Rear Main-To Lube or not to Lube
#1
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Only if the proctologist has a pack of franks for fingers. Sorry, had to get the obvious joke out of the way.
I'll be replacing my rear main seal following Bill Ball's excellent write up before 3rd Coast. My question is this:
Do I apply a thin coating of oil on the crank surface/seal before I install the seal, or do I want it completely dry? I have been around engine re-builds many times before. My dad's an old hot rodder. We always applied a thin coat of oil to the seal so that it would not burn up on initial start up.
The reason I ask is because my best friend rebuilt an LS1 motor, and right there in black and white, the manual called for the crank and seal to be completley dry and free of oil. I had never heard of this before. Whats the consensus?
Mike V a.k.a Killa V
1987 S4 Auto - Granite Green Metallic
I'll be replacing my rear main seal following Bill Ball's excellent write up before 3rd Coast. My question is this:
Do I apply a thin coating of oil on the crank surface/seal before I install the seal, or do I want it completely dry? I have been around engine re-builds many times before. My dad's an old hot rodder. We always applied a thin coat of oil to the seal so that it would not burn up on initial start up.
The reason I ask is because my best friend rebuilt an LS1 motor, and right there in black and white, the manual called for the crank and seal to be completley dry and free of oil. I had never heard of this before. Whats the consensus?
Mike V a.k.a Killa V
1987 S4 Auto - Granite Green Metallic
#3
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Make sure you have some type of drift. I think some people have made them from PVC fittings. I had one PITA replacing mine. One side would start to go in, and then when you finally think the whole thing is going in, the other side pops out. Very frustrating especially on your back.
I actually ended up using two hammers (1 ball-peen, 1 dead-blow). I would gently tap one side and get it started, then hold the hammer on it and tap 180* to that point. It eventually went.
Oh... and I caoted mine with some oil.
I actually ended up using two hammers (1 ball-peen, 1 dead-blow). I would gently tap one side and get it started, then hold the hammer on it and tap 180* to that point. It eventually went.
Oh... and I caoted mine with some oil.
#5
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I have made a press in tool that is going to use the crank bolts to press the rear seal in. I have been putting this off for months, but am finally going to do it. I will try and take pictures of the install. If it works.
Oil it seems to be the way to go.
Oil it seems to be the way to go.
#6
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Did you have to yank your TT out again?
#7
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I won't have to drop the suspension, but the TT will have to come loose at the front by the bell housing and slide back bout an inch or so with the transmission of course. The write up that I'm using is here:
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm
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#9
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oil the seal , make sure you dont nick the crank when you drive the screwdriver into the slot to remove the old one,