5 Speed shifter - not very smooth
#1
Racer
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5 Speed shifter - not very smooth
My 1981 5 speed is again seeing normal use after a long resto project. I didn't redo the transaxel but did some work on the shift linkage (new bushings, cup, shortening). The shifter is not sloppy and failry precise going into gear but I'm noticeing that it's stiff coming out of gears (all gears). Anyone else have this probelem?
I'm planning on changing out the fluid to Redline 75W90NS due to some cold shifting/syncro issues. Anyone have any idea if the fluid might help this?
I'm planning on changing out the fluid to Redline 75W90NS due to some cold shifting/syncro issues. Anyone have any idea if the fluid might help this?
#3
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The only thing I did to the clutch was replace the master and slave cylinders. I power bled the system and it seems to be OK.
If it were a clearance / release issue, wouldn't that also effect gear engagement? It seems to engage gears fine after it warms up. First is a little chunky but I thnik tyhat synchro's seen better days.
If it were a clearance / release issue, wouldn't that also effect gear engagement? It seems to engage gears fine after it warms up. First is a little chunky but I thnik tyhat synchro's seen better days.
#4
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You might want to adjust the center plate in the clutch and check things in there visually. It might also be worth pulling the clutch assembly out so you can clean, check and lube everything in there. If you do pull it, replace the top clutch arm bushing.
#5
My 78 with the G28/03 trans does this too. I just had replaced it last year. Every once in awhile it will hang up comming out of 5th. Or not select 1st or reverse at start up. It's more of an annoying quirk. If you figure it out please post so I CAN PUT IT ON MY LIST OF THINGS TO DO.
#6
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Wally,
I'll check it (cuase you tha man) but, I don't think thats the problem (although I've been wrong before). Here's why I question it. If there was a clearance issue bad enough to cause gear pressure that would make gear disengagemen difficult, then I would expect that lack of clearance (or friction) to be spinning the trans. shafts with the trans in nuetral and the clutch depressed. This should produce some grinding going into reverse since it's a non-syncro gear??? I'm not getting that.
So in my pea brain, I don't have enough friction to spin the shafts in nuetral then I should not have enough friction to keep a selected gear from dis-engaging. Sound reasonable?
It seams like some kind of linkage bind or a detent sticking (I don't know if my box has any detents).
Not that it helps but I'm glad someone else has experienced this.
I'll check it (cuase you tha man) but, I don't think thats the problem (although I've been wrong before). Here's why I question it. If there was a clearance issue bad enough to cause gear pressure that would make gear disengagemen difficult, then I would expect that lack of clearance (or friction) to be spinning the trans. shafts with the trans in nuetral and the clutch depressed. This should produce some grinding going into reverse since it's a non-syncro gear??? I'm not getting that.
So in my pea brain, I don't have enough friction to spin the shafts in nuetral then I should not have enough friction to keep a selected gear from dis-engaging. Sound reasonable?
It seams like some kind of linkage bind or a detent sticking (I don't know if my box has any detents).
Not that it helps but I'm glad someone else has experienced this.
#7
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Perhaps an easier test for clutch drag - Just jack both rear wheels off the ground, and see if the rear wheels spin. Engine running, transmission in 5th gear, clutch pedal on the floor.
Brake to stop the wheels, and see if the engine idle speed drops.
Repeat in reverse.
That should give a pretty good check on clutch drag.
Brake to stop the wheels, and see if the engine idle speed drops.
Repeat in reverse.
That should give a pretty good check on clutch drag.
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#8
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John,
The early 5 speed (G28-01 to 08 1977-1984) have this type of drivability problem, hard, heavy shifts. The main reason being, the synchronizers, it’s a 5 piece steel setup (synchronizer ring, shift band (2), thrust block, and stop). Too many components for a smooth synchro mesh.
It’s possible to have a disengagement (dragging clutch) problem and not grind reverse.
Yes, your G28-05 trans has detent plungers for the shift rods, but it’s highly unlikely all three plungers are sticking.
I would change the fluid to Swepo synthetic and adjust the dual mass clutch assembly. Devek’s website has the procedure.
Good Luck,
Steve C
The Great White
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The early 5 speed (G28-01 to 08 1977-1984) have this type of drivability problem, hard, heavy shifts. The main reason being, the synchronizers, it’s a 5 piece steel setup (synchronizer ring, shift band (2), thrust block, and stop). Too many components for a smooth synchro mesh.
It’s possible to have a disengagement (dragging clutch) problem and not grind reverse.
Yes, your G28-05 trans has detent plungers for the shift rods, but it’s highly unlikely all three plungers are sticking.
I would change the fluid to Swepo synthetic and adjust the dual mass clutch assembly. Devek’s website has the procedure.
Good Luck,
Steve C
The Great White
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#9
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Wally and Steve,
Thanks for the insight, it's much appreciated. I haven't yet looked at the clutch center adjust... I almost hate to because I struggle bleeding the clutch sys. I have done the rear wheel test and they don't spin in any gear with the clutch on the floor. Move the clutch up just a little and they spin so I would bet that an adjustment is in order.
Steve, I think your right relative to the early boxes driveablity. Thats one aspect of the car I don't like at all. I changed the fluid out today to Redline 75w90ns and it actually feels a little worse... I'll give it some time to work in though.
I was not pleased with how much debris was on the magnetic drain plugs
Anyone know if the box can swapped with the newer Borg Warner style syncro one?
Thanks for the insight, it's much appreciated. I haven't yet looked at the clutch center adjust... I almost hate to because I struggle bleeding the clutch sys. I have done the rear wheel test and they don't spin in any gear with the clutch on the floor. Move the clutch up just a little and they spin so I would bet that an adjustment is in order.
Steve, I think your right relative to the early boxes driveablity. Thats one aspect of the car I don't like at all. I changed the fluid out today to Redline 75w90ns and it actually feels a little worse... I'll give it some time to work in though.
I was not pleased with how much debris was on the magnetic drain plugs
Anyone know if the box can swapped with the newer Borg Warner style syncro one?
#10
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John,
In 1985 the 5 speeds were completely revised (G28-10, 11). New case, synchronizers as you know ,Borg Warner, bearings, forks. Revisions were also made to the front and rear selector rods (on top of the torque tube) and the shift lever.
In 1987 the 5 speeds underwent another change (G28.12 to I’m not sure but I think all the way up to the GTS’s). The gear sets are 2 to 3 mm wider for higher engine torque. The synchro assemblies are from the 911-carrera G50 transmissions. These synchronizers have molybdenum on the inner tapers for better shifting. This is the baby you want if you plan on making real HP.
I don’t know about the conversion, maybe somebody else can chime in with the particulars.
I would love to dump my auto for a 5-speed conversion; you can’t appreciate a true sports car unless it’s a 5 speed.
PS. The metal is not a good sign
Steve C
The Great White
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In 1985 the 5 speeds were completely revised (G28-10, 11). New case, synchronizers as you know ,Borg Warner, bearings, forks. Revisions were also made to the front and rear selector rods (on top of the torque tube) and the shift lever.
In 1987 the 5 speeds underwent another change (G28.12 to I’m not sure but I think all the way up to the GTS’s). The gear sets are 2 to 3 mm wider for higher engine torque. The synchro assemblies are from the 911-carrera G50 transmissions. These synchronizers have molybdenum on the inner tapers for better shifting. This is the baby you want if you plan on making real HP.
I don’t know about the conversion, maybe somebody else can chime in with the particulars.
I would love to dump my auto for a 5-speed conversion; you can’t appreciate a true sports car unless it’s a 5 speed.
PS. The metal is not a good sign
Steve C
The Great White
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#11
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Steve, thanks for the info.
I'm not worried about torque as I don't ever expect to see huge numbers. I really want better shifting feel. I was into Datsun Z's in a past life and the early 70's Z's shift orders of magnitude better than my shark. I hesitate to rebuild if the problem is inherent to the early box and would be most intersted in putting in a better shifting box. I've read that there were some postion changes in the box and I'd be real interested in what would be involved in the change i.e. torque tube, mounts, axels ???
I'm not worried about torque as I don't ever expect to see huge numbers. I really want better shifting feel. I was into Datsun Z's in a past life and the early 70's Z's shift orders of magnitude better than my shark. I hesitate to rebuild if the problem is inherent to the early box and would be most intersted in putting in a better shifting box. I've read that there were some postion changes in the box and I'd be real interested in what would be involved in the change i.e. torque tube, mounts, axels ???
#12
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Two cars now I have used lucas h.d. oil treatment in the transaxle's a 914 and 928. I have noticed improvements to both. I would use about 50/50 ratio of the stuff. My car shifts a bit easier now. It's worth the 20bucks I say ($10qt). Let me know I don't think you will be dissapointed.
F1 qualifying tonight.....goooo toyota! <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
F1 qualifying tonight.....goooo toyota! <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
#14
John,
For what it's worth, I changed out the fluid in my 83S Euro 5sp w/LSD to Swepco. The trans was newly rebuilt and the clutch was new when I bought it, but the shifting was still not easy.
After the change of fluid, the shifting is noticeably better. It is easier to shift up and down. I don't think the trans will ever be very smooth shifting. Jay Kempf told me to consider it like a big truck tranny and expect it to act like one. I do, and it does. I guess it's really about expectation levels. LOL
The one thing I have noticed is the clutch needs to be clear on the floor before you move the gear lever. That helped me a lot.
Let us know what you learn.
cheers, <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Joe Ferguson
'88 S4 A/T (her driver)
'83S Euro 5sp (my project)
For what it's worth, I changed out the fluid in my 83S Euro 5sp w/LSD to Swepco. The trans was newly rebuilt and the clutch was new when I bought it, but the shifting was still not easy.
After the change of fluid, the shifting is noticeably better. It is easier to shift up and down. I don't think the trans will ever be very smooth shifting. Jay Kempf told me to consider it like a big truck tranny and expect it to act like one. I do, and it does. I guess it's really about expectation levels. LOL
The one thing I have noticed is the clutch needs to be clear on the floor before you move the gear lever. That helped me a lot.
Let us know what you learn.
cheers, <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Joe Ferguson
'88 S4 A/T (her driver)
'83S Euro 5sp (my project)