Hard Starting
#1
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Hard Starting
Recently, I have had trouble starting the car. It takes maybe 20 cranks to get the engine to fire and then it coughs and splutters for 5 or so seconds before it settles in a nice idle.
I have visually checked for leaks in the engine compartment but have not gone as far as to follow the fuel lines all the way back to the tank. Pumps / check valve, and fuel hoses in engine bay were replaced a couple of years ago.
Could this be a fuel accumulator problem?
Thanks
I have visually checked for leaks in the engine compartment but have not gone as far as to follow the fuel lines all the way back to the tank. Pumps / check valve, and fuel hoses in engine bay were replaced a couple of years ago.
Could this be a fuel accumulator problem?
Thanks
#2
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I am certainly no expert, but have been dealing with the CIS and the same issues for a month now. Have you run any cleaners through your tank to clean out the fuel lines? Anything that I can see after that is chasing the problem around to each component....which there are several threads of late on this.
I'm guessing someone will chime in with the WUR or the CSV. Need to make sure these are not clogged and are getting the necessary voltage when needed.
I'm guessing someone will chime in with the WUR or the CSV. Need to make sure these are not clogged and are getting the necessary voltage when needed.
#3
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No cleaners, I stick to Chevron with Techron. WUR is also new.
Forgot to mention that problem only occurs after the car site for at least a day. This leads me to believe the accumulator is not holding pressure or there is a slow leak.
Forgot to mention that problem only occurs after the car site for at least a day. This leads me to believe the accumulator is not holding pressure or there is a slow leak.
#4
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One or more of the following:
Leaking injectors, leaking accumulator, leaking fuel check valve.
Definitely try running some Berryman's Fuel System Cleaner through it as a first step.
Leaking injectors, leaking accumulator, leaking fuel check valve.
Definitely try running some Berryman's Fuel System Cleaner through it as a first step.
#5
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Must be accumulator because injectors & fule check valve are new.
Randy, when you refer to fuel check valve, do you mean the one on the discharge side of the external pump?
Randy, when you refer to fuel check valve, do you mean the one on the discharge side of the external pump?
#6
Sean,
There are two configurations on the plumbing of the accumulator. The original just has the inlet and outlet lines. The upgrade has an additional line from the back side that returns leaking fuel to the tank. If yours has the upgrade, remove the backside line and check for fuel. If no fuel, the accumulator is OK. If yours is the original two line accumulator, you will see evidence of fuel leakage if the accumumlator is causing a leakdown hard start problem. That doesn't mean the accumulator is good, just that it isn't causing a leakdown.
Also, check for 12 volts at the cold start valve during initial cranking. If no voltage, the thermotime switch is probably bad or there is something wrong in the fuel pump relay circuit the powers the switch.
Dennis
There are two configurations on the plumbing of the accumulator. The original just has the inlet and outlet lines. The upgrade has an additional line from the back side that returns leaking fuel to the tank. If yours has the upgrade, remove the backside line and check for fuel. If no fuel, the accumulator is OK. If yours is the original two line accumulator, you will see evidence of fuel leakage if the accumumlator is causing a leakdown hard start problem. That doesn't mean the accumulator is good, just that it isn't causing a leakdown.
Also, check for 12 volts at the cold start valve during initial cranking. If no voltage, the thermotime switch is probably bad or there is something wrong in the fuel pump relay circuit the powers the switch.
Dennis
#7
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Thanks Dennis. I will check the accumulator.
Do I take from what you say the the cold start valve is required even when ambient temperatures are above zero?
Do I take from what you say the the cold start valve is required even when ambient temperatures are above zero?