New remote turbo thread
#106
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Regarding the wastegate...it can be painted black..and you wouldn't see it as much then. One could also do away with the extra pipe back there..but I sorta like the dual pipe look...(for those that know...) they would instantly recognize it.. Heck..you could make it as big as the exhaust pipe for a dual look...or eliminate it..by turning down right after the wastegate...lots of options for piping looks back there..even all black...and stealth..
Regarding the piping..the one that was on my car actually had a heat shield between the intake pipe and exhaust pipe. Not sure what JT is running on his right now...I'll probably take a look tonight...
On mine there was a blowoff valve right up near the MAF too...since you would want to keep the turbo spinning while shifting...
Regarding the piping..the one that was on my car actually had a heat shield between the intake pipe and exhaust pipe. Not sure what JT is running on his right now...I'll probably take a look tonight...
On mine there was a blowoff valve right up near the MAF too...since you would want to keep the turbo spinning while shifting...
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#107
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Is that a BOV or a wastegate? Looks like a wastegate to me. Either way, I agree, having the BOV or the wastegate that low is asking for trouble. The last thing you want in a turbo system is a damaged wastegate (either no boost or limitless boost). I assume the turbos most folks have in mind will require an external wastegate, though.
#108
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Hey John,
Yes, in order to use stock hangers and attach points, the exhaust is brought together and a high flow cat added and then it runs the same channel back as the stock exhaust would to the muffler (now the turbo housing assembly), the other pipe you see is the charge piping back up to the engine bay and to a two piece carbon fibre assembly "up pipe" into the engine compartment on the drivers side. There is also a small oil pump to assist oil recovery from the oil supply to/through the turbo back up to the block.
Yes, in order to use stock hangers and attach points, the exhaust is brought together and a high flow cat added and then it runs the same channel back as the stock exhaust would to the muffler (now the turbo housing assembly), the other pipe you see is the charge piping back up to the engine bay and to a two piece carbon fibre assembly "up pipe" into the engine compartment on the drivers side. There is also a small oil pump to assist oil recovery from the oil supply to/through the turbo back up to the block.
#109
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In any turbo application, a BOV is needed for a stick shift primarily to protect over revving the turbo, in the lower boost applications (5Lbs) on the auto's we didn't see much of an issue, but have determined it is better to have it than not...even in the automatic's.
Last edited by 89 928 turbo; 02-22-2008 at 02:58 PM.
#110
Race Car
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Looking at those undercarriage pictures, isn't there just as much space for a turbo right after the Y in the exhaust (where the cats used to be) as in the back? It would make much more sense to locate a turbo there, as it would be very close to the heads. The closer it is to the heads, the more efficient it will be and the less lag it will develop. I always wondered why Mark Robinson decided to put a turbo just in front of the transmission rather than where the cats are.
Dan
'86 928S 5-spd w/LSD
Dan
'86 928S 5-spd w/LSD
#111
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IAG. I think the issue might be the angle of the photo. Makes it look like the WG is 1" - 2" off the ground.
I also have Eibachs on my shark... she's purty damn low.
Yes, must have a BOV/BPV (Saabs use a Bypass, rather than blow off system). BOV is much easier to use, though. Having a BOV also helps the throttle body internals survive.
#112
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Hey Dan,
Space is the primary reason, a unit just can't fit where you are describing. In a manual, there is a decent sized hole at the tranny. Turbo technology has advanced to the point that lag is minimized. Matching the spool up to some version of 100% to RPM (2,800) in this application makes it pretty responsive. Any kind of a rolling start and the move from 15lbs of vacume to whatever your boost setting is will be nearly instantaneous....on the track, pre-loading to 1,200-1,300 rpms makes the green light a launch...
Space is the primary reason, a unit just can't fit where you are describing. In a manual, there is a decent sized hole at the tranny. Turbo technology has advanced to the point that lag is minimized. Matching the spool up to some version of 100% to RPM (2,800) in this application makes it pretty responsive. Any kind of a rolling start and the move from 15lbs of vacume to whatever your boost setting is will be nearly instantaneous....on the track, pre-loading to 1,200-1,300 rpms makes the green light a launch...
#113
Captain Obvious
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It’s waaaaay easier to make your own RMT setup than to wait for the “kit” to come out. There are more than enough pics on this bard to know how and where to rout the pipes, install the turbo and to run the oil lines. Building a DIY setup is pretty easy, building a “kit” is not. When you are making something for yourself, cost is usually very important and looks might not be as much. Building a kit for the public has to be a nightmare. Everyone wants perfection and a bargain and your reputation is always on the line. I have total respect for those that are willing to do this and stick with it.
Anyone willing to ditch their non working AC to install a supercharger feel free to PM me. I have detailed and scaled pics of my setup and willing to share/ help out anyone that wants to make their own. There is already one other setup like mine in existence, would be nice to see more. Ohh and you can do it for under $1000!
Anyone willing to ditch their non working AC to install a supercharger feel free to PM me. I have detailed and scaled pics of my setup and willing to share/ help out anyone that wants to make their own. There is already one other setup like mine in existence, would be nice to see more. Ohh and you can do it for under $1000!
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#114
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I dislike all the unnecessary negativity.
http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10969
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My headers are due, the jet hot is wearing off (20 years isn't bad). I'll be trying this process out.
#115
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I like it..........Could help..... ----all it takes is money (more)...I heat wrapped my exhaust as much as a double dip solution to a heat sheild on the charge pipe and to optomize the exhaust temps.
#116
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Heat wrap works, I worry about hot spots under the wrap. Probably only an issue on headers.
#119
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It isn't shown in the pics, but you see a big hole on the intake for the Turbo housing...this has a filter that slides over it, a waterproof cover and an aluminum 5/8ths shield mounted over that. The airbox under the hood goes on the shelf.
#120
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89 928 turbo,
Can you elablorate on where the oil supply for the turbo is installed on the engine end? I assume is is taken from where the oil return/supply lines to the oil cooler are bolted to the engine.
At what point in the vacume system is the Blow off Valve routed to?
Thanks in advance.
Can you elablorate on where the oil supply for the turbo is installed on the engine end? I assume is is taken from where the oil return/supply lines to the oil cooler are bolted to the engine.
At what point in the vacume system is the Blow off Valve routed to?
Thanks in advance.