Since I did not have a clue, I voted for #4. Did I win anything? Maybe a free belt retension?

Bill: I'm sorry to hear you are under the weather! Maybe the medicine you need is a fast drive in a shark. At the very least it will keep you from getting depressed...

 

OK. I should try that before I try H'man's remedy. It's just a drippy cold, but it's a humdinger.

I agree - #4 is it!

 

bent pivot bolt +1
What are the pulley covered in; looks like salt

Marton

 

I thought (perhaps wrongly) that the pivot bolt is now considered essential when doing a TB job. Big Dave's experience has taught me that.

 

Andrew, did you used to think it was optional?

Andre, I'm actually not in on this job, Adam is doing it and the last thing he did before packing it in last night was see this and take some pics.

We should all find out what the real issue is either today or tomorrow when he gets it the rest of the way out.

Stay tuned...

 

Don't laugh... upto a couple years ago, the book of wisdom did not even mention to check for straigtness, let alone replacement. For the $0.75 it may cost to replace, it's cheap insurance.

 

I was kidding, I know what your post meant. But it sounded like you were saying the bolt itself was optional, not just replacing it.

Sorry for the confusion. Need more coffee...

 

I put in the later WP; I think it has a better support for the pulley.
& you get a new one (or checked one) with every WP

Marton

 

I call it "Big Dave's Howzithanging Rule" .... in the past 4 tb jobs I've done, all were shoulder bolt jobbies and all got new bolts. Toss it.

 

What, no HTML??

 

thats what i was thinking. BUT, i do have a drawing for pre-87 cars that has a waster under #12, and thats my theory why my belt drifts to the front.
I think if the thick washer was missing from the shoulder bolt, there would be big problems. however, i dont recognize the waster under the roller. it does look pretty thick.

mk

 

Circlip 4 determines the position of the roller. If you put washer 12 on 5, it won't change the position unless circlip 4 is left off.

 

Yes, but washer #12 omitted from between the tensioner arm and the idler roller on the WP will change the position of the entire arm, moving it inward toward the WP, and cause the outside edge of the belt to rub on the arm as shown. That will also throw the tensioner roller off it's correct track.

Additionally, the circlip was already inplace on the roller as shipped from the supplier in both instances that i did my timing belt, once from 928intl and the other time from 928SP. I can't see why anyone would remove the circlip if the roller is already shipped with it inplace.

 

I voted "None of the above". Had the same thing happen to a previous 928 and it was the two "#3's" in that diagram someone posted. Those bushings wore out on mine and allowed the tensioner to tilt enough to cause the belt to do exactly what yours appears to be doing; rub against the tensioner arm.

 

Hi everyone - just came in from the garage and this is what I found:

1) The shoulder bolt has a slight bend to it
2) The tensioner arm bushings were worn and partially gone - left "shiny" wear areas on the shoulder bolt
3) Believe it or not, the belt wore a slight groove in the backside of the tensioner arm!
4) The tensioner roller is bad, very bad - when I spin it, it squeaks and has a rough feel to it
5) The tensioner boot crumbled when I removed the tensioner arm
6) The grounding strap was broken

And finally, the waterpump is a Laso unit....

I will be replacing all bushings, rollers, etc. to get the TB system back on spec.

Should I leave the waterpump in or replace it now with a "non-Laso" rebuilt or new unit?

Pictures to follow - thank you for your input!
Adam