Twin disc clutch, 84, complete. A couple notes.
12-03-2008, 01:17 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's some more semi random pictures of the job for what its worth. Maybe you could include some of whatever install you're doing too. Some of the old write-ups are better, but they weren't into pics back then.
Sean, check-out the puller for the pilot bearing. Copied that technique (and every other technique) from somebody here. Worked pretty well. Nice to have chunks of aluminum I-beam and billet in the scrap pile.
(Notice the tremendous amount of flywheel glazing on this well-worn car.
Should have pulled it and had it turned.
But, I had to draw the line....At that point in time, was 5 months and many $$$ into the job, first experience with Porsche.
It would either work with the hand deglazing method my grandfather taught me, or f the whole project.)
Starting point, tumbler of cabernet, goes downhill fast from there...ends good though, this clutch works PERFECTLY.
Sean, check-out the puller for the pilot bearing. Copied that technique (and every other technique) from somebody here. Worked pretty well. Nice to have chunks of aluminum I-beam and billet in the scrap pile.
(Notice the tremendous amount of flywheel glazing on this well-worn car.
Should have pulled it and had it turned.
But, I had to draw the line....At that point in time, was 5 months and many $$$ into the job, first experience with Porsche.
It would either work with the hand deglazing method my grandfather taught me, or f the whole project.)
Starting point, tumbler of cabernet, goes downhill fast from there...ends good though, this clutch works PERFECTLY.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-03-2008 at 01:52 AM.
12-03-2008, 08:43 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Nice writeup Chris. 
You sure do keep yourself busy. I'll be doing the release arm bushing pretty soon, but without removing the clutch pack.
I wasn't aware there was anything wrong with your clutch. Felt good when I drove it last.
You sure do keep yourself busy. I'll be doing the release arm bushing pretty soon, but without removing the clutch pack.I wasn't aware there was anything wrong with your clutch. Felt good when I drove it last.
12-03-2008, 07:47 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This work was done Feb 2008. Sean pulled-up the thread last night for another reason and so I took the opportunity to attach the pictures.
12-04-2008, 12:38 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
I dont think i have ever seen new intermediate plate before. wow. nice!!!
if you need a good home for your used intermediate plate, let me know . scot could use one. his is pretty far gone.
if you need a good home for your used intermediate plate, let me know . scot could use one. his is pretty far gone.
12-04-2008, 06:39 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mark,
One of the surfaces seemed pretty worn. Not sure if its salvageable, but I'll send some good snapshots tonight after work. If you are still interested afterwards, then I'll ship it to you by some reasonable means. (I would only ask for you to consider cover shipping later, after the fact.)
Regarding the project, all this work wasn't enough to fully actuate the new clutch.
Despite new flex pressure hose under the car, plus careful bore-cleaning and rebuilding of master and slave, it didn't work quite right.
A new slave didn't solve it (still some gear grinding).
Finally, simply switching Brand new master piston/seals into the old master ---- that solved it. ( am glad, though, that I had first had the old cylinder out of the car and cleaned the rust from the bore --- it needed that. Tried to get away with the rebuild, but the seals were aftermarket and not quite right. New piston and seals worked great --- Inside a clean old bore)
In fact, I did the "footwell switch" of the master innards --- didn't even bleed it afterwards and it worked.
On the next 5 speed I deal with, I will first replace hydraulic cylinders with new.
One of the surfaces seemed pretty worn. Not sure if its salvageable, but I'll send some good snapshots tonight after work. If you are still interested afterwards, then I'll ship it to you by some reasonable means. (I would only ask for you to consider cover shipping later, after the fact.)
Regarding the project, all this work wasn't enough to fully actuate the new clutch.
Despite new flex pressure hose under the car, plus careful bore-cleaning and rebuilding of master and slave, it didn't work quite right.
A new slave didn't solve it (still some gear grinding).
Finally, simply switching Brand new master piston/seals into the old master ---- that solved it. ( am glad, though, that I had first had the old cylinder out of the car and cleaned the rust from the bore --- it needed that. Tried to get away with the rebuild, but the seals were aftermarket and not quite right. New piston and seals worked great --- Inside a clean old bore)
In fact, I did the "footwell switch" of the master innards --- didn't even bleed it afterwards and it worked.
On the next 5 speed I deal with, I will first replace hydraulic cylinders with new.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-04-2008 at 07:04 AM.
12-04-2008, 01:47 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
so you had the old master out, but didnt change the inners , but later did the ole' footwell swap with the parts from the new one? scot had the same issues and it worked great when he changed out the old master via the hole in the wheel well technique. (got to love this list for ideas)
shoot over the pics, but im sure that intermediate plate will work out for scot.
was all that cabling stuff for adjusting the intermediate plate? Im real good at adjusting those now. by the way, mine even with the high pressure plate, is working like a champ, like butter to get it in gear. AND even after 7 full races and 2k of street miles now.
mk
shoot over the pics, but im sure that intermediate plate will work out for scot.
was all that cabling stuff for adjusting the intermediate plate? Im real good at adjusting those now. by the way, mine even with the high pressure plate, is working like a champ, like butter to get it in gear. AND even after 7 full races and 2k of street miles now.
mk
Mark,
One of the surfaces seemed pretty worn. Not sure if its salvageable, but I'll send some good snapshots tonight after work. If you are still interested afterwards, then I'll ship it to you by some reasonable means. (I would only ask for you to consider cover shipping later, after the fact.)
Regarding the project, all this work wasn't enough to fully actuate the new clutch.
Despite new flex pressure hose under the car, plus careful bore-cleaning and rebuilding of master and slave, it didn't work quite right.
A new slave didn't solve it (still some gear grinding).
Finally, simply switching Brand new master piston/seals into the old master ---- that solved it. ( am glad, though, that I had first had the old cylinder out of the car and cleaned the rust from the bore --- it needed that. Tried to get away with the rebuild, but the seals were aftermarket and not quite right. New piston and seals worked great --- Inside a clean old bore)
In fact, I did the "footwell switch" of the master innards --- didn't even bleed it afterwards and it worked.
On the next 5 speed I deal with, I will first replace hydraulic cylinders with new.
One of the surfaces seemed pretty worn. Not sure if its salvageable, but I'll send some good snapshots tonight after work. If you are still interested afterwards, then I'll ship it to you by some reasonable means. (I would only ask for you to consider cover shipping later, after the fact.)
Regarding the project, all this work wasn't enough to fully actuate the new clutch.
Despite new flex pressure hose under the car, plus careful bore-cleaning and rebuilding of master and slave, it didn't work quite right.
A new slave didn't solve it (still some gear grinding).
Finally, simply switching Brand new master piston/seals into the old master ---- that solved it. ( am glad, though, that I had first had the old cylinder out of the car and cleaned the rust from the bore --- it needed that. Tried to get away with the rebuild, but the seals were aftermarket and not quite right. New piston and seals worked great --- Inside a clean old bore)
In fact, I did the "footwell switch" of the master innards --- didn't even bleed it afterwards and it worked.
On the next 5 speed I deal with, I will first replace hydraulic cylinders with new.
12-05-2008, 04:38 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Intermediate Plate Pictures
Mark,
The carving seen above is the pressure plate.
Below are pictures of the intermediate plate, some surface grooving, not as bad as pressure plate.
I kept it thinking it might be serviceable on a future car, being as they are so expensive to replace.
But I don't know.
A) its yours if you want it.
B) regardless of your decision, I hope somebody reading has a better one collecting dust that they can also send to you in support of the race effort.
The carving seen above is the pressure plate.
Below are pictures of the intermediate plate, some surface grooving, not as bad as pressure plate.
I kept it thinking it might be serviceable on a future car, being as they are so expensive to replace.
But I don't know.
A) its yours if you want it.
B) regardless of your decision, I hope somebody reading has a better one collecting dust that they can also send to you in support of the race effort.
Last edited by Landseer; 12-05-2008 at 05:00 AM.
12-05-2008, 08:11 AM
#29
Great job here Chris. Many thanks for the details you put up here, they help a lot.
12-05-2008, 07:38 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
It doesnt look that bad. for a race car, it should be fine!
Ill get scot to pony up some cash for the shipping and get right back to you
Thanks for the detailed pics. I wonder how it got so grooved?
mk
Ill get scot to pony up some cash for the shipping and get right back to you
Thanks for the detailed pics. I wonder how it got so grooved?
mk
