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How to adjust front hubs?

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Old 02-13-2008, 07:33 PM
  #16  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
again, those bearings DO NOT LIKE axial forces ! it may seem like its nothing, but the bearings and their races are not built to take axial loads. probably not a big deal, but ive seen large electric motors with bearing damage just by riding on a truck across country, while sitting on the shelves of a semi truck. bearings can take radial loads, but they are ment to be moving (rotating) so, when you wack or wack and pull on a bearing cover, all that force is being transferred to the bearing races. a small ping on the bearing surface or race, and it starts to accelerate the wear. sure, if the hub is not on very tight, its probably not a big deal. however, the ones ive removed are pretty jammed on there. But, with leverage they come right off, with no issues. even the real tough ones where you would have needed to really be wacking hard on the sides to get it to budge!!

it is just not worth it, when a channel lock is effective and uses leverage properly to get it out of the hub.

mk
I guess the manual is wrong again Mark, (40-27) the factory calls for a VW tool that is a collet on a slide hammer.

I use a bearing spliter hooked to a slide hammer.
If the bearings could not take side loads as small as a whack with a slide hammer, your wheels would come off after a few laps.
Old 02-13-2008, 08:31 PM
  #17  
mark kibort
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The manual calls for a lot of things that might not be the best way. with bearings, its a fact, that impact like this could risk doing some damage. it doesnt take much to damage a bearing race. depending on how hard you hit it, you are basically pounding the bearing in the race with the same force. next time you grease your bearings. take the bearing and smack them with a hammer. If it doesnt matter, then that shouldnt make you cringe like it does me. remember we are not talking about side loads, we are talking about shock loads. im sure in most cases, the dual bearings are tough enough, but remember, it doesnt take much to make a small dent in the race or tiny flat spot on the bearings that can lead to pre-mature wear.

Plus, its SO much easier with the channel locks. plus, how many of have that tool??

mk

Originally Posted by blown 87
I guess the manual is wrong again Mark, (40-27) the factory calls for a VW tool that is a collet on a slide hammer.


I use a bearing spliter hooked to a slide hammer.
If the bearings could not take side loads as small as a whack with a slide hammer, your wheels would come off after a few laps.
Old 02-13-2008, 08:50 PM
  #18  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
The manual calls for a lot of things that might not be the best way. with bearings, its a fact, that impact like this could risk doing some damage. it doesnt take much to damage a bearing race. depending on how hard you hit it, you are basically pounding the bearing in the race with the same force. next time you grease your bearings. take the bearing and smack them with a hammer. If it doesnt matter, then that shouldnt make you cringe like it does me. remember we are not talking about side loads, we are talking about shock loads. im sure in most cases, the dual bearings are tough enough, but remember, it doesnt take much to make a small dent in the race or tiny flat spot on the bearings that can lead to pre-mature wear.

Plus, its SO much easier with the channel locks. plus, how many of have that tool??

mk
Mark do you have any idea how hard a bearing race is?
Old 02-14-2008, 02:25 AM
  #19  
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good point. The rollers (or ***** when talking about ball bearings) can get small flat spots (very small) it doesnt take much. I spent a lot of time dealing with bearing failures in large industrial motors. However, once the bearing goes bad, it starts to take the race along with it. remember the story i told of the motors on the semi taking a trip across country. just the shock loads on the bearings not rolling, were enough to damage them. These are bearings that could take huge radial loads, but the shock loads damaged them.

The point is, why take the chance, and the channel locks are faster and more accessable by most.

mk
Originally Posted by blown 87
Mark do you have any idea how hard a bearing race is?
Old 02-14-2008, 10:15 AM
  #20  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
good point. The rollers (or ***** when talking about ball bearings) can get small flat spots (very small) it doesnt take much. I spent a lot of time dealing with bearing failures in large industrial motors. However, once the bearing goes bad, it starts to take the race along with it. remember the story i told of the motors on the semi taking a trip across country. just the shock loads on the bearings not rolling, were enough to damage them. These are bearings that could take huge radial loads, but the shock loads damaged them.

The point is, why take the chance, and the channel locks are faster and more accessable by most.

mk
There is no way you are going to get mine off with channel locks, with out destroying them, they were really on there.
Old 02-14-2008, 02:21 PM
  #21  
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Old 02-14-2008, 02:29 PM
  #22  
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yes, you can get them off. you have to put the channel locks at full max, so you get a very good grip at the end . then, lever up and down with some good force. Ive taken off the most stubborn caps, when even the tool was having problems. (surprising the mechanics at the shop )
they have to be good channel locks though, otherwise you dont get a good grip on the edges.

Mk


Originally Posted by blown 87
There is no way you are going to get mine off with channel locks, with out destroying them, they were really on there.
Old 02-14-2008, 03:04 PM
  #23  
Mike Simard
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Mark, how do you install the cap?
Old 02-14-2008, 03:20 PM
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:25 PM
  #25  
mark kibort
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light tapping?????? i think it goes on easier than it comes off. the tapping is much lighter when putting it on , that you could ever use in getting it off with a slide hammer or hitting it from the sides, especially, if what Blow87 is saying about how it cant even be levered off with a channel lock. (which is not true, as its all in the technique. Ive never met a bearing cap i couldnt removed like this!)

plus the radial hits are different than the axial hits. the axial hits can damage the bearing structure, with a little force being applied the bearings due to the slight angle of the race. a slide hammer removal puts a lot of force on the outer bearing and it can be much higher than any driving forces. tapping the cover back on, is the same axial forces but on the rear bearing race, but they are much much lower. radial forces by hitting the sides , use high repeated forces to try and dislodge the cap. it has a high risk of pinging the bearings.

channel locks and a rubber mallet. easy off, easy on.

mk


Originally Posted by Mike Simard
Mark, how do you install the cap?



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