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Adding Murf's S/C 85 Kit ? for happy owners.

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Old 12-05-2007, 07:07 PM
  #31  
Tim Murphy
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Tampa,

You will require very minimum tuning with this kit, if any. Should pretty much be plug and play. I have found that taking away 1 degree of timing per 1 psi boost virtually eliminates any knock on the S4 cars so that is the plan for the 85-86 cars.

Your car will make about 8 psi and the ezk chip I will give you will gradually pull out timing up to 10 degrees and redline in the WOT map. I pretty much follow the boost line through the rpm's and take out timing accordingly.

The tuning will come when you change injectors to larger ones, which I can see you doing in the future.

Baby steps my friend.

400 rwhp today will get you 500 rwhp in the future.
Old 12-05-2007, 09:29 PM
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Any one have a Lc-1 for sale?
Old 12-05-2007, 10:34 PM
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Abby
Do you have the model number of the I/C or the size?
Thanks Mark
Old 12-05-2007, 11:29 PM
  #34  
PorKen
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Get one of these off an S4, and you can put in a knock sensor in the front valley plug for a knock warning light.

Old 12-06-2007, 08:40 AM
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Roger are you reading this?

Get one of these off an S4, and you can put in a knock sensor in the front valley plug for a knock warning light.
Old 12-06-2007, 09:44 AM
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Abby Normal
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Abby
Do you have the model number of the I/C or the size?
Thanks Mark
It's a front mounted 1010cfm Spearco intercooler with circulation fan. Don't have the exact part number and working on getting pictures.

Top view of the mock up plumbing as we discussed.



I'll work on getting a photo of the mounting.
Old 12-06-2007, 09:52 AM
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Thanks Abby your the man!
Old 12-06-2007, 11:06 AM
  #38  
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You guys will love this

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/395940-knock-sensing-and-correction.html
Old 12-06-2007, 06:20 PM
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Why do I feel I'm opening myself to a whole lot of work My eyes are sore from reading !!!!!!!!
Old 12-06-2007, 10:23 PM
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Tim is suggesting a norrow band Ox sensor and boost gauge I can only find wide band what am I missing?
Old 12-06-2007, 10:31 PM
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This is the only one I found on E-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-1-16-TINTED-AI...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 12-06-2007, 10:49 PM
  #42  
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You already have a narow band. You just need the A/F guage.
Old 12-06-2007, 11:28 PM
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Thats what I thought then why does everyone suggest a wide band? I have a place to put an additional sensor "wide band" if required but do I not need this?
Looking for a boost gauge also any brands seems like the Lm-1 is a ton of money.
Old 12-06-2007, 11:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Thats what I thought then why does everyone suggest a wide band? I have a place to put an additional sensor "wide band" if required but do I not need this?
Looking for a boost gauge also any brands seems like the Lm-1 is a ton of money.
The LM1 is a lot cheaper than broken pistons, blown head gaskets,etc .

The reason for a wide band is that it is accurate over a wide range, not just a narrow range around 14.7-1.
Old 12-06-2007, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Thats what I thought then why does everyone suggest a wide band? I have a place to put an additional sensor "wide band" if required but do I not need this?
Looking for a boost gauge also any brands seems like the Lm-1 is a ton of money.
Narrow band is more like an on / off gauge. It will tell you if you are lean or rich, it will not tell you how lean or how rich and they only really work at WOT or at least under acceleration.

Wide band will tell you down to the 10th how lean / rich / stoich your air fuel is.

As Tim said before, there is nothing in the Stage 1 kit that will allow you to change anything or do any fine tuning (since there is no need for this). So, why spend the money on a gauge, with a primary function of fine tuning?

A narrow band is "good enough" to tell you if the engine is where it's supposed to be. If the green is suddenly yellow (stoich) or red (lean) you know something is wrong, so keep your foot off of the go pedal.

I've been running nothing but a boost & narrow band gauge since day one of my project. My setup is a one off custom that required a lot of tuning. Since I never tune on the street (only the dyno) I use the wide band built into the dyno. For my car, the narrow band is all I need to make sure my air fuel is where I tuned it for on the dyno.

I know there are a lot of people who will argue why I'm off base with this. I agree with tim, since there is nothing you can change anyway, you will not gain anything with a wide band except knowing exactly what your air / fuel is versus knowing you are rich / stoich / or lean.


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