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New Product: Precision Shifter Ball Cup

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Old 10-12-2007, 11:13 AM
  #16  
hacker-pschorr
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To get the full effect, you must change out your ball cup out in the yard on the grass, like Carl did Labor Day weekend at RA.

My shopping list for the track car just jumped up, again
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:26 AM
  #17  
BrianG
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Originally Posted by Garth S
Nicely done
You may wish to add an instruction note to adjust the threading depth into the shift rod to bring the shift lever to vertical .... then snug the lock nut.
Is the designed rest position of the shifter vertical, or slightly aft of vertical?
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:49 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
Any ideas for the rear coupler?
A flaming river universal joint works well for the rear. No play at all.
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Old 10-12-2007, 12:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
A flaming river universal joint works well for the rear. No play at all.
I think I've seen that mod in your previous posts. Doesn't it require that the splines be ground off of the shaft? That pre-supposes that the TT is on the bench, in which case the stock coupler would be a breeze to replace. If it can be done while in the car, then I'd like to give it a shot.

I'm thinking of something that will use a pinch collar front and rear that will not slip and allow for the same adjustments (so you can grind down that pin as I had to do in removing the original without any adverse affects.)

Carl,
Sorry for the hijack. You know that every time you come up with something new, all we want is more, more, more...
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Old 10-12-2007, 03:56 PM
  #20  
karl ruiter
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I've always felt there these are just a time bomb. You don't know when it will fail, but you know it will, and when it does you will be stranded. I'll be in line for one.
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Old 10-12-2007, 04:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter
I've always felt there these are just a time bomb. You don't know when it will fail, but you know it will, and when it does you will be stranded. I'll be in line for one.
+1. In fact I had mine go bad in two different modes. First the bushing wore out (popped off, left me stranded).

Then I tried just replacing the bushing, which worked for a while, but then the threaded shaft worked its way loose from of the cup. It was just welded on the end and eventually from stress, it let go. Twenty years is a pretty good run, but the design was not as good as Carl's solution.
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:09 PM
  #22  
Imo000
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Very nice!

I have one concern. Since its' metal on metal, it won't cause any rattling that the S4-up cars will pick up as detonation though the knock snesor?
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:22 PM
  #23  
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yet another sweet product
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:34 PM
  #24  
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Hey Carl that looks like a hi quality permanent fix, nice job, it will last the life of the car, I guess you used Hi temp grease in the ball to coupler fitting, would you recommend blue loctite on the jamb nuts?
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:41 PM
  #25  
Carl Fausett
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The price of the yellow chromate plating just came in, so I have my total
manufacturing cost.

I will list this part at $58.95 for a while and see how she goes. It may have to go up later, but I can start it there.

Will the part rattle? No, because you get to snug up the ball cup onto the shifter ball to remove all slack. No rattle.

Will it wear? No. It isn;t supposed to allow fore-and-aft movement, only a swivel for side-to-side so you can lean the shifter from 1st to 5th, side to side. That movement is so minute it will not wear, especiually with a gob of whell bearing grease in the cup.

The yellow chromate plating is very tough - the abrasion-resistant anti-corrosion plating of choice by top-of-the-line autp manufacturers, like Porsche. Those yellow-gold colored suspension pieces on your 928 are yellow-chromate plated. We are using the same stuff.

As to removing all the play in the rear shifter coupling: I do not recomend that.
The detents on our 928's are in the shift rails, and they are internal, within the transaxle. To remove all the designed-in play in the rear coupling is to prevent the shifter detent ball from settling in the detent where it wants to because the shifter will now be holding a load against it. That constant side-load will promote premature synchro wear and bearing wear. The downside is so expensive and the improvement is so slight I think it is a bad reliability-for-performance swap. I'm not saying if your rear coupling is sloppy not to replace it with a new one from Porsche. Thats a GOOD idea. But note the designed in play in the new part from Porsche - it needs to be there to prevent premature damage to internal pieces.
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:44 PM
  #26  
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Is the designed rest position of the shifter vertical, or slightly aft of vertical?
You should continue to adjust your shift lever to the position in Neutral as described in the Workshop Manual. No changes.
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:09 PM
  #27  
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Carl-- are you still selling this piece? It doesn't appear to be on the website. Any news?
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
I think I've seen that mod in your previous posts. Doesn't it require that the splines be ground off of the shaft? That pre-supposes that the TT is on the bench, in which case the stock coupler would be a breeze to replace. If it can be done while in the car, then I'd like to give it a shot.
It uses the splined metal piece from the rear universal, and you push the pin out, and discard the rest. The splines are not removed.
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:33 PM
  #29  
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Sweet, great idea! Hope someone gets their mits on one for a demo install at the Northeast Wilbraham tech session in a couple weeeks !!
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Old 10-14-2007, 10:02 PM
  #30  
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Carl-- are you still selling this piece? It doesn't appear to be on the website. Any news?
Thank you for your interest.

I have not listed it on my website as we have no stock as yet. They are being machined as we speak, and then they are out to be plated. I expect them in 2 to 3 weeks. I do have one on display at Sharktoberfest.
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