View Poll Results: How should I handle my head gasket R&R?
Pull the engine, you dummy! Are you kidding me?
46
66.67%
Do it in place. Get that thing back on the road in 3 weeks.
9
13.04%
Barr's Leaks and Amsoil - fixes everythign duct tape won't
9
13.04%
Ebay!
5
7.25%
Voters: 69. You may not vote on this poll
When replacing a head gasket: Pull the engine or do it in place?
10-17-2007, 06:27 PM
#32
In the words of the great WaltK, "Real men pull engines"
10-17-2007, 08:40 PM
#33
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I have an 1988 S4 and had to do the driver's side head a couple years ago. I don't have an engine jack and didn't feel like buying one for just this job ... so I did it in the car. The later model cars have bolts instead of studs. This gives you a lot more room maneuver the head off. You don't have to unbolt the exhaust manifold, just disconnect the exhaust pipe after the manifold. As I recall, the worst part of the job was getting the throttle body/intake manifold off ... couple bolts on the valve covers were also a pain. Otherwise, it wasn't too bad.
While I had everything off, I had the valve covers and intake powder coated. Don't trust this job to just anyone. The guy that did mine warped the intake and caused me some grief when I assembled everything and it whistled as soon as I started it up. Had to take the intake off again and mill it flat again.
* Note1 - the bearing cap bolts for the cams have a head that looks a little bit like a Torx shape, but it isn't ... it's a "triple-square". Make sure you get the right tool to get these off!
* Note2 - You will need to set the cam timing when you reinstall. There is a special tool kit to do this or you can use a dial indicator. To use a dial indicator you will need to rig up a bolt on plate to mount the base ... hard to use a magnetic base on all aluminum engine.
While I had everything off, I had the valve covers and intake powder coated. Don't trust this job to just anyone. The guy that did mine warped the intake and caused me some grief when I assembled everything and it whistled as soon as I started it up. Had to take the intake off again and mill it flat again.
* Note1 - the bearing cap bolts for the cams have a head that looks a little bit like a Torx shape, but it isn't ... it's a "triple-square". Make sure you get the right tool to get these off!
* Note2 - You will need to set the cam timing when you reinstall. There is a special tool kit to do this or you can use a dial indicator. To use a dial indicator you will need to rig up a bolt on plate to mount the base ... hard to use a magnetic base on all aluminum engine.
10-17-2007, 09:01 PM
#34
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Well - Just got my engine back together after replacing the headgaskets - and it always scares me when it starts on the first crank..... No more white smoke from the exhaust...
So Andrew - this is the first time I've pulled the engine by myself and re-installed in by myself -... I'd recommend recruiting some help.. It took me 1 week start to finish - with help 2-3 days...
Time for a test drive tomorrow and if all is well - start packing for Laguna Seca..
So Andrew - this is the first time I've pulled the engine by myself and re-installed in by myself -... I'd recommend recruiting some help.. It took me 1 week start to finish - with help 2-3 days...
Time for a test drive tomorrow and if all is well - start packing for Laguna Seca..
10-17-2007, 10:29 PM
#37
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Where's that shrine when you need it??? 
10-17-2007, 10:52 PM
#38
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10-18-2007, 02:03 AM
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10-18-2007, 10:08 PM
#43
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On a 16V I don't think there's even an option - the engine has to be pulled. I just pulled my engine and replaced the headgaskets. I've also replaced the cams with the engine in - never again. Not sure about the S4, but I would think that it's almost impossible to thoroughly inspect the block and prep it with it in the car.
I did both with the engine IN the car. Removing the heads on a 16V is pretty easy. Swapping the cams is a cake walk! Doing the same (pulling heads) in an early 32V is a challange, but duable. On a S4-up, it should be much, much easier.
10-18-2007, 11:22 PM
#44
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I was going to do a bit of work with the engine in the car, but then I bought a communter mobile, so now I can take my time and do quite a bit more. With that in mind, I'm thinking I may as well pull it.
Besides allowing me to do more, and to do it better and easier, it will be a learning experience. I've pulled a few motors in my day, but that was on my old Z cars and there was plenty of room to work, and hardly anything to disconnect and unbolt. Ah, the good old days...
10-18-2007, 11:24 PM
#45
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Pull it!! Then pressure wash the heck out of it, then start taking things apart. Pulling it can't take much longer than when I would pull my VW engine from my '71 Beetle. 30 minutes tops. Seen two guys do it in 4 minutes once. Oh yeah, that included putting it back in too. Hand tools only, with floor jack and jack stands. Go get em!!
