replacing rear halfshafts
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,973
Likes: 1
From: Farmington Hills, MI
replacing rear halfshafts
Well, my car started making a very distinct clunking from the left rear wheel that is speed dependent. It kind of sounds like the chain used to haul cars up the track on a roller coaster. It is only speed dependent and cornering has no affect on it. I'm guessing it's the outer CV joint. Any one else have experience with this? It doesn't sound anything like a wheel bearing. That said, I'm going to put it up on a lift tomorrow and take a thorough look at it. Assuming it's the joint, it will get a new halfshaft. I guess my next question is should the bearing be replaced while the shaft is out? On my other Audis I've had wheel bearings fail relatively shortly after changing the halfshaft out. Just wondering if the bearings mind this in these cars.
Thanks for any advice
Thanks for any advice
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,656
Likes: 2
From: Central New Jersey, where 287 and 78 meet.
To get the half shaft out your really all ready there to replace the bearing. Just a matter of pulling the carrier completely off and pressing the bearings out and in. If I remember right they were in the $70 range when I did mine.
I think I would do it.
I think I would do it.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,210
Likes: 17
From: Nova Scotia
The double cage rear bearings can outlast the car ... so first determine the current problem. If it is the CV, and the wheel spins smoothly with the halfshaft removed, I'd be inclined to leave the bearing alone.
The halfshaft can be an easy DIY: so can the carrier removal ... but the stub removal from the carrier is likely a trip to the machine shop, followed by a trip to the alignment rack when assembled.
Otherwise, prevailing logic might indicate that if one bearing is replaced, why stop there ... do the other side too
The halfshaft can be an easy DIY: so can the carrier removal ... but the stub removal from the carrier is likely a trip to the machine shop, followed by a trip to the alignment rack when assembled.
Otherwise, prevailing logic might indicate that if one bearing is replaced, why stop there ... do the other side too
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,237
Likes: 4,221
From: Philly PA
replace the half shaft and retighten things, spinning the wheel without the halfshaft installed might not tell you if the bearing is still good, it needs to have the shaft in it to work properly.The hub flange may keep things tight enough for spinning but the CV joint being torqued is the best way to test the bearing. The bearing can also be replaced with the housing in the car its a bit of heating with a MAP gas torch , and you must have the new bearing in the freezer for atleast 2 hours to cold soak it before reinstalling it into the heated carrier. Its a good bet that if one half shaft is bad then the other isnt far behind, so you might get a deal if you buy 2 , as always then the halfshaft system will be good for another 15 to 20 years. If you do remove the bearing then pay carful attention to the lower link pin this goes through the lower shock mount, the RR is more commonly bent due to hitting curbs and such, a used link pin will work. Stan
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,973
Likes: 1
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Well, it turns out it wasn't the rear halfshaft at all. Last weekend I was adjusting my parking brake so it would work. Well, the cable broke after I tensioned it. Fast forward to yesterday. The piece that pushes the brake shoes apart popped out since it wasn't held in by the cable, I guess when I hit a bump. It was rubbing against one of the wheel studs making the noise I mistook for for the CV. 3 hours after work tonight and it's fixed.
