How to adjust front hubs?
#3
Hi,
I used a piece of 40 by 40 wood about 200mm long and used a hammer to knock the cap out (and back in). This meant no chisel, punch etc marks. I had tried the C clamp approach as worked on my other side with no luck.
Regards,
Myles Garmonsway
I used a piece of 40 by 40 wood about 200mm long and used a hammer to knock the cap out (and back in). This meant no chisel, punch etc marks. I had tried the C clamp approach as worked on my other side with no luck.
Regards,
Myles Garmonsway
#6
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 1
From: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
Twisting a small screw driver tip placed between the hub and cap ridge works with enough leverage to start it loose also.
#7
I used an searated pipe clamp from my direct tv antenna mount. Muffler clamp would have worked too.
Clamped it on at the narrow waist of the cup and used a hammer and rod to whack it.
Clamped it on at the narrow waist of the cup and used a hammer and rod to whack it.
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#8
Framnav
It seems like I have to use some more force to get it off. Iīve done this on other cars (not Porsche) and are familiar with the process of using the chiselmethod. Strange thing thou is that it seems to be some kind of lockring or centering ring for the rim. Itīs about 8mm wide and with a little milled gap in it.
I donīt know if that belongs there but it looks stock. Unfortunatly I canīt get any pictures of it at this point so if anyone got a picture of the front hub with the brakedisc mounted I can see if I just mixed things up or if my car got some extra part around the hubcup.
/Tobias
I donīt know if that belongs there but it looks stock. Unfortunatly I canīt get any pictures of it at this point so if anyone got a picture of the front hub with the brakedisc mounted I can see if I just mixed things up or if my car got some extra part around the hubcup.
/Tobias
#11
That milled notch is for hex key clearance when adjusting the bearing after the cap is off. The cap is just a cup with an interference fit, no other retention methods. They can be a bear to remove, have patience. I like the idea of blows with something softer than the steel cap so as not to scratch it. I think I've used aluminum bars as a punch.
#12
LARGE CHANNEL LOCKS! PERIOD!!! you grab it head on and rock up and down. YOU DONT WANT TO BANG ON THE HUB !!!! what are you guys nuts?? thats how you ping the bearngs. ive taken off the toughest of bearing covers this way, with no issues. if you dont want it to scratch the bearing cap, then just put a rag over it. rock up and down and it will come off.
mk
mk
#13
I had an aluminum tube machined with three set screws arranged around the tube. The tube fits over the cup and the screws are tightened and I then screw a threaded rod into the other end of the aluminum tube which was machined out of round stock and threaded to receive the rod. I then use a slide hammer on the rod and it comes off with one or two whacks. No marks or fussiness. Just slides off straight.
#14
again, those bearings DO NOT LIKE axial forces ! it may seem like its nothing, but the bearings and their races are not built to take axial loads. probably not a big deal, but ive seen large electric motors with bearing damage just by riding on a truck across country, while sitting on the shelves of a semi truck. bearings can take radial loads, but they are ment to be moving (rotating) so, when you wack or wack and pull on a bearing cover, all that force is being transferred to the bearing races. a small ping on the bearing surface or race, and it starts to accelerate the wear. sure, if the hub is not on very tight, its probably not a big deal. however, the ones ive removed are pretty jammed on there. But, with leverage they come right off, with no issues. even the real tough ones where you would have needed to really be wacking hard on the sides to get it to budge!!
it is just not worth it, when a channel lock is effective and uses leverage properly to get it out of the hub.
mk
it is just not worth it, when a channel lock is effective and uses leverage properly to get it out of the hub.
mk
I had an aluminum tube machined with three set screws arranged around the tube. The tube fits over the cup and the screws are tightened and I then screw a threaded rod into the other end of the aluminum tube which was machined out of round stock and threaded to receive the rod. I then use a slide hammer on the rod and it comes off with one or two whacks. No marks or fussiness. Just slides off straight.