Re-finishing the Spider (Intake)
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Re-finishing the Spider (Intake)
Hello,
I'm removing the spider from my '84 to re-do the vacuum lines, clean the injectors, replace some fuel lines, etc.
While the intake is off I'd like to have it cleaned up or painted. I prefer a "factory correct" look. Can these parts be tumbled? My powder coater says he really doesn't have an aluminum type color.
Rattle can isn't very durable.
What's a guy to do?
Thanks!
I'm removing the spider from my '84 to re-do the vacuum lines, clean the injectors, replace some fuel lines, etc.
While the intake is off I'd like to have it cleaned up or painted. I prefer a "factory correct" look. Can these parts be tumbled? My powder coater says he really doesn't have an aluminum type color.
Rattle can isn't very durable.
What's a guy to do?
Thanks!
#2
The Lady's Man
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No aluminum type color? Check around with others, they exist. What about bead blasting them and then spraying them with some sort of sealer? I am sure others with experience in this area will speak up soon. Good luck with it.
#3
I've repainted my 86 1/2 intake and wings Ford Red using Duplicolor 500-degree paint. It seems to be a lustrous but soft coating, although time will tell if the paint bakes on more firmly.
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while you're doing this, have you looked at the injector lines to see if they are crimped (holes deformed, not uniform opening, etc.)???????
same for lines from fuel distributor to cold start injector, warm up regulator, etc...
if they are in bad shape, you can drill out the openings, starting with a very small drill bit and work to a larger one. be sure to flush well with solvent to remove any debris.
be extremely careful to not bind the bit in the line, or drill through the line wall. you are only going to clean up the hole, not make it really BIG.
this will help the engine to have the same fuel delivery to each cylinder, making it run smoother (although you may not be able to tell, trust me, it works).
take care to not over torque the lines when installing.
---Russ
same for lines from fuel distributor to cold start injector, warm up regulator, etc...
if they are in bad shape, you can drill out the openings, starting with a very small drill bit and work to a larger one. be sure to flush well with solvent to remove any debris.
be extremely careful to not bind the bit in the line, or drill through the line wall. you are only going to clean up the hole, not make it really BIG.
this will help the engine to have the same fuel delivery to each cylinder, making it run smoother (although you may not be able to tell, trust me, it works).
take care to not over torque the lines when installing.
---Russ
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#8
Burning Brakes
I would polish it. It is more work but it looks more exotic. I was thinking of doing this on my '85 intale but the material is different and won't last so my only option is to paint/powder coat.
#9
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not much of a chore to r & r 16V intakes.
CIS is pretty much straight forward, L-JET has wiring issues.
Having both powdercoated (if need a CIS, I have one powdercoated RED for sale) and natural intakes, I would have them powdercoated, chrome plated, or anodized----not polished.
I have enough work just trying to keep everything aluminum polished on my Peterbilt (8 wheels, 2 fuel tanks, 2 air tanks, radiator shell, 4 tool boxes, fully enclosed chain cabinet, ad nauseum....)
---Russ
CIS is pretty much straight forward, L-JET has wiring issues.
Having both powdercoated (if need a CIS, I have one powdercoated RED for sale) and natural intakes, I would have them powdercoated, chrome plated, or anodized----not polished.
I have enough work just trying to keep everything aluminum polished on my Peterbilt (8 wheels, 2 fuel tanks, 2 air tanks, radiator shell, 4 tool boxes, fully enclosed chain cabinet, ad nauseum....)
---Russ
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While were on this is there much involved in removing the spider?
Slacken the 2 clamps on each intake rubber hose, squirt silicon under the hoses & slide them down each intake.
Slacken a clamp on the tube between 2 of the intakes nearest the windscreen.
Slacken the clamp under the spider holding the bottom of the spider in the rubber ring using a long screwdriver.
lift the spider and undo the 2 bolts at the front holding the cold start device
all done
Marton
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I had quite a few of the underhood components painted and clear coated. Same paints as are used on the outside of cars. You want to find a small shop that will take the time to do a proper baked enamel job on your small parts. All the parts I had done look great, have stood up perfectly for 20,000 miles and 6 years, and colour choices are unlimited. Cheaper than powder coating too. Very easy to keep clean. All normal engine soil just wipes off with a cloth. As far as temperature resistance goes, automotive finishes need to survive the temperatures reached by dark colours in the desert sun indefinitely. If temperatures in the engine compartment reach levels that could damage a professionally applied automotive finish, you have much bigger problems than a few bubbles in your intake paint . I don't have any good pictures at hand, but the following shot gives you an idea.
#12
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Wow Eric! That is beautiful!
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 12-03-2007 at 11:06 PM. Reason: Eric, not Ed sorry, I must be blind!
#14
Drifting
I just had a set powdercoated silver after I smoothed the casting marks out and they came out perfect. I can't wait to see what they look like on the 5.4L 16 valve we are putting them on...
#15
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Sort of related...
Does anybody else see the advantage in appearance from putting the clamps on so the worm gear sections and the tails are underneath? I like the nice clean look of clamps that are tastedfully out of sight as much as possible.
I don't have a spider intake so can't show it that way.
Does anybody else see the advantage in appearance from putting the clamps on so the worm gear sections and the tails are underneath? I like the nice clean look of clamps that are tastedfully out of sight as much as possible.
I don't have a spider intake so can't show it that way.