BC

http://www.allraceoil.com/gibbsmicrozolbr.html


http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_02_oils.html

I was planning on a 30 weight straight dino, but I saw these.

RyanPerrella

Not sure about either of those 2. If anything I would suggest the VP stuff over the other.

I dont think it will hurt anything, but I doubt they will help over a conventional oil from a known oil company that is in the business of just oil.

If you believe in that stuff have at it, again i dont think it will hurt anything.

Actually i think its odd that there is a straight beak in oil. They cant be making much money off this stuff as I cant imagine who buys it. Its got to be a very limited market they are selling to, a market that i would think would know what they are doing, so maybe there is something to it, but i wouldnt pay the extra cost for it unless it was proven to provide some benefit. But I dont think that if you use this stuff it will give you 10% more HP because it was broken in with magic oil.

Mrmerlin

hey Brendan just use Valvoline 15W50 oil , the cheap stuff, run it for 500 miles then change it, remember dont baby this engine run it like you stole it, and it will make lots of power

RyanPerrella

Thats how i broke mine in.

BC

What about a straight 30 weight?

FlyingDog

I had always been told straight 30wt non-detergent conventional oil for break in periods. I don't know why it is supposed to be 30wt, but the rest I understand.

RyanPerrella

30 weight is by definition non detergent to my understanding

BC

Me too. But one of those I linked to are 30tw, essentially.

RyanPerrella

then why pay more?

I believe people can make more money all in their marketing and advertising and labeling, perhaps this is just one such case.

If you believe its just 30 wt oil, why would you pay 150% of the cost for it?

Mrmerlin

I broke my engine in the same way, it runs well , has good oil pressure, burns a bit of oil but its not over spec for consumption. Then at 500 miles i changed it out for mobil 1 15W 50

6.0-928S

Brendan,
The main ingredient during break in is zinc. It forms a thin coating especially on valvetrain parts. Most oils eliminated it years ago. That's why so many forums have reported cams & lifters wiping out shortly after being built. If the oils you have linked to contain substantial amounts of zinc I'd use them. I use Shell Rotella Diesel oil. I had several lifter/cam failures in engines I built a few years ago. (domestic) I read a paper on zinc additives being removed from most oils & changed to the Rotella. No problems since. I'm using that as my break-in oil in my stroker.
Zinc is also in GM engine oil supplement (EOS) if you can find it. Most dealers that don't stock it make you buy a case if you try to order it.

Regards, Hammer

hacker-pschorr

I lurk on a few other forums that have areas with a lot of engine building talk going on. I've found a lot of (domestic) engine builders always pour in a bottle of STP treatment, the blue bottle, when breaking in a motor. It's basically heavier weight oil with a high concentration of ZDDP.

6.0-928S

ZDDP...........Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate.

Hammer

atb

When I was in highschool, the local big time engine builder used it as assembly lube and poured in the balance. Never asked the reason, I guess that's it.

6.0-928S

Brendan,
Google ZDDP & you'll find what you're looking for. Lots of explanations.

Hammer