928ntslow

I cheesed 4 of the 10 cheeshead bolts on the fly wheel getting to the rear main. I hate those damn things. I realize now I should have had a 12pt rather than 8pt or what ever I had/have. I think if I had the same amount of teeth on the socket rather than less, there would be far less chance of marring the things. I got 6 of them and thought it was going well enough. All it takes is one slip on the wrong angle and the bolt head is gone.

So now what? I thought about getting the correct pt. tool and seeing if I can hammer it in and get them out, but a couple may be too far gone. I can just buy new bolts, but I have to get these four out first. Room for tools is VERY limited.

I saw a post where someone use a dremel and a cold chisel to knock the heads off. I don't have a air chisel. Any bright ideas out there?

Bill Ball

Well, definitely try the correct tool first. You need to wedge it in so it can't back out. There may be another way to do it, but I used the TT clamp flange jammed and tightened against the end of the 12 pt and turned it with the correct size Gearwrench.

One of the guys here, Bob, was confrinted with stuck ones. He may have more ideas.

928ntslow

Yea, I read that post Bill. What is the actual head size of the bolt and what is the tool called? I need to run to Napa tomorrow and see if they have one.

Wedging my hand in there was all I could think of and that worked for 6 of the 10 bolts. I like the gear wrench idea. I guess if this doesn't work, I get the dremel and cut a few cross sections in the head and chisel away.

Mrmerlin

I would go to Sears and get a craftsman 12 point, now is the time to buy the correct tools for your car you need 6mm,8mm 10mm,12mm .... 12 point or cheese heads, different sizes will fit different bolts and if you dont like your purchase just return them, also get a set of Craftsman gear wrenches. OK so its not the cheapest but you wont be looking for a dremel to remove flywheel bolts.

Black Sea RD

And while you are at Sears get a set of bolt extractors that you use once you round of the bolt corners or on allen or cheese head bolts after they are too reemed out to remove any other way. Just another option for you besides the Dremel route. You can carefully hammer the extractor on the offending bolt and then twist it off with a socket and extension for leverage. It has left hand twist flutes that grab onto the outside of the bolt as you turn it counter-clockwise. They are very handy to have in the tool box.

Mr. Merlin is right, use the correct tools to begin with. BTDT too many times when using incorrect tools when I was in a hurry or too lazy/cheap to go get the correct ones.

HTH,
Constantine

Vilhuer

Official name for the shape is XZN head.

ZEUS+

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100512
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TWO-I...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SNAP-...spagenameZWDVW

AO

Also called a "Tripple Square"

JP Rodkey

I'll post what I wrote on the other thread. Rotate the engine to get the bolt in the best position and use a cold chisel. Put the head of the chisel so that the first couple of strokes puts a crease into the bolt, then angle the chisel for a couple more strokes forcing the bolt in the CCW direction. Worked great for me and didn't take a huge amount of force. Once the bolt moves only a couple degrees, it should come out the rest of the way by hand.

RyanPerrella

KEith,

Why are you replacing your RMS?

Sorry I am not up to speed on all the REnnlist events, i just got back home yesterday and I need to put my car back together. (its been sitting for 3 months on jackstands with no flywheel or clutch as i am also replacing my RMS after the previous new one leaked.) So i am curious what happened to yours, I cant figure out why my new one leaked, so i am all ears on this one.

Bill Ball

12mm triple sqaure cut short so it can fit between the clamp and flywheel with TT still in-place.




Not much room...

928ntslow

All great suggestions!
Zues, that is exactly the extractor I was thinking of!
Bill, those are the same bits I have, Erkka and Zues show the ones I SHOULD have used.
Ryan, my 82 Euro is getting a refresh as it was poorly maintained in it's life and is leaking oil from several areas....for starters.

I don't think these bolts have been touched since the car was built.

I WILL get this thing finished today! I still have two front cam seals I have to get to....aside from a bad radiator.

Thanks again gentleman, your advice is good.

karl ruiter

How about a right angle drill motor and a stubby drill bit?

StratfordShark

Another vote here for the Irwin extractors which have saved me on several occasions on the 928 and other vehicles. On cheese heads you only have to be able to file a couple of rough flats on the head and the extractors will do the job.

928ntslow

...mmmbITCH

Went to Sears and paid too damn much for the "Twist and Shouts". I hate Sears...freakin ****'s. I never used the extractors though. I got out the Dremel and sliced the heads in half, then slammed them with a cold chisel and the caved. It was easy..thanks for the tips! Luckily, I have a spare engine for parts and pulled 4 nice bolts off of that fly wheel.

The seal was the original, I could almost guarantee it. I had to scrap (carefully!) the left over rubber from the seal stuck to the block edge (see the seal in the photo). New seal went in with only minor hassles. It always takes a little bit to get the right angle to tap tap tap around and seat the sucker.

It got too dang cold to deal with though I had the garage door closed and two space heaters on Hi. I'll button things up on Monday afternoon.

BTW, Sears didn't have the 12 point drivers. I spoke to 2 separate guys about different tools and neither one knew their *** from a hole in the ground. Guess I'm shopping at Ebay!