SharkSkin

I'm wondering about this as well. I'll have the TT out when I install this improved cup, and you would think that ought to make it easier, but nooo. The forward bushing that the front shift rod slides through is mounted to the body rather than the TT on my car, from what I've been told.

Anyone BTDT - can I get to the two nuts that hold that bushing in place with the TT in place? If so, then I think I can get the shift linkage all adjusted up with the trans and TT on the ground. This seems like it would be a very fiddly task with the TT in place:

1. Thread ball cup onto rod several turns past where you think it should be.
2. Drop cup over ball, then tighten cup against ball which will simultaneously back threads out of rod.
3. If adjustment is needed, back threads out of cup(and into rod) until cup can be lifted off of ball.
4. Lift cup off of ball and turn threaded rod to lengthen or shorten as needed.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 as needed, then cinch down the locknuts, making sure the cup has room to rotate without binding at either end of its travel.

It occurs to me that with the TT on the ground, it becomes much easier:

1. Thread ball cup onto rod several turns past where you think it should be.
2. Drop cup over ball, then tighten cup against ball which will simultaneously back threads out of rod.
3. Tighten forward jam nut once the desired amount of play is achieved.
4. If adjustment is needed, push pin out of shift lever and rotate rod to move it up or down threaded portion.
5. Reattach shift rod to shifter and check.
6. Repeat steps 4-5 as needed, then cinch down the locknuts, making sure the cup has room to rotate without binding at either end of its travel.

My concern is that if I can't get to the two nuts that hold that bushing in place, I will have to mount the cup to the front of the TT, then lift the front of the TT into place with the trans on the ground and the shifter disconnected from the front rod, attach the bushing, then lift the trans/TT into place & connect up the shifter. Hmmm... come to think of it, that doesn't sound too terrible.

Ispeed

I have done two of them, using Loctite is the help for not being able to get a good angle on the lock nuts.
Just get the adjustment close, and then go to the rear coupler to fine tune the angle of the shifter fore/aft.

Mrmerlin

Dave all I can offer you is that the cup[ must be centered and it is a trial and fit proceedure (by centered) I mean that after you put some grease in the cup and you have it close to tightened you need a helper to hold the shifter in the centered position while you hold the cup portion perfectly flat . Otherwise the cup may not tilt enough to either side BTDT.
Also you should test shift a few times to make sure the adjustments are correct. I wound up removing the back half of the shift rod to turn it onto the threaded stud portion of the cup . Make sure to use Loctite on the locknut and stud you dont want this coming loose..
And of course this whole thing is easier to do if the trans is also out. ..........I know........ I know..........

SharkSkin

I understand how it has to be aligned Stan, It's pretty obvious when you look at how it all goes together, plus the WSM goes into some detail on that exact issue. I plan to do all of my adjusting with the trans/TT assembled on the floor and am just wondering if the weird early bushing mount can be reached with the TT in position(or nearly in position). Once its adjusted I can disconnect the front rod from the shift lever if needed to access the mounting hardware for the bushing.

Visualize the front of the TT supported up near where it connects to the bell housing, trans lying on the floor. In this position I could swing the front shift rod upward, pivoting on the ball cup so that I could attach the bushing to the underside of the body. Then I could lift the trans into place, mount it up and reconnect the shift rod.

My original question was to anyone who has BTDT who might be able to tell me, "Oh yeah, you can('t) reach that easily with the TT in position". If the hardware can be reached easily enough then I won't have to jigger things around. I'll be under there later this weekend, I am busy clearing some work space and will get the car in the air and begin picking away at it. I can't see anything with the car on the ground, exhaust and heat shields in place.


Stan, the trans is coming out. I've been able to baby it along over the last year or so since the input shaft bearing started making noise, now the front seal seepage has turned to a very slow drip, the output shaft seals have been leaking. Plus the 1st & 2nd synchros have never been any good, though since I adjusted the clutch in my first month or two of ownership I have been able to drive the car well enough, grinding maybe every 200th shift into 2nd. I just have to eeease it into 2nd, feeling my way into engagement if that makes sense. No unusual quantity of chips(really just a thin sludge) on the drain plug, so I'm not doing too bad but it's time for a refresh. That was what I meant by my comment in the earlier thread about refreshing everything between the crankshaft and the CV joints.

Mrmerlin

as for the shift rod attach point I am not familiar, good luck on your project

jleidel

I did this just recently as well. It is quite nearly impossible to get a wrench on this guy w/o removing the TT. I did so using a set of shorty wrenches (just barely). A healthy dose of Locktite capped it off. Definitely not a fun job, but Carl's solid cup solution is the way to go.

Earl Gillstrom

Carl,

You might want to look at your directions. Step 4 says to "lock it in place with the jam nut"
Step 5 says "turn the inner barrel to set the drag" . You can't do this since you locked it in step 4.

If you ignore the above, how do you move the inner barrel? Pliers on the threads? If you can actually get pliers on the threads with the TT in the car.

My suggestion is to machine a hex into the barrel shaft where the two locknuts don't interfere. That way you could turn the barrel with an open end wrench. Probably difficult but better than pliers on the threads.

The other alternative is to change the first step of the directions to "Remove the TT from the car". And then put step 4 after step 6 in the directions.

SharkSkin

Answered one of my questions -- can't see the shift rod bushing at all to confirm how it's mounted, much less touch it. Can't even get my hand near it.

Carl, isn't your car a '78? I have your precision ball cup in hand, will be R&Ring TT & Trans. Any recommendations?

Carl Fausett

I just saw this thread. I wish I'd seen it earlier, sorry you are having difficulty with my directions.

Honestly, if you are having trouble with one of my products, a phone call to me at 920-485-0928 would save youa LOT of time, or an email to me directly at carl@928motorsports.com. If its a Rennlist questions, it may be days that you wait for me to see it. I'm often in the shop and not often at the PC on the Forum.

I'd like to help, just hate to see you wait for answers.

ABOUT THE DIRECTIONS:

We have improved those directions from the first ones that came out with the SBC. The new instructions have an improved method that will also allow you to set the drag on the shifter ball post as you install it.

The improved directions are available for download here:
http://www.928motorsports.com/install.html

Earl Gillstrom

Carl,

The new directions make sense. Thank you. It might have made sense to notify owners of previous shipped customers of the improved directions.

Marine Blue

I believe I posted a different way of installing this ball cup before, if someone does a search you'll find the thread.

Mrmerlin

If you look carefully at the install instructions the ball is from an early TT the later ***** have a ridge around the bottoms of the *****
SO if you dont have the cup centered on the ball with the shifter in the neutral position is is possible to lock the cup into a position that will not let the shift rod move to either side far enough. You may also find that the cup will hit the ridge and thus preven it from having full articulation. if this happens then some dremel work on removing the ridge should take care of things.

In the following pictures you can how I modified the cup to fit the ball, I sent these same pictures to Carl as the unit that I got was a first run part. I am not sure of what the new updated part look like.
This part was installed on Matts car it works great.
The cup must be held centered from side to side with shifter held in the neutral position or it will limit side to side throw distance, Once this is done then it can be locked down, note the blue loctite and the red grease.

HiWind

Any news on this? Work on a 964? Thanks for any info.

Carl Fausett

I have no idea whether this part would fit a 964. It'd be great if it did.

The last posts on this thread are dated 2008 - the part has had several re-designs since then, each time making it better.

HiWind

I'll measure the front ball but they look the same fwit
Or do you have the part number of the 928 piece that fits the 928 ball
Ie the white cup? I think they might be the same.

Ps ... What does it cost mailed to Florida?
And how does it look now ...Cldnt see transmission section on your site

Later .... Aha! Shd work if you confirm the OEM ball cup p/n
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/shifterballcup.php