Bearing madness
#47
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#48
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The tech bulletin in the above thread shows the revised TO bearing, release arm and sleeve and one less shim starting in 1992 (ie probably 93MY) and then becoming the replacement for 87MY as stocks of the old version were used up.
#49
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'93 MY yearly change document lists clutch change as one of the changes, there is no mention of it in '92 MY document yet. I have also seen older style clutch in few '92 MY GTS including my own which still had original never opened clutch when I got it.
#50
Three Wheelin'
#51
Under the Lift
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#53
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Bill,
In the old days the Priests used to wear hair shirts and whip themselves for penance. I think you have found a better way.
I did the same job - 45 minutes alone on the tilter. Another hour to install the new parts and a couple hours for the bearings, seals and rebuilding the torque tube. With third party parts the total cost was under $100. I also rebolted the rear flex plate. Drilling out the rivets makes getting the inner bearing off a snap.
When I picked up the front trans seal at the dealer the first thing out of the parts tech mouth was to change the inner O ring. Sure enough it was split and leaking. I guess sometimes the dealer knows what they are talking about.
The only cut I made was the one on the bottom of the bell housing. No need to remove the bellhousing. You do, like you noted, have to move the trans back and undoing the emergency brake cables and disconnect the shift cable. Removing the wires on the inside of the car for the O2 sensor and feeding them outside is also a must.
While in there I lubed the shifter and added some spray foam insulation to prevent heat transfer into the cabin. Made a huge difference in the operation of the A/C.
After I finished I looked at another auto car I recently bought to discover someone made the same cut in the bell housing, so I guess the procedure is not a new one.
With enough space the torque converter bolts are easily reached. I have been lazy lately and with the rain have been on a cleaning and sorting binge. So the car is back on the tilter awaiting new cooler hoses and some exhaust system work. Those local are welcome to come by and take a look. Although I now have the cooler hoses so the next good bit of sun the car gets off the tilter.
After i get done with some web development for my business I will post pictures and a description of the entire job.
Dan the Pod Guy
In the old days the Priests used to wear hair shirts and whip themselves for penance. I think you have found a better way.
I did the same job - 45 minutes alone on the tilter. Another hour to install the new parts and a couple hours for the bearings, seals and rebuilding the torque tube. With third party parts the total cost was under $100. I also rebolted the rear flex plate. Drilling out the rivets makes getting the inner bearing off a snap.
When I picked up the front trans seal at the dealer the first thing out of the parts tech mouth was to change the inner O ring. Sure enough it was split and leaking. I guess sometimes the dealer knows what they are talking about.
The only cut I made was the one on the bottom of the bell housing. No need to remove the bellhousing. You do, like you noted, have to move the trans back and undoing the emergency brake cables and disconnect the shift cable. Removing the wires on the inside of the car for the O2 sensor and feeding them outside is also a must.
While in there I lubed the shifter and added some spray foam insulation to prevent heat transfer into the cabin. Made a huge difference in the operation of the A/C.
After I finished I looked at another auto car I recently bought to discover someone made the same cut in the bell housing, so I guess the procedure is not a new one.
With enough space the torque converter bolts are easily reached. I have been lazy lately and with the rain have been on a cleaning and sorting binge. So the car is back on the tilter awaiting new cooler hoses and some exhaust system work. Those local are welcome to come by and take a look. Although I now have the cooler hoses so the next good bit of sun the car gets off the tilter.
After i get done with some web development for my business I will post pictures and a description of the entire job.
Dan the Pod Guy
#54
Drifting
I'm in downtown Cairo, and there are about a dozen bearing shops within a stone's throw from my hotel, wierd!
Going to get a selection of the small bearings mentioned earlier, it would be foolish not to.
Can anyone confirm the rear wheel bearing number, just in case I can get one at a silly price?
Any others worth considering?
Going to get a selection of the small bearings mentioned earlier, it would be foolish not to.
Can anyone confirm the rear wheel bearing number, just in case I can get one at a silly price?
Any others worth considering?
#56
Rennlist Member
Cooling fan bearing
Cooling fan bearing on 1990 S4 (from the factory)
The front bearing (fan end): NSK 608Z2 C4
The rear is a bush.
This bearing is shielded both sides and has an off centre groove running the circumference. The groove was towards the fan on mine.
Made in England so hopefully better quality than several other options out there.
Cheap ($6)
The front bearing (fan end): NSK 608Z2 C4
The rear is a bush.
This bearing is shielded both sides and has an off centre groove running the circumference. The groove was towards the fan on mine.
Made in England so hopefully better quality than several other options out there.
Cheap ($6)
#57
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Remember to get a left-handed bearing for this duty if you live in the southern hemisphere, where everything spins in the opposite direction. It's the coreolis vortex effect I think.
#58
Rennlist Member
But then you will need left handed ***** and dress to the left as well! I live in the southern hemisphere, and I dress to the left, but I use std ***** and bearings...
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
#59
Rennlist Member
Very funny Dr Bob. At least in the southern hemisphere things go naturally in the right direction - clockwise.
Perhaps if I put the bearing in the otherway around it would anti-wear?
Cheers,
Myles
Perhaps if I put the bearing in the otherway around it would anti-wear?
Cheers,
Myles
#60
Under the Lift
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The only cut I made was the one on the bottom of the bell housing. No need to remove the bellhousing. You do, like you noted, have to move the trans back and undoing the emergency brake cables and disconnect the shift cable.
After I finished I looked at another auto car I recently bought to discover someone made the same cut in the bell housing, so I guess the procedure is not a new one.
With enough space the torque converter bolts are easily reached.
After i get done with some web development for my business I will post pictures and a description of the entire job.
Dan the Pod Guy
Dan the Pod Guy
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-25-2008 at 04:41 AM.