drnick

ive just completed this small but satisfying job on my 79. when i first got the car it had three different keys and four different locks! it really annoyed me not only to try and remember which key did what but even more it was a pain carrying around a bunch of three keys. i used the following description:

http://www.928.org.uk//content/view/56/119/

from the UK 928 web site. the door locks are really straight forward, i used a hacksaw to cut into the side of the lock barrell to pick out the pins. its quite easy to pull them out of the doors and put them back (at least on an early car without the alarm). the hatch lock is more difficult in that there are more pins to extract ive taken pictures of the pin holes after my attempts to drill out the pins. the other pics show the lock barrel and the pins that you can swap around for different lengths, some need to be filed.

chrly924s

I just got 2 keys cut from photo from the guy in Australia that 928int recommends. The keys work great in the hatch and ignition, but not in the doors. This tells me that he did his job OK, it's my 26 year old locks not cooperating. I wonder if taking the door locks out and comparing how the original and replacement would solve anything?

Mike Frye

Cool write-up Nick.

Chrly924s: As Nick said, it's pretty easy to remove the lock cylinders and then you can just put your key in and cut/file off the ends of the tumblers that stick out. Once you get it nice and smooth with your key in, it should turn and unlock perfectly.

I'm curious though, did the original key work in everything? If so, I would think the ones made from the photo should work everywhere too. If you can see a difference between the original and the ones made from the photo, you might want to check with the locksmith and see if something can be done.

928ntslow

This is EXACTLY what I need to do. My rear hatch lock is broken at one of the flanges and I have a spare. I need to swap the cylinders. I will follow this and make a DIY attempt. Nice write up!

Bill Ball

Here's a report of my experience in this area...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/380616-the-anatomy-of-a-hatch-alarm-lock.html

LT Texan

A job I've never gotten around to. One key for ignition and hatch. One key for the driver's side door. No key for the passenger door.

What is it with the 928 and keys?

drnick

very nice write up bill, excellent pics detailing the whole process. this is a really satisfying job going from several keys and non functional locks to having them all working. i was pleased by how straightforward it was

mike, just a small point - i found it was hardly necessary to file any of the tumblers as they can be swapped around to make them fit. on this hatch key i only needed to file two tumblers and managed to swap about four others, two didnt need to be changed at all.

chrly924s

Thanks, I will do that before I put the door panel back on. Just put new speakers in the car. I got the dash and seats over at the uphosterer getting them redone.

Mike Frye

You're probably right. I'm just thinking if the ignition and hatch work, it's probably very close to working, maybe just one is sticking proud of the housing.

928ntslow

Dang! The one I have to replace is a NON alarm one and I have one WITH an alarm so the casings don't match. Anybody out there have a spare hatch lock they don't need that is NON alarm?

Ron_H

Here is the problem when working on the rear hatch lock. Sorry for the low quality photos, but I am NOT taking this apart aqain to re-shoot the photos.
Those who brave the disassembly will discover this "spring" that falls out of the outer cylinder when the lock/pins/inner cylinder is removed. Good ******* luck getting it back together unless you observe first what it does. Once you figure it out, like everything else Porsche, it is so simple it is almost unbelieveable. Apparently it is nothing more than a spacer to allow the pawl to maintain it's path and location. Anyway, here is the little ding-a-ling part along with the pawl that actuates the plastic latch.

I had installed the lock after re-keying was done by someone else. The lights wouldn't work in the interior. I went out to re-check the contacts and remove the lock to re-set the initial position of the alarm contacts on the lock. Of course the long key wouldn't work but the short key would, (but I wrote that off! Just two keys at $25 each. WTF) And the person who rekeyed the lock didn't bother to replace the two pins that keep the cylinder from rotating. He simply ground them down and then epoxied over the gouge and painted everything black. I had to sand down the epoxy hump before installing the lock. Well, when I pulled it out the second time, the outer casing came off and the inner cylinder flew out leaving me with that curiously shaped "spring". I set about performing a remedy for the long key not working and used a file to sand down the errant pins. Now both keys work. Then I struggled with that freaking *&$%#*&%$#!! "spring" for three hours and a basket full of swear words until I walked over to look at it again and it made sense and all went together. I think drinking beer makes car parts designers evil and they dream up super complicated things that are really simple but don't appear to be at first glance, and then they sell them to Porsche. Anyway, here is the part:

928ntslow

OK...I'm in suspense, how does it all fit together????

drnick

keith, wont the alarm lock work just as well but without the alarm function? i mean i would think it should be useable in your car, just with the alarm portion either filed flat or with the tumblers/pins removed?

Ron_H

I just read Bill's post and he got that "spring" spacer working differently from what I did. I will tear it all apart again and try it his way and maybe it will still work. Just follow Bill's photos and everything should come out OK. And you'll still have your hair on your head.

Ron_H

OK, I tore everything apart and did it "Bill's way" and it works. Thanks Bill. Should have gazed at your post this morning before I did battle with this thing.

Two more cautions: Do not try to refasten the black outer retaining sleeve using the epoxy method I described in an earlier post. Use locksmith provided pins or use the method I found tonight. I pushed out from inside the cylinder the pins that had been ground down and then re-installed them just a tiny bit higher out of the groove so they provide an anchor for the epoxy later. Then I will epoxy over the groove and the projecting pins should serve to key to the epoxy. If I wanted to do it correctly, I would follow the previous advice by waiting until my friendly neighborhood locksmith opened in the morning and buy some new pins and then install them properly. But I need to work tomorrow and am lazy and want to finish this job tonight. Oh allright, I'll do it right and put the pins in properly then. Otherwise, use Bill's method of using small screws and grinding them off. Epoxy will need to be smoothed or you won't get the lock assembly into the housing. And in my case, epoxy will fail and then you have a retaining sleeve that will come off in your hand and anyone may then pull the lock cylinder out of the latch and gain access to your car using a screwdriver.

I think the answer to all of this is to drink beer and everything would become clearer.