Replacing oil cooler lines
#16
Drifting
The heat exchanger on my 90' is mounted below the radiator, so the lines might be available, while the earlier may not be. I just don't know about that.
I think the block adapters are 27mm, but two common interchangeable large wrenches for the 928 are:
1-1/16" wrench works on 27mm, and
1-1/4" wrench works on 32mm
I think the block adapters are 27mm, but two common interchangeable large wrenches for the 928 are:
1-1/16" wrench works on 27mm, and
1-1/4" wrench works on 32mm
#17
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I'm just going to order the hoses right now, I'm pretty confident that the leak is from the hose, and not from any of the upper block fittings. On second thought I might just order the crush rings just in case, can't be more than a couple bucks each right...
Thanks for the info on the wrenches sizes, that was going to be my next question. I'm going to pick up some good wrenches while I'm at it anyway, I assume that a "regular" 27mm wrench (RW) is what I need on the hose fitting side correct?
Thanks
Parker
#18
I added a remote 13 row oil cooler with braided lines to my current motor prokect, the problem is fining the correct metric fittings for the factory housing. I used the old fittings and clamped on steel braided hydrolic line, the cooler uses standard thread fittings, mounted it in front of the radiator. I have pics here somewhere...
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I've had excellent luck using "Hose Man" to make hose replacements at a fraction of the cost of buying new. I had a fuel line and an A/C line made for $38 total. They can usually use existing connections but can also use new connections (ends) if they are basic straight or basic angled connections. They did both on my hoses (one using existing connections and the other with new connections). The hose material is top quality too - infact they usually have options for hose material depending on what it's used for.
#21
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I just got done dealing with this issue. The cooler lines on my 82 where fine until I pulled the engine. Upon re installation and firing it back up, I found out the next day the lower line was leaking at the fitting/hose. I just replaced with the lines off of my 85. Buying new lines is way too much money. However, you will need to find the right place to make up new lines and use the old fittings at a reasonable price. I was quoted $200...thats way too much. If I was still in so Cal, I would have immediately gone to Hose man as they do it all and are quite reasonable like Dwayne says. I may just send my leaking lines down there to get fixed.
BTW, 32mm wrench on the fitting and 28mm on the adapter (could be a 27mm, but the 28mm is all I had and it worked well) You MUST counter hold! Also, I had to take a grinder to the 28mm wrench to allow it to fit between the cooler fitting and the cooler plate. YMMV
BTW, 32mm wrench on the fitting and 28mm on the adapter (could be a 27mm, but the 28mm is all I had and it worked well) You MUST counter hold! Also, I had to take a grinder to the 28mm wrench to allow it to fit between the cooler fitting and the cooler plate. YMMV
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#25
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I have had the same issue on my old S4. Engine was pulled and then the hoses started leaking right after. These hoses start leaking as soon as you move the fittings. On new hoses you can't really twist the metal on the hose, but as they get older you can and then it's all over...
You can get those hoses rebuilt at any hose / hydraulic shop. They cut the old metal fittings off and recrimp them to new hoses. I had mine done in SS braided hoses. (they where like $30 per hose)
REALLY IMPORTANT!!! Mark your hoses before you take them off. I had to reinstall the old ones to mark them. The new fittings will not twist to fit and the old ones will not stay put after you take them off.
You can get those hoses rebuilt at any hose / hydraulic shop. They cut the old metal fittings off and recrimp them to new hoses. I had mine done in SS braided hoses. (they where like $30 per hose)
REALLY IMPORTANT!!! Mark your hoses before you take them off. I had to reinstall the old ones to mark them. The new fittings will not twist to fit and the old ones will not stay put after you take them off.
#26
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I had a guy in Boise rebuild both my my hoses ('87) for only $20 using the metal and new everything else. It definately pays to look around here, if you find the right 'guy' it is practically the cheapest fix I can imagine on our cars.
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Harvey
#28
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+1 on what everyone else has said regarding rebuilding - likely as not the rebuilt hose will be good for at least 2000psi if not 5000psi. Said the man with a fuel hose from the pump that got rebuilt with 5000psi crimps and hose, man was that hard to bend.
When undoing the cooler hose connections to the radiator end tank you need 27mm and 32mm open ended spanners (wrenches in US?) The 32mm spanner is to counterhold the fitting and MUST not move - if it does more than a gnats then it is likley to damage the cooler fitting inside the rad. A good way to control what is going on when you undo those 20 year old connections is to use a cheap spring compressor like this
NB the spanners in the photo might be the wrong way around if you are looking from the front of the car they are the correct way around looking from the rear.
Using the spring compressor between the ring ends of the spanners allows you to put far more force squeezing the spanners together than your hands can do without any danger of some misguided hand force twisting the spannner that you are trying to hold still.
Apologies for the dark photo (Camera is being premenstrual) and I wasn't going to remove the fan shroud just to take a photo with the spanners in place actually on the oil cooler connection
Edit
PS you could do this without spring compressors - just use a spanish windlass. If you have to ask........?
HTH
When undoing the cooler hose connections to the radiator end tank you need 27mm and 32mm open ended spanners (wrenches in US?) The 32mm spanner is to counterhold the fitting and MUST not move - if it does more than a gnats then it is likley to damage the cooler fitting inside the rad. A good way to control what is going on when you undo those 20 year old connections is to use a cheap spring compressor like this
NB the spanners in the photo might be the wrong way around if you are looking from the front of the car they are the correct way around looking from the rear.
Using the spring compressor between the ring ends of the spanners allows you to put far more force squeezing the spanners together than your hands can do without any danger of some misguided hand force twisting the spannner that you are trying to hold still.
Apologies for the dark photo (Camera is being premenstrual) and I wasn't going to remove the fan shroud just to take a photo with the spanners in place actually on the oil cooler connection
Edit
PS you could do this without spring compressors - just use a spanish windlass. If you have to ask........?
HTH
Last edited by jon928se; 03-05-2008 at 05:33 AM. Reason: Photo is misleading
#29
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greg brown built a custom set w/teflon steel braided hose and used the OEM fittings. works great, looks fantastic... www.precisionmtrwerks.com or j2precisionhose.com will get you in touch...
OEM was 300.00 or so.. doc brown has a complete custom hose shop in back. any type of stuff you want, he'll make it up!!
OEM was 300.00 or so.. doc brown has a complete custom hose shop in back. any type of stuff you want, he'll make it up!!
#30
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There's a hydraulic shop in Boise over in the industrial 'zone' over near Ann Morrison park (Lusk StreeT?). Unfortunately I cannot remember the name of the place. They build all sorts of hydralic hoses and such. They did mine drop in / pick up in like 3 hours, so it was probably just thrown in the queue. Make sure you mark all the bends right in the old hoses, because once the new crimps are on there they won't move anymore. The BowWow guys referred me to them because hey do a lot of dune buggy work. Good luck!