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[QUOTE=fraggle;5181720]... Make sure you mark all the bends right in the old hoses, because once the new crimps are on there they won't move anymore. .....QUOTE]
I've not looked under the car at the hoses (still snow and cold here in Northern Idaho) so I'm not sure what you mean by "mark all the bends right in the old hoses" but maybe it'll be apparent when I crawl under there and look.
The Greg Brown tip is good too. He has a great reputation.
I bought an aircon hose crimper off ebay ($145). Figure I'll do the aircon hoses and the oil hoses. I'll take a look at the fuel hoses, but will probably have these done (chicken).
It will be obvious when you take the hoses out, there is only ONE way everything will fit together right when the crimped parts won't rotate on the rubber lines due to the angles of everything.
Wish I could have stayed in town long enough for them (BowWow) to finish my 914 motor.
Old topic but I am having trouble removing the top oil line on my '89. It would be easy to remove the bottom fitting for access but it is snug and I have read about them being loctited-in and breaking off the sealing surface from the block. I have tried heat but I am nervous about it. There is very little space to counter-hold the top fitting. Anyone have a tool recommendation?
Old topic but I am having trouble removing the top oil line on my '89. It would be easy to remove the bottom fitting for access but it is snug and I have read about them being loctited-in and breaking off the sealing surface from the block. I have tried heat but I am nervous about it. There is very little space to counter-hold the top fitting. Anyone have a tool recommendation?
I had the same problem counter-holding the top fitting. Channel Locks and every other tool I had had too much of a radius to fit between the two fittings. Finally found these Irwin pliers and I was able to get a good grip.
Old topic but I am having trouble removing the top oil line on my '89. It would be easy to remove the bottom fitting for access but it is snug and I have read about them being loctited-in and breaking off the sealing surface from the block. I have tried heat but I am nervous about it. There is very little space to counter-hold the top fitting. Anyone have a tool recommendation?
I cut a wrench in half so it fit from above, the second time. First time I removed the lower adapter but that's not recommended! It is glued in with a super strong glue and the block chips when breaking it loose. Yes I'm the master at doing jobs twice!!
I would NOT try and remove the bottom fitting. It is very likely you will break the sealing surface. Keep working on getting the top line loose with heat etc. I found slim line service wrenches at HF. https://www.harborfreight.com/15-pie...set-93668.html
Thanks all, I found a similar tool by Milwaukee. Due to the clocking of the bottom fitting I still could not get a perfect grip but good enough to free the hose.
@Mrmerlin While removing the oil lines from the block, one of the adapters moved slightly (it moved less than 1mm) while counter-holding. I redoubled my counter holding and was able to remove the line from the adapter without turning it further. My question to you is, should I remove that adapter completely and follow the cleaning and re-sealing protocol? It is it sufficient to just re-torque the adapter and call it good?
Hi Mike since you got the oil line off,
then it would be prudent to heat the fitting,
then remove it and clean it ,
(NOTE about 250 F should work an induction heater would be a good idea here but you can use a torch.)
then put new green loctite onto the fitting and screw it in.
Once the green loctite has been disturbed its no longer as strong as it was thus the need to redo the fitting .
NOTE if you take the fitting out and a piece of girdle material comes with it.
Then you should use JB weld to fasten the fitting back into the block.
Anyone have any thoughts on aftermarket oil cooler lines?
Do these more effectively cool?
I want to head off any oil leaking into the radiator. I'll probably put in a new radiator as well.
Anyone have any thoughts on aftermarket oil cooler lines?
Do these more effectively cool?
I want to head off any oil leaking into the radiator. I'll probably put in a new radiator as well.
I don’t think the lines will be a factor in any heat transfer good or bad.
The aftermarket lines in this picture, I think are from GB’s website?
I would trust quality and functionality, but I never got a handle on who he will sell what parts to. Not a dig but the way it is.
The factory in-radiator, earlier MY, oil cooler core is pretty small. For anything beyond street use, I would do an independent oil cooler set up.
My two cents.
I made my own with stainless hose & metric fittings from BAT. (British American Transfer) They have every fitting known to man & they're great to work with. https://www.batinc.net/
03-05-2008, 10:09 PM
