Dont worry about it until you decompress the springs because it can move about until the spring tension is released. So before you remove the spring compressor on reassembly, just sit the spring in its perch correctly and your set.

Also, the nylon washer deal with the slats in it, those slats are supposed to face down. I believe they are for some form of venting, but i have no clue. What happens if they arent facing down, well i have no clue, but you will notice when you disassemble the coil over that they are oriented down. So simply rinse and repeat


What else............i'm thinking............