So how do I get them out? Burn them, hammer, C clamp, press out. Mine must be the orginals cause their not buging.

 

i did that job a while ago. as far as i remember, i was able to unbolt them and have them come right out. the only challenge, if i remember correctly was to be able to hold the nuts on the back of the bolts. (or bolts on back of the nuts) . The bushings were just sandwiched in there.
mk

 

I had to remove the rack. Used a small shop press on them, though a c-clamp or vice rig might have worked.. There would have been no way mine would have been removable in situ.

 

The bushings on my '90 were oil-soaked, so removing the rubber core was just a matter of pushing it out using a C-clamp and two appropriate sized sockets, placed on opposite sides of the rack 'ear' - one small enough to fit through the bore of the bushing shell, and one just bigger than the diameter of the bushing shell. The little one presses the rubber insert out.

Now you're left with the bushing shell, which is peened in place. Get a little chisel set (like so: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4885) and hammer the lip of the shell inwards, collapsing it. THen you can pull the shell out with pliers. Sounds harder than it is.

Someone will hopefully post with a more elegant solution, but it worked for me.

 

I used a method similar to Rob's. I used a small chisel and hammer to bend the bushing shell lip up and inward. I did this all the way around the bushing then gave the upraised bushing lip a few taps with the hammer to get it started out the other side. Once it started coming out the other side, I'd grap it with some pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. I also used some WD-40 during the process to help the bushing shell slide out of the rack 'ear'. Unfortunately, I did not take pictures!

 

Rob, did you do this with the rack still in the car and the lines still attached?

Ive had the OE bushings for years and tried once to remove the damn things but i gave up.

 

Ryan-

Not really, the rack was dropped from the lines and was hanging from the tie rods at each end. This gave plenty of room to bash, although the rack would sort of swing in the breeze. I was in the middle of the MM/pan gasket marathon. It was actually Dr. Bob who showed me how to crush the bushing shells. I installed Carl's aluminum bushings, very happy with them.

 

I did mine in the car. Dropped the rack as far as it would go still in the car and dremelled off the bottom swaged part and drifted them through the top. The replacements are not swaged.

 

Just did this yesterday as part of my rack rebuild. This assumes your rack is out: choose a drill bit that will fit between the bushing's outer shell and inner bush, and drill as many holes as you can in the rubber that fills the space between. Then push out the inner bush, which leaves the outer shell still in the rack. If you already have the new bushings, you know that the bushings have one end with a pre-formed shoulder (the other is plain), but the bushings in your rack appear to have shoulders on both sides. The bushings have had their plain ends formed into a shoulder after installation. If you have an angle grinder, you can use it to grind the shoulder on one side completely off (a Dremel would work, too - just more slowly). Then, since the bushing is split, use a hammer and punch (or screwdriver) to collapse the bushing inwards- it will then just fall out. You might be able to do this without grinding off on shoulder, I just didn't bother to try. Others may have better suggestions for replacement, but I found it pretty easy to use a hammer and a punch to form a shoulder on the new bushing after it was installed in the rack. If this isn't clear I'll be glad to share any other observations I have.

 

If the rack is out and in pieces the possibilities are endless.

My favoured way of removing the rubber is using a blow torch - you just stand there and hold the torch until the flaming rubber bush drops out on the oily rags under your workbench conveniently setting fire to your garage. It takes no effort at all but a little care pays dividends

Then

I used a cheap wood chisel and mallet to get the peened over flange started bending up away from the rack ear then an old screwdriver to bend it inwards, same on the back side , grab it with visegrips and graunch it out.

Edit
I forgot to say - don't use your quality wood chisels for this job. I did my first bushing about 25 years ago and started bashing away with one of my late Grandfathers 60 year old sheffield steel boxwood handled mortice chisels. My other grandfather discovered me doing this and I think I was lucky to get away without being boxed around the ears with the boxwood mallet I was using. - You have been warned

 

Ok took me 2 hours but got them out.
I drilled thru the rubber, around the inner collar. Used can of pent oil, then big hammer.
One thing to note, the engine is removed. If I was doing this on ramps from under the rack, the rack would have to be removed for sure.