greg928GTS

Here's a link to a small webpage with some photos and blurb about my recent sub-$100 alignment experience.

www.dcchomes.com/928alignment.html

I'm satisfied with the results and I'd do it again.

NickT

Nice write up. Great pictures of the process.

Keep us posted as to how it feels down the road..

Vilhuer

Reading it quickly through I didn't see any mention of centering steering rack. No big deal but its goot to center rack while at it. If steering wheel is after this off center it can be changed. Main point is anyway that wheel position is not what matters, its rack which needs to be centered. There is small plastic plug on rack body which needs to be undone to see when rack is in correct position.

Rear upper arm bushings are mostly unknown weak link in 928 suspension. Having been involved with several different alignments they seem to be first ones to cause problems.

Monitor shows '91-95 MY specs. They can be used on all late style suspension cars. Meaning '86.5 US model and all '86 ROW cars.

Marine Blue

Nice Greg, thanks for posting. I see the garage is also coming along nicely!

jon928se

That setup looks exactly like the setup at the shop I have used a couple of times but the Machine they use is a Beissbarth. The software screen shots look the same as well but I don't recall seeing the pics of the actual adjuster to use to adjust the respective adjustment.

In the pic of your rear camber adjusters you could have got more rear camber by pushing a flat blade screwdriver between the "fat" side of the eccentric and the nub on the mount to push the eccentric more to the right (in your picture)

kjurkic

I recently had my alignment done at a Kal-Tire shop, and it cost me $85CDN.

The specialist was an older gentleman who was more than happy to read through the notes I printed out on why to NOT jack the car to get it onto the slip-plates.

In the last while, I had done the upper balljoints, passenger lower balljoint (to ditch alum. original) and pass. upper control arm. I had to make a 1200km round trip WITHOUT an alignment, just basic check with levels, straight edge, and toe-guage we use for our circle-track cars. While the car was not squirrelly or "loose", I definitely would not have gotten full use of my front tires, as I got a lot of inside shoulder wear on that one trip.

After the alignment, the car definitely feels better, but not as "directionally solid" as I would like.

just my $0.02

Ken

greg928GTS

Added a bit about the steering wheel. The mechanic had a rig for holding the steering wheel centered. The computer told him when it was centered and that's where he locked it.

I asked him about sticking something in the rear camber eccentric bolt, but he didn't think we'd get enough out of it to make much of a difference. I disagreed, but I also didn't think it would stay put anyway so I just let it go.

Vilhuer

This is different thing than rack being centered. Rack can be set way off while both steering and wheels are just fine. End result is that wheels will turn different amount left and right. Difference is probably not so large that wheels would hit anything on full lock but rack is not centered while going straight.

JHowell37

I had mine aligned the other week and the rear camber results were identical to yours, and this was on my '85. They had turned the eccentrics to their max and that was as good as it got. So he might be right about the cause.

greg928GTS

Yeah, but I really don't want to think about taking an airbag steering wheel off.

Bill Ball

You do know it's not that hard or dangerous, right? Pull the battery ground for 20 minutes. Two screws. Pop it off and detach the wire.