rdisney

My rubber steering rack bushings are shot on my 80 US Auto. I think they are part number 928-347-779-03. I'm thinking of installing the aluminum bushings from 928 motorsports. What are the pros and cons? how much more road noise might these cause?

Thanks,
Ron.

FlyingDog

Factory ones are less expensive, fit better, can wear out again, and steering supposedly isn't nearly as precise.

Rob Edwards

Nothing but pros as far as I'm concerned. They're cheaper than the OEM rubber bushings. No noticeable increase in NVH through the steering column, just better turn-in 'cause there's no slop now.

EDIT: Carl's mounts are $62.50, the rubber bushings are $19ish each at the big 2. Roger?

FlyingDog

I paid $14-something each for factory bushings plus $4 shipping. I probably won't install them and will instead have solid delrin mounts made.

ROG100

I have the factory bushings for $15.80 each.
I have also heard very good things about Carl's solid bushes but have not tried them yet.

fraggle

One vote for Carl's here.

SharkSkin

I've been very happy with the solid rack bushings I bought from Carl. Really sharpens up steering response.

rdisney

First of all, thanks to all in helping me choose.
Second, I have a problem. I removed the old steering rack bushings but the new solid bushings seem to be to large. I measured the outside diameter of the solid bushings and they were just over 24mm, the inside of the hole was about 23mm. I don't have exact measurements because my digital caliper batteries are dead. Am I to press these in or do I have a problem?

Thanks,
Ron.

FlyingDog

If you're sure you removed the outer steel shell from the old bushings, you have a problem. This is what I was referring to mentioning that factory ones "fit better". You're not the first to have this problem.

largecar379

forgot who it was, maybe Sterling Gee, posted a thread showing how he used ordinary steel flat washers to get the same affect, assuming the busing isn't totally shot?

I believe it was putting a washer on each side of the bushing and tightening it all up so that the steel washer actually fitted inside the area where the bushing resides. The inner diameter of the steel washer should be the same as the attaching bolt so that the rack movement is solid from rack to bolt.

Hope I explained that OK?

Any way, he claimed he did his for pennies.....

-Russ

largecar379

now that i think about, you could put a stack of steel washers where the bushing resides and get the same affect?

-------rhj

dr bob

Ron--

The outer steel shell of the original bushings needs to be extracted from the ears on the rack. IIRC, we used a small flat chisel to pry up the edge on one side, then twisted the sleeve out with small vise-grip pliers. It will be easy once you do the first one. The aluminum bushings may be snug or a little loose, depending on how well the rack ears were finished. I think we tapped one or two in with a small hammer, rest slipped in easily. Even the bushings that don't seem real tight will pull in snug when you tighten the bolts through them.

rdisney

Matt, Thanks, that's my problem. I did not remove the steel sleeve.

Thanks,
Ron.

rdisney

Dr. Bob,

Thanks for the tip. I used a chisel and hammer and successfully removed the old sleeves. I installed the new bushings without any problems.

WOW! What a difference. My old stock bushings must have been really bad. Before replacing with the new solid bushings I had a few degrees of dead play in my steering. Now the steering responds with the littlest input. I love it!. WooHoo!

Thanks to all,
Ron.