Help Please, New to me UPDATED. bad plug wires
#61
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holy bat **** plug wires are cheap......
#63
Under the Lift
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Since your end connectors are bad, you need to spring for the full set (wires plus connectors), which I always recommend anyway. Here they are for $295.
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...602%20063%20ST
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...602%20063%20ST
#64
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i wonder if those are like the factory originals BERU's ?
researching that now. some are over 4 hundred but are complete with spacers and a direct bolt on.. that is damn near a 200 dollar price different... i wonder why???
thanks guys and maybe this will fix it.
researching that now. some are over 4 hundred but are complete with spacers and a direct bolt on.. that is damn near a 200 dollar price different... i wonder why???
thanks guys and maybe this will fix it.
Last edited by Daymon66; 02-05-2008 at 11:40 PM.
#65
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Jim and Mark at 928 intl.com are great. Order quickly, you may get they by the weekend. You could also check with Roger at 928srus.com . I am not sure he carries the spark plug wires but, he is in Texas and could get them to you quicker.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
#68
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just hung up with Roger. he had a complete BERU set in stock. got them and some new plugs.
great deal and will be here thursday.
i don't do ebay.. very bad experience buying a couple collector guitars...
thanks again and we will see if this fixes anything or makes it worse.
great deal and will be here thursday.
i don't do ebay.. very bad experience buying a couple collector guitars...
thanks again and we will see if this fixes anything or makes it worse.
#69
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Nice diagnosis. I knew you'd nail it, Dr. House.
#71
Take a deep breath and methodically sort this out via the search engine on this forum. Tell you a story: I bought my 86.5 from a PO in Northern Cal. I drove it home to Maryland. No problems for 4k miles. The week after getting home, it began stranding me. This was never convenient and I suspected all kinds of expensive causes. Ultimately, after my third tow, I finally looked at the battery terminal connections and found that the power feed cable for the engine computers was just hanging on the battery post. I had never bothered to look. Most of the "gremlins" in the 928 are either a product of neglect, or in my case, oversight. I have copied Wally Plumley's annual maintenance recommendations. Until you get the car running and before you spend big bucks, I would advise going through the list methodically with your car:
Annual maintenance:
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare
tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative
battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery.
Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top
of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the
battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray
won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so.
Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box.
After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area
is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the
chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right
forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start
terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you
are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items.
If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the
connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If
the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and
reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to
the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the
cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness
or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion
and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the
alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness.
This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel
cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness
and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert
three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them
visually for damage or corrosion. Test them if desired. Later cars have a
fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This
won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a
relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of
pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works
well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal
tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You
can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF
the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative
cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the ground
(negative) cable. Make certain that the positive battery terminal can not
short against the box lid. A terminal cover is a good thing. Lubricate the
battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the rear wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy
plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a
tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and
lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall
many problems.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
------------------------------------------
Good luck;
Mike
#72
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May be the first step..... Let me play Andrew, think positive.
You have great support here. I know you have had issues getting to know the car, etc. However, you are this close to ......
You have great support here. I know you have had issues getting to know the car, etc. However, you are this close to ......
#73
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thanks mike, i appreciate that.
hell yes.. andrew had me thinking warped heads and a motor rebuild.
i know it's not over yet but we did isolate "a problem" and once we get that out of the way we can move to whatever may be next.
we did get a bunch of rain down here and it did sit out in it. we have also had really high humidity. add that to two hand/hose car washes in two days and i can see some issues.
i see fireflies under the hood so this is probably a pretty good start. and since the MAF did make it run worse when disconnected i know i can rule that out as a problem.
parker after spending the day in it saturday i got a lot closer to it..
NOW WHILE I'M WAITING ON THE PLUG WIRES I NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW THE HELL TO GET THAT DAMN HATCH OPEN.
CRAWLED BACK THERE AND TOOK OUT THE TOOL KIT, BOTH SWITCHES ARE WORKING, MOTOR RUNS BUT HATCH WON'T RELEASE. I'M ON IT...
hell yes.. andrew had me thinking warped heads and a motor rebuild.
i know it's not over yet but we did isolate "a problem" and once we get that out of the way we can move to whatever may be next.
we did get a bunch of rain down here and it did sit out in it. we have also had really high humidity. add that to two hand/hose car washes in two days and i can see some issues.
i see fireflies under the hood so this is probably a pretty good start. and since the MAF did make it run worse when disconnected i know i can rule that out as a problem.
parker after spending the day in it saturday i got a lot closer to it..
NOW WHILE I'M WAITING ON THE PLUG WIRES I NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW THE HELL TO GET THAT DAMN HATCH OPEN.
CRAWLED BACK THERE AND TOOK OUT THE TOOL KIT, BOTH SWITCHES ARE WORKING, MOTOR RUNS BUT HATCH WON'T RELEASE. I'M ON IT...
#74
Craic Head
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Well, hopefully you found the problem, it sure sounds like it. Crappy connections+humidity=bad news.
Post your results when you figure out the rear hatch thing. I've got a similar problem.
Post your results when you figure out the rear hatch thing. I've got a similar problem.
#75
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There are numerous "hatch" threads on this forum. Dig into them an you will have a hatch that works. One thing at a time. One thing at a time. is the mantra.
Love your car!! Don't sweat the small stuff. Get her running first.
Love your car!! Don't sweat the small stuff. Get her running first.