re-keying locks
12-17-2007, 04:33 AM
#16
928 Barrister
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One other caution for alarm lock cars is to be certain that the alarm tumbler piece at the end of the cylinder is set at the in between position (male contact arm with copper contact) halfway between the contacts in the white cover which will ultimately be screwed onto the whole assembly and contains the wiring. That way the long key will slide in correctly and seat and you can turn it. Otherwise, it may not work at all. You can turn this tumbler piece by hand before connecting the white plastic cover to orient it properly. Once it is all buttoned up and in the car you won't be able to access it.
12-17-2007, 03:17 PM
#17
Addict
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I was just going to temporarily use the alarm one, but it belongs to an 85 I have with an alarm and I would eventually have to end up replacing that one, so I will wait to get the correct non alarm one.
12-17-2007, 03:25 PM
#18
Under the Lift
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OK, I tore everything apart and did it "Bill's way" and it works. Thanks Bill. Should have gazed at your post this morning before I did battle with this thing.
Two more cautions: Do not try to refasten the black outer retaining sleeve using the epoxy method I described in an earlier post. Use locksmith provided pins or use the method I found tonight. I pushed out from inside the cylinder the pins that had been ground down and then re-installed them just a tiny bit higher out of the groove so they provide an anchor for the epoxy later. Then I will epoxy over the groove and the projecting pins should serve to key to the epoxy. If I wanted to do it correctly, I would follow the previous advice by waiting until my friendly neighborhood locksmith opened in the morning and buy some new pins and then install them properly. But I need to work tomorrow and am lazy and want to finish this job tonight. Oh allright, I'll do it right and put the pins in properly then. Otherwise, use Bill's method of using small screws and grinding them off. Epoxy will need to be smoothed or you won't get the lock assembly into the housing. And in my case, epoxy will fail and then you have a retaining sleeve that will come off in your hand and anyone may then pull the lock cylinder out of the latch and gain access to your car using a screwdriver.
I think the answer to all of this is to drink beer and everything would become clearer.
Two more cautions: Do not try to refasten the black outer retaining sleeve using the epoxy method I described in an earlier post. Use locksmith provided pins or use the method I found tonight. I pushed out from inside the cylinder the pins that had been ground down and then re-installed them just a tiny bit higher out of the groove so they provide an anchor for the epoxy later. Then I will epoxy over the groove and the projecting pins should serve to key to the epoxy. If I wanted to do it correctly, I would follow the previous advice by waiting until my friendly neighborhood locksmith opened in the morning and buy some new pins and then install them properly. But I need to work tomorrow and am lazy and want to finish this job tonight. Oh allright, I'll do it right and put the pins in properly then. Otherwise, use Bill's method of using small screws and grinding them off. Epoxy will need to be smoothed or you won't get the lock assembly into the housing. And in my case, epoxy will fail and then you have a retaining sleeve that will come off in your hand and anyone may then pull the lock cylinder out of the latch and gain access to your car using a screwdriver.
I think the answer to all of this is to drink beer and everything would become clearer.
Also, depending on which lock we're talking about, I used various things to replace the pins. If you can get the correct size locksmith pins, great, but a pop-rivet worked well for me in one case and a brass screw in another, as I show in that thread.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-17-2007 at 03:43 PM.
12-17-2007, 06:44 PM
#19
Drifting
It's not a bad idea to try and get all of the brass lock pins back in but as long as you can get one in you should be fine. I used a rolled steel drift pin to replace a few of the brass pins that were damaged beyond use. They'll work but you've got to grind them flush. And good luck removing them as they are pretty hard steel.
12-17-2007, 06:49 PM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
i used a combination of brass screws and oval nail ends on the hatch lock although i managed to preserve the pin that came out of the plastic cam. on the door locks the hacksaw method worked a treat in terms of allowing you to pick the pins out and re-use them. the write up from 928.org.uk also says you can push the pins all the way in if you have the key inserte4d in the lock??
12-17-2007, 11:52 PM
#21
928 Barrister
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Woe is me. I re-installed the hatch lock again after finally getting the spring installed correctly, but now the interior lights won't work automatically when the doors are opened, not will they shut off when the doors are closed and the car is started. I shall remove the hatch lock and recheck the position of the contact arm on the alarm tumbler portion at the tail of the lock cylinder. I had resoldered the connections to that lock as a precaution, but the contact arm must not be making contact so a circuit is open (?). Well, practice makes perfect so I am approaching perfection with this chore.
12-18-2007, 12:03 AM
#22
Under the Lift
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Ron: Did you mess with the receiver? There is a "door" style pin screwed into the bottom that breaks ground, or should, when the hatch is closed.
12-18-2007, 02:05 AM
#23
928 Barrister
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No, but earlier, when the hatch was closed and the lock was internally damaged (translated: key turned completely around but woouldn't unlatch), I was back there messing with the electric mechanism for unlatching the hatch and likely might have disconnected the wire to that switch. I'll climb back into there tomorrow when it warms up for a look see and hopefully it will be that simple. Thanks.