Steering rack bushings
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sevierville, TN.
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My rubber steering rack bushings are shot on my 80 US Auto. I think they are part number 928-347-779-03. I'm thinking of installing the aluminum bushings from 928 motorsports. What are the pros and cons? how much more road noise might these cause?
Thanks,
Ron.
Thanks,
Ron.
#3
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nothing but pros as far as I'm concerned. They're cheaper than the OEM rubber bushings. No noticeable increase in NVH through the steering column, just better turn-in 'cause there's no slop now.
EDIT: Carl's mounts are $62.50, the rubber bushings are $19ish each at the big 2. Roger?
EDIT: Carl's mounts are $62.50, the rubber bushings are $19ish each at the big 2. Roger?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#5
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the factory bushings for $15.80 each.
I have also heard very good things about Carl's solid bushes but have not tried them yet.
I have also heard very good things about Carl's solid bushes but have not tried them yet.
__________________
![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1694/8685/files/928sRus_rennlist.png?v=1621798567)
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1694/8685/files/928sRus_rennlist.png?v=1621798567)
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sevierville, TN.
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First of all, thanks to all in helping me choose.
Second, I have a problem. I removed the old steering rack bushings but the new solid bushings seem to be to large. I measured the outside diameter of the solid bushings and they were just over 24mm, the inside of the hole was about 23mm. I don't have exact measurements because my digital caliper batteries are dead. Am I to press these in or do I have a problem?
Thanks,
Ron.
Second, I have a problem. I removed the old steering rack bushings but the new solid bushings seem to be to large. I measured the outside diameter of the solid bushings and they were just over 24mm, the inside of the hole was about 23mm. I don't have exact measurements because my digital caliper batteries are dead. Am I to press these in or do I have a problem?
Thanks,
Ron.
#9
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First of all, thanks to all in helping me choose.
Second, I have a problem. I removed the old steering rack bushings but the new solid bushings seem to be to large. I measured the outside diameter of the solid bushings and they were just over 24mm, the inside of the hole was about 23mm. I don't have exact measurements because my digital caliper batteries are dead. Am I to press these in or do I have a problem?
Thanks,
Ron.
Second, I have a problem. I removed the old steering rack bushings but the new solid bushings seem to be to large. I measured the outside diameter of the solid bushings and they were just over 24mm, the inside of the hole was about 23mm. I don't have exact measurements because my digital caliper batteries are dead. Am I to press these in or do I have a problem?
Thanks,
Ron.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: not where you think I am
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
forgot who it was, maybe Sterling Gee, posted a thread showing how he used ordinary steel flat washers to get the same affect, assuming the busing isn't totally shot?
I believe it was putting a washer on each side of the bushing and tightening it all up so that the steel washer actually fitted inside the area where the bushing resides. The inner diameter of the steel washer should be the same as the attaching bolt so that the rack movement is solid from rack to bolt.
Hope I explained that OK?
Any way, he claimed he did his for pennies.....
-Russ
I believe it was putting a washer on each side of the bushing and tightening it all up so that the steel washer actually fitted inside the area where the bushing resides. The inner diameter of the steel washer should be the same as the attaching bolt so that the rack movement is solid from rack to bolt.
Hope I explained that OK?
Any way, he claimed he did his for pennies.....
-Russ
#12
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ron--
The outer steel shell of the original bushings needs to be extracted from the ears on the rack. IIRC, we used a small flat chisel to pry up the edge on one side, then twisted the sleeve out with small vise-grip pliers. It will be easy once you do the first one. The aluminum bushings may be snug or a little loose, depending on how well the rack ears were finished. I think we tapped one or two in with a small hammer, rest slipped in easily. Even the bushings that don't seem real tight will pull in snug when you tighten the bolts through them.
The outer steel shell of the original bushings needs to be extracted from the ears on the rack. IIRC, we used a small flat chisel to pry up the edge on one side, then twisted the sleeve out with small vise-grip pliers. It will be easy once you do the first one. The aluminum bushings may be snug or a little loose, depending on how well the rack ears were finished. I think we tapped one or two in with a small hammer, rest slipped in easily. Even the bushings that don't seem real tight will pull in snug when you tighten the bolts through them.
#14
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sevierville, TN.
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dr. Bob,
Thanks for the tip. I used a chisel and hammer and successfully removed the old sleeves. I installed the new bushings without any problems.
WOW! What a difference. My old stock bushings must have been really bad. Before replacing with the new solid bushings I had a few degrees of dead play in my steering. Now the steering responds with the littlest input. I love it!. WooHoo!
Thanks to all,
Ron.
Thanks for the tip. I used a chisel and hammer and successfully removed the old sleeves. I installed the new bushings without any problems.
WOW! What a difference. My old stock bushings must have been really bad. Before replacing with the new solid bushings I had a few degrees of dead play in my steering. Now the steering responds with the littlest input. I love it!. WooHoo!
Thanks to all,
Ron.