Ever since I've had my car, my brakes have been squeaky. Just recently they've gotten even worse, so I finally decided to buy some new brake pads. After reading through some threads, I decided to go with the Mintex Streets from 928 Specialists.

Now, I have no idea how to change the pads. Everybody says its really simple, so I figure I can do it no problem, but I want to make sure I do it right. I looked around and couldn't really find a guide anywhere that said exactly what to do to change the pads on an '81. I saw a few things that mentioned changing the pads on S4s, but I'm not sure how different they are compared to OB brakes, and I want to make sure everything goes smoothly.

I've never changed the brake pads on any car before, so if somebody could maybe post some detailed directions I'd really appreciate it. I think my neighbors' ears would appreciate it too; these brakes are ridiculously squeaky.

Thanks

 

Follow this link... http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html. Probably the easiest "real" work you can do.

 

Not too bad, but you need to take some care in doing the job. Some of the hex bolts up front are covered up by a rubber bung. You'll likely need a good c-clamp to force open the calipers before getting the new pads in.

Nota bene: be very careful with the small brake pad sensor wires. These have a very small retaining clip that must be reinserted into the new pads. When you pull them out of the old pads, check for wear. If you remove them carefully and they are not scratched, then you can reuse them; much easier than needing new ones.

PM me if you'd like more help. Been there done that.

Good luck.

 

Also note that squealing may not be due to worn pads, but to pad vibration. there are a host of goops and greases available at autoparts stores to be applied between the pad and piston to alleviate this problem. I don't know if it is the case with '81s, but my '88 has special vibration damping pads that proved to be the only effective way for me to end brake squeal. Call 928Int'l, 928Specialists, or 928Motorsports to get some for your brake job; I can't recommend the goop!

 

My last set of front pads were Mintex street.........wore them out in a years worth of street driving (~10k kms)......very dusty and sqealed despite OEM dampers.

I'm now on PBR ceramics.........little dust, no sqeal and man do they lock those wheels to the point I've flat spots.

Call Roger................928sRus

 

........"Before removing the pad attempt to press it against the caliper to push the piston back into the caliper. This will push fluid back into the reservoir so check for spilling. Other methods of pushing the pistons back into the caliper include using a brake piston compressor tool, a piece of wood and a C-clamp, a screwdriver or other tool as a lever, etc"...........



I must disagree with this - in my experience, pushing fluid back through the master cylinder and into the reservoir causes a very soft pedal that takes a lot of bleeding to cure. And if it is a car with ABS, it is even worse.
My procedure:
- before retracting the piston, attach a bleed hose (and bottle) to the bleed screw, open the bleed screw about 1/2 turn, THEN push the pistons back. The old (overheated and dirty) fluid gets bled out of the caliper.

And as for...."using some tool as a lever", be careful what you are "levering on".....

After everything is completely assembled, and the brake system has been "pumped up", make sure that the reservoir is topped up.

 

usually squeaky pads are due to how they are bedded, and /or how they have worn in. if the rotors are not in really good shape, they could have groove patterns that could cause another new set of pads to squeak too. the backing plates or " guu" can help too. starting with new rotors and pads usually can stop the squeak! I have racing pads with new rotors and they dont squeal on the street.
pushing the pads in to the calipers is fine. if the fluid is old, it pushes the old fluid back to the res. That may be a bad thing. It doesnt make pedal soft in my experience, and i probably change pads more than anyone and thats how i do it. what can cause a soft pedal is the vacuum bleeder and ABS systems.
mk

 

I am running PBR on both 928's. Only good experiences with them so far.

 

Same deal here. New Mintex Street with OEM dampers and they squeal.

Matt

 

An 81 has different brakes altogether - single piston sliding caliper. Havent had to do mine yet, but I think the caliper has to be unbolted from the hub on at least one bolt so it can swig clear of disc and allow pads to be removed - I doubt they can be pulled out the top as in an S4...
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k.

 

PBR Ceramic pads...do they wear well? Thought Ceramic pads wear faster than metallics, like the Mintex.

[another confirmation for lots of dust and some squeal out of the Mintex I'm currently using]

 

Wow, I had to idea people were having problems with the Mintex Street pads squealing. I read through a few threads on the pads and most people said they were quiet and had minimal dust.

Anybody else try the CRC?

So, just how different are they? Does, anybody have step-by-step directions for an '81? I appreciate all the help so far, but I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I start.

Thanks

 

I've used the CRC stuff on cars, trucks, and motorcycles. It works.

1. The calipers you have do have pads that can be removed while the caliper remains on the vehicle.
2. There are two pins that run across the top of the calipers and go through some holes drilled through the pads. They are retainers for the pads. They must come out. You're on your own for that. Shouldn't be difficult to remove them though.
3. Under the 2 pins should be a tension spring. This should come out as soon as the pads are removed.
4. Once the spring and two pins are out of the way, you'll need to push the piston back into the caliper. You can do this using a screwdriver as a pry-bar. Or you can use a small pry-bar.
5. Use a small screwdriver to pry the old pads from the top of the caliper. As I said, they should come out of the top like an S4 brake.
6. Spray 2-3 fairly heavy coats of the CRC stuff on the back of each pad. Allow to dry for 15-20 minutes because the stuff is very sticky and allowing it to dry some makes the pads easier to handle.
7. You'll have noticed at this point that the piston portion of the caliper slides on the bracket that bolts to the spindle. Installation of the pads is the reverse of removal and if it's too tight to get a pad to drop into place, you should be able to shift the caliper around some to get the pad to drop into place. After the pads drop in reinstall the tension spring and the retaining pins.
8. After everything is buttoned up, bleed the brakes until fresh clean fluid comes out of the bleeder screw.

Sorry if these instructions seem vague. The job is pretty straightforward and relatively intuitive. If you have trouble post some pics and I'll try to assist.

 

This paticular link has been posted before, but I thought it was a good read on brake bedding.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

 

I'm looking at the WSM and I'm slightly confused. Does my '81 have floating frame caliper disc brakes or floating caliper disk brakes? I think I have floating frame, but I want to make sure.

Thanks