Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Can't believe it- broke the timing belt

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-04-2007, 05:22 PM
  #16  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

why pull the engine? I think the heads are easy enough to get off the car, even though you have the studs like the early engines. I think it might be a whole lot cheaper to just pull that one head and replace those valves. those heads could be off in a few hours. replace the water pump and put on a new belt and you are done. when you pull it, its almost worth rebuilding the sucker! where do you stop.

these cars are bullet proof enough, to where i would fix what is bad.

$1000 to pull the head, $500 to fix the bent valves, $200head gasket , water pump is a good idea, there is $200, so the job is looking at near $2-2.5k.

mk
Old 09-04-2007, 05:22 PM
  #17  
hacker-pschorr
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
hacker-pschorr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Up Nort
Posts: 1,549
Received 2,168 Likes on 1,225 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by leperboy
Enzo, do you say this based on mileage or based on other potential problems from the busted timing belt? I assume mileage.

What sort of mileage warrants a rod bearings replacement WYAIT?

Matt
Because rod bearings are very cheap so why not while the pan is off? Or at least inspect them due to the mileage.

If anyone ever takes the pan off their 928, I would always inspect the #2 & #6 rod bearings.
Originally Posted by mark kibort
why pull the engine? I think the heads are easy enough to get off the car, even though you have the studs like the early engines.
If this is a budget strapped fix I agree 100%. If not, like I said before, the valve guides & seals are gone by 180k (I've seen heads with less than 100k with valve guids worn out). So with this higher mileage, I would rebuild the heads.
Old 09-04-2007, 05:36 PM
  #18  
Big Dave
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Big Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 7,969
Received 25 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mark Stahl
Hi, everyone-
Thanks for all the encouragement. I know, the light should have scared me more the first time, but that really wasn't that much warning!

As for doing it myself- were this two yrs. ago, sure. I think with the help of the board it could be done, despite my not being a master mechanic. Unfortunately this is my last year of med school, and the schedule is packed with both residency interviews and some pretty demanding clinical work. Hell, I've had my supercharger sitting in my garage for a year now because I didn't have time to do the install.... looks like the mechanic will have to do it.

A real shame because, beyond the initial $ spent on preventive work and routine maintainence, the car had been pretty decent in the $ department.

The fellow doing it is very familiar with 928s (Sonny at SM motorsports in New Hyde Park, Queens) and he'll probably have some suggestions- but what else should I have him do/check while he's in there? I appreciate the suggestions already made!

Thanks,
Mark
If you're having a mechanic do all the work, including the other "while you're at it" items, you should double your estimate to between $6K-8K.
Old 09-04-2007, 05:50 PM
  #19  
WallyP

Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor

 
WallyP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 6,469
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

If you have $8k into the repairs, you will then have a car worth about $8k.

If you sell the broken car for $1000, you can buy an S4 for the $9k that you will have. Just something to consider...

The economics are a lot different if you have to pay a mechanic.
Old 09-04-2007, 10:28 PM
  #20  
Shark Attack
Rennlist Member
 
Shark Attack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southern Utah
Posts: 11,012
Received 65 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Just wondering: How can you tell what valves are bent when no TB is on the car to do a compression test?
Old 09-04-2007, 10:31 PM
  #21  
hacker-pschorr
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
hacker-pschorr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Up Nort
Posts: 1,549
Received 2,168 Likes on 1,225 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Shark Attack
Just wondering: How can you tell what valves are bent when no TB is on the car to do a compression test?
Leak down test
Old 09-04-2007, 10:37 PM
  #22  
Shark Attack
Rennlist Member
 
Shark Attack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southern Utah
Posts: 11,012
Received 65 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Enzo
Leak down test
I have heard of this... what is it? isnt it basically a compression test but you are supplying the pressure through the spark plug hole? How would that work? How woudl one know when the valves were closed?
Old 09-05-2007, 01:03 AM
  #23  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 546 Likes on 409 Posts
Default

You fit a belt to it, set the valve timing correct, then snug it up enough to allow the engine to be rolled by hand through all eight TDC positions. The "leakdown" test in this case isn't too exotic-- It's pretty much a pass/fail test, and your ears can usually do the "grading".
Old 09-05-2007, 10:25 AM
  #24  
AO
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
 
AO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mark kibort
why pull the engine? I think the heads are easy enough to get off the car, even though you have the studs like the early engines. I think it might be a whole lot cheaper to just pull that one head and replace those valves. those heads could be off in a few hours. replace the water pump and put on a new belt and you are done. when you pull it, its almost worth rebuilding the sucker! where do you stop.

these cars are bullet proof enough, to where i would fix what is bad.

$1000 to pull the head, $500 to fix the bent valves, $200head gasket , water pump is a good idea, there is $200, so the job is looking at near $2-2.5k.

mk
Nope. Can't be done (except for Imo000). Just ask Big Dave, he's BTDT twice now!
Old 09-05-2007, 11:35 AM
  #25  
ROG100
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
ROG100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Double Oak, TX
Posts: 16,829
Received 880 Likes on 338 Posts
Default

Hi John,
IIRC it was every 5 years or 60k and then moved it to 7 years or 60k. I am sure someone will chime in and correct me.
I stick with 5 years or 45k miles whichever comes first. Age usually with most of the local 928's.
The high ambient heat takes its toll and why risk a TB break.
Roger
__________________

Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014

928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."






Old 09-05-2007, 12:50 PM
  #26  
Big Dave
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Big Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 7,969
Received 25 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Nope. Can't be done (except for Imo000). Just ask Big Dave, he's BTDT twice now!
Imo000 says it can be done with the engine in the car, but that it's not easy. He shortened one of the head studs to make future removals easier. I had a hard enough time removing the passenger side cam cover (because of clearance issues on the bottoms side of the cover). I opted to pull the engine to get at the heads. Having done it twice now, I don't think it's all that difficult. Messy, but not difficult.

I treated the task as therapy. I took my time (9 months the first time, 13 the second ) and worked on it whenever I had free time and there wasn't anything good on TV. On my 2nd job, I think it only took me about 30-40 hours total, but I only swapped heads rather than rebuilding them. If it weren't for the little problems that popped up along the way (busted bolts, slipping cam gear) it would have taken about 10 hours less.

Whatever you decide, good luck!
Old 09-05-2007, 01:40 PM
  #27  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Big Dave
Imo000 says it can be done with the engine in the car, but that it's not easy. He shortened one of the head studs to make future removals easier. I had a hard enough time removing the passenger side cam cover (because of clearance issues on the bottoms side of the cover). I opted to pull the engine to get at the heads. Having done it twice now, I don't think it's all that difficult. Messy, but not difficult.

I treated the task as therapy. I took my time (9 months the first time, 13 the second ) and worked on it whenever I had free time and there wasn't anything good on TV. On my 2nd job, I think it only took me about 30-40 hours total, but I only swapped heads rather than rebuilding them. If it weren't for the little problems that popped up along the way (busted bolts, slipping cam gear) it would have taken about 10 hours less.

Whatever you decide, good luck!
Yup, must be the only one here to say it CAN be done. It’s not easy but not too difficult either and much less work that pulling the engine out. Haven’t had too much time to work on mine this year but as soon as I have the heads off again, I’ll post pics to prove it. The motor mounts on mine were fairly good cause the engine still rocks when I blip the throttle, so it wasn’t from the extra clearance of collapsed MMs.
Old 09-05-2007, 02:10 PM
  #28  
chewy8000
Pro
 
chewy8000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Reston VA
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I just did it. The only thing that made it worse and more time consuming was all the "while I'm in there's". I was able to have both cam covers and heads off in a day. It will save you serious money if you take them to the shop seperately and they don't have to do it.





Old 09-05-2007, 02:28 PM
  #29  
Bill Ball
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Bill Ball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Buckeye, AZ
Posts: 18,647
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ROG100
Hi John,
IIRC it was every 5 years or 60k and then moved it to 7 years or 60k. I am sure someone will chime in and correct me.
I stick with 5 years or 45k miles whichever comes first. Age usually with most of the local 928's.
The high ambient heat takes its toll and why risk a TB break.
Roger
AFAIK there is no age limit. Hard to discuss what's resasonable. My 9 year old belt was very hard to tell from new when I removed it. The PO didn't drive much. The car sat indoors in a mild climate. Since then, I don't get more than 3-4 years before I hit the 60K mile change interval. I do a full inspection at each tension check. Porsche only calls for a tension check initially 2000-2500 miles after a new belt and again at 30K miles. Considering the serious consequences of a broken belt, many of us, me included, check more often than that. Outside of the mileage limit, I go on condition more than age. In some environments, 5-7 years may be reasonable.
Old 09-05-2007, 03:22 PM
  #30  
Lizard928
Nordschleife Master
 
Lizard928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 9,600
Received 34 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Chewy, the car in question is an early 32 valve and is a completely different story for removing the heads in the car. I wouldnt even bother with how easy it is to pull the engine.


Quick Reply: Can't believe it- broke the timing belt



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:56 PM.