John Struthers

VU,
By all means proceed! Experimentation is always a cool thing.
But you have to realize you do have a hazard with O2 storage and use.
Do not minimize the power of O2 under ignition, as a pressurized source with a a variety of possible escape points in the delivery system.
Yeah, you might say just as many leak sources with NOS. And you would be right. However, as mentioned they are two different animals. Experiment: Low pressure system under 8lbs of feed line pressure for O2. Use as much NOS line pressure as you want.
Get a flexline attached from a regulated NOS source.
At the loose end attach a mild steel metal pipe. About 3/8" in dia. or better, and 4 -5 feet long.
Get a fire going with some wood - a lump of bituminous or anthracite coal would be best - or charcoal briquets should work.
Have a scrap engine block nearby, maybe a solid block of steel, or even something thin like a 3/4 to 1 inch thick piece of hardened steel -a piece of railroad track-.
Once the fire is going place the rod in the fire where you can watch the tip and open the valve /regulator, SLOWLY! Don't blow the fire away or out.
Observe what it does to the ignition source, and to the pipe.
Hotter fire? Quicker Burn? What?
Now do the same with a straight oxygen source.
If you keep the pressure under 2lbs, with the tip in the fire so as not to blow the fire away, or, consume the wood, coal, briquets to fast.
Within - about - a minute you should notice the tip turn orange then white, then start to melt and sputter like a sparkler. While it is still sparkling lay the tip of the rod on top of the engine block, block of steel, or steel plate.
Let it puddle - metal on block and pipe start to flow like you are using a cutting torch. Open up the regulator.
You can now either blow a hole thru the block or cut it in half, QUICKLY ! How quick is determined by how many pounds of O2 pressure is used, At about 10psi the 'fire' stops on the pipe but it keeps on using the O2 jet to cut using the puddle from whatever you are cutting. Of course there will be molten steel flying every where, a fire proof suit with hood and gloves are essential above 15psi. At 115 psi you should have cut thru a chevy small block in under 30 seconds.
I'm talking 2 seperate pieces here. AWESOME!
If you can't gather the equipment rent an old movie; The Thief, starring James Caan.
Bottom line once O2 has an ignition source either a planned ignition or otherwise as long as there is pressure in the line it will ignite, then turn anything your car is made of into ash or slag.
Pistons, rings, cylinder jackets, under dash/hood stuff...any and all of it. And as mentioned in one or two above replies we haven't even gotton to pure detonation. The burn cycle if ignited would be hideously quick. You wouldn't get to make a mistake on retard, one chance only. And the electricity in water for O2 extraction would be bulky provide only 'free release' of O2 , then you would have to find a way to compress it. If it isn't compressed you are not going to realize any performance boost. I see no way of installing all of the required sub systems to extract and compress the O2 ( we don't have the room and then there is weight) then you still need a metering system, cut off system an ejection seat and a giant CO2 fire bottle. Experimenting will give you knowledge VU, but it will alert you to the risks as well. give it a shot for grins, but from where I'm at it's a dead end.
If you gotta' do forced gas, go NOS,

ViribusUnits

Wow! I gotta try that! Well, maybe not, but that sounds cool! Old Briggs and Straton block, here I come!

Clearly, you would not want to replace all of the N2 in the intake air with O2. I'm not even sure if thats possible. About the only way to do that is connect the entire engine intake to the bottle. Deffently NOT what I even thought of doing. Best I can see if a few precentage points of N2 replaced with O2. Maybe 80% N2 with 40% O2 at most. That should also increase the power of the engine to about 200% it's non boosted value. 200 hp shot on a plain old 928. I'm not testing that one!

I figured that should keep me from burning the block. If I find excess heat on the intake valve is a problem, I would have to add an injection point for water to keep them cool. That would down grade the over all proformance of the system, but...

I figured I'd try an experement on a Lawn mower engine first. They can be pretty cheap, and easy to disasymble.

Anyways, the O2 purification numbers arn't working quite like I wanted. Next!

Z

There's something else that may need to be taken into consideration. Nitrous is stored as a liquid under pressure in the bottle, and goes through the phase change to a gas as it is sprayed into the engine, which causes major charge cooling. The O2 would be stored under pressure in a bottle too, but I don't know if it's under enough pressure to be in liquid form then or not. If it's in the bottle as a compressed gas instead of as a liquid, there would still be a temperature drop as it's sprayed into the engine, but I don't know if it would be as much without the phase change from liquid to gas.

mark kibort

how about using the heat from exhaust manifolds to turn a steam turbine and have that drive a compressor????? internal combustion engines are only 20% efficient, wouldnt it be nice to take that 80% and put it to use!!

MK

ViribusUnits

I've already looked into that. Unforchantly, there are huge problems.

Steam boiler/turbine systems get about 30% efficency, under ideal, industry conditons. To get that 30% efficency, you need a power plant sized unit. Because a car is so much smaller, a steam unit would get only a few precentage points, and the weight and maintance would be awful. Maybe 10% of the heat energy in the exaust, and the instilation would weigh about as much, or more than our current V8.

Not happening, to say the least!

Andrew B.

Vu,

Why don't you just call up Nitrous Express and find out about their systems? At least you'll know that people with 928s have succesfully done it with NX systems.

Also, I'm with you no the O2 plan with a little bit of chemistry...but this is 928, so if you have good results then two thumbs up and an A+ for your chemistry project, but if something happens to your motor, then that's it. Time to get the cherry picker and about $3000 for an engine swap.

If you only had a couple of 928s lined up "in case of anything", know what i mean?

-Andrew
'87 S4 (soon to have 100 shots)
'84 S

ViribusUnits

Ain't no way in he** I'm testing on my 928!!!!

I've got an old 2 cylinder Briggs and Straton engine. Its out of a old lawn mower. Funney thing about that old mower, everyone I've never seen, the deck, and transmittion were worn out, but the engine was a good a new. Oh well. I'll make a good testing bed for me.

Once I'm confident that I know what I'm doing, I'll try it on a car. Maybe buy a 924 for testing. Eighter that, or something like a Ford Probe. Once I'm confident that it works, I'll think about putting it on my 928.

I'm not blowing up my 928S, I worked to hard to get it!

mark kibort

NOS from NOSexpress worked great on the part euro 5liter and all versions before. 50hp shot setting worked great. even was able to disassemble the engine after 2 seasons of NOS useage on the track. Probably about 15 bottles used. no unusual appearances on valves, pistons or bearings. (and why would there be!?)

So, the only tricky part is the NOS/fuel jet, but I have all the size numbers of the jets, and the orientation of the jet too. (hint, it takes the place ofthe aux. air input for the A/C unit.

happy boosting

928ntslow

I know this is a late response, but yes, I have Mark's NOS set up sitting in my garage....along with his Euro intakes/throttle body, fuel regs, and a set of MSDS headers I bought elsewhere.

I swear, one of these days they will all be installed!

I have had folks say I am crazy for wanting to rig a NOS kit to the 928 motor, but to be honest, I haven't heard of anyone blowing up a 928 engine because of it yet. Besides, these kits don't have the same set up they used to creating the legend of granading pistons.

I haven't decided on the 50 or 100 shot, but I will start out with the 50. I expect that installing the other goodies listed above will make a noticable difference in performance on their own.

Mark, you can bet when I do the install, we will be chatting more often <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Looks like this spring will be the time to do the mods. I need to do the front end engine service first. Sprockets, belts, pump, tensioner and electric fan install/rebuild seems to be essential before bolting on some "Umphhh"

Anyone else out there have any experience besides Mark with "juicing" the 928?

Keith Widom