Aftermarket paint? What kind to use?
01-23-2003, 04:47 PM
#18
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Here are some colors used on the BMW Z-coupes.
<a href="http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/" target="_blank">http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/</a>
There is a retired dark green color (Boston green) that you might like and it would good with your tan leather. <a href="http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/z307-dark.html" target="_blank">http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/z307-dark.html</a>
LOL
<a href="http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/" target="_blank">http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/</a>
There is a retired dark green color (Boston green) that you might like and it would good with your tan leather. <a href="http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/z307-dark.html" target="_blank">http://www.zroadster.net/tim/colors/z307-dark.html</a>
LOL
01-23-2003, 10:57 PM
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Interesting how all the discussion turned to paint color...
My 81 was repainted with Speis Hecker paint. It is a German brand. The color matches *perfectly*, it has shined beautifully for the last 10 years, and it has never bubbled/peeled/chipped, etc. It seems to be available, if you look around, & I would recommend it to everyone. I remember the painter telling me it was a little more costly.
My 81 was repainted with Speis Hecker paint. It is a German brand. The color matches *perfectly*, it has shined beautifully for the last 10 years, and it has never bubbled/peeled/chipped, etc. It seems to be available, if you look around, & I would recommend it to everyone. I remember the painter telling me it was a little more costly.
01-23-2003, 10:59 PM
#21
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John, I stopped by that Paint Masters yesterday to get an idea of the cost of repainting the hood on my truck (factory defect, flaking paint), I also mentioned that I would be bringing in the 928 for an estimate. My BMW was repainted by them in 1999 and looked great. BTW they had a framed drawing of an early 928 hanging in their lobby.
Greg, I think the Hunter green would look great on it, don't be so content on the Porsche colors there are so many others to choose from (though I love the Lapis blue).
Greg, I think the Hunter green would look great on it, don't be so content on the Porsche colors there are so many others to choose from (though I love the Lapis blue).
01-24-2003, 03:32 AM
#22
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I once talked with a local body shop owner about fixing the rock chips and a few minor things. He recommended to wait until it is bad enough to make it worth wile to do the whole car.
He offered me to do a "same color" job for $3,500. He would remove all trim, strip all paint down to the metal, fix any dings, weld the holes for the side moldings (and side markers, if I'd want that, too), and then build the paint from scratch.
He told me that on his restaurations (e.g. 60ies Mercedes 300 SL) he uses only German made and mixed paint, because paint in the US is cannot be made with certain chemicals that make the paint last longer and look better.
He showed me a Mercedes 500SL on which he had just completed a color change from light blue metallic to a dark blue metallic. I have never seen a new Mercedes with a paint that deeply glossy - it definitely looked better than the factory jobs.
Yes, I'd love to change the exterior color of my car to cobalt blue, violet blue, or amazon green metallic, but given the difference in cost, I think I will stick with the original color when it comes to redoing it. And that won't happen for quite a few years...
PS: I'd factor about $1,000 for replacing rubber and trim pieces during a repaint job. Masking off the trim? I have never seen acceptable results from doing that, and would not recommend it.
Did I tell you that I prepped my Renault Fuego for a repaint (except roof), while I was working at the Autohaus after high school? I sprayed the bumpers myself, but did not dare to do the actual car...
He offered me to do a "same color" job for $3,500. He would remove all trim, strip all paint down to the metal, fix any dings, weld the holes for the side moldings (and side markers, if I'd want that, too), and then build the paint from scratch.
He told me that on his restaurations (e.g. 60ies Mercedes 300 SL) he uses only German made and mixed paint, because paint in the US is cannot be made with certain chemicals that make the paint last longer and look better.
He showed me a Mercedes 500SL on which he had just completed a color change from light blue metallic to a dark blue metallic. I have never seen a new Mercedes with a paint that deeply glossy - it definitely looked better than the factory jobs.
Yes, I'd love to change the exterior color of my car to cobalt blue, violet blue, or amazon green metallic, but given the difference in cost, I think I will stick with the original color when it comes to redoing it. And that won't happen for quite a few years...
PS: I'd factor about $1,000 for replacing rubber and trim pieces during a repaint job. Masking off the trim? I have never seen acceptable results from doing that, and would not recommend it.
Did I tell you that I prepped my Renault Fuego for a repaint (except roof), while I was working at the Autohaus after high school? I sprayed the bumpers myself, but did not dare to do the actual car...
01-24-2003, 11:13 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
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Hi Nicole,
I intend to strip the car down to a point where little *if any* masking will be needed. Many parts can be painted seperatly and then re-installed. Some rubber will be replaced.
I'll talk to the body shop guy about the german paint. The BMW paint choices may be a good idea. The red and green are great. Although this shop is a "meat and potatoes" general autobody shop, I've seen the specialty work they have done on ricers and rods as well as motorcycles. They are no doubt qualified to spray this car.
Greg
I intend to strip the car down to a point where little *if any* masking will be needed. Many parts can be painted seperatly and then re-installed. Some rubber will be replaced.
I'll talk to the body shop guy about the german paint. The BMW paint choices may be a good idea. The red and green are great. Although this shop is a "meat and potatoes" general autobody shop, I've seen the specialty work they have done on ricers and rods as well as motorcycles. They are no doubt qualified to spray this car.
Greg
Last edited by Greg86andahalf; 12-01-2003 at 12:25 AM.
01-24-2003, 04:22 PM
#25
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The only two paint systems I would use on a Porsche are Glasurit or Sikkins. I would stay away from Sherwin Williams, DuPont, Nason, or any other lower end stuff. It doesn't look as good or hold up as well. If you want to shave some cost, PPG makes a decent paint for the money.
Make sure you go with a full Urethane system, regardless of the brand you select. Ask the shop if they use any laquer products. If they do, then find another shop (trust me). Laquer primers are garbage, but some shops still use them. Also, ask the shop if they wet sand to prepare for painting. If they claim it is too messy and doesn't matter if they dry sand, then find another shop. The prep work makes or breaks the paint job, and over time sandpaper scratches in laquer primer will show up like a sore thumb, especially on dark colors. The Urethane will actually fall into the sanding scratches after a year or so. Unless the car has damage, I would not strip to bare metal. The electro-statically applied factory primer is hard to beat.
I would DA sand the entire car to prep the surface, then lay down some high build urethane primer. Then start wet sanding it off until smooth. Spray a light sealer when you are done, then base and clear coat the car.
The Sikkins or Glasurit is very hard to beat. The paint lasts longer, but is very expensive.
Make sure you go with a full Urethane system, regardless of the brand you select. Ask the shop if they use any laquer products. If they do, then find another shop (trust me). Laquer primers are garbage, but some shops still use them. Also, ask the shop if they wet sand to prepare for painting. If they claim it is too messy and doesn't matter if they dry sand, then find another shop. The prep work makes or breaks the paint job, and over time sandpaper scratches in laquer primer will show up like a sore thumb, especially on dark colors. The Urethane will actually fall into the sanding scratches after a year or so. Unless the car has damage, I would not strip to bare metal. The electro-statically applied factory primer is hard to beat.
I would DA sand the entire car to prep the surface, then lay down some high build urethane primer. Then start wet sanding it off until smooth. Spray a light sealer when you are done, then base and clear coat the car.
The Sikkins or Glasurit is very hard to beat. The paint lasts longer, but is very expensive.
01-25-2003, 06:04 AM
#26
Hi guys and gal please don't take this the wrong way, but I can't see how you can get a great paint job for the money you are talking. $3500 - $4000. Especially an inside and out job! When I repainted my car I was quoted the equivelant of $10,000 USD or about $18000 AUD I ended up doing most of the prep myself and it still cost $4000 USD. The car was supplied to the painter fully prepped and they had it for 4 days, I then spent 2 weeks putting it back together and buffing it.
I love the Moss Green, I personally would stick to a Porsche colour myself, and you may find when your original colour is resprayed that it has new life again. I agree with John's comments, I believe the order I would choose the paint in would be Glasurit, Standox, Spies Hecker, I used Glasurit and paid for it, it does'nt come cheap but as far as quality goes I know no better.
A comment from John's post, about dry rubbing, it can leave sand stratches, also the amount of time from when the car is primed to colour coated. Beware of sink backs! or old repairs, the down side to leaving enough time for the primer to truely harden is the amount of damage that will happen to your car while in the shop. Pay a ramdom visit and see all the work that goes on around your car or all the pieces that are stacked on your car!
Things to ask questions about are flex additives being used? Sounds stupid but there are plenty of stupid painters. Prep of the aluminium, checking for corrosion, especially any stone chipped areas, these need to be stripped. The 928 has so many parts, when disasembled for paint, I would like to know how many 928s they had painted, and what precautions they are taking to stop the bars going out of shape when baked. Porsche used to supply foam inserts.
Hope this helps and be careful.
Greg
<img src="http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshots/MomentOfFame/l18813.jpg" alt=" - " />
I love the Moss Green, I personally would stick to a Porsche colour myself, and you may find when your original colour is resprayed that it has new life again. I agree with John's comments, I believe the order I would choose the paint in would be Glasurit, Standox, Spies Hecker, I used Glasurit and paid for it, it does'nt come cheap but as far as quality goes I know no better.
A comment from John's post, about dry rubbing, it can leave sand stratches, also the amount of time from when the car is primed to colour coated. Beware of sink backs! or old repairs, the down side to leaving enough time for the primer to truely harden is the amount of damage that will happen to your car while in the shop. Pay a ramdom visit and see all the work that goes on around your car or all the pieces that are stacked on your car!
Things to ask questions about are flex additives being used? Sounds stupid but there are plenty of stupid painters. Prep of the aluminium, checking for corrosion, especially any stone chipped areas, these need to be stripped. The 928 has so many parts, when disasembled for paint, I would like to know how many 928s they had painted, and what precautions they are taking to stop the bars going out of shape when baked. Porsche used to supply foam inserts.
Hope this helps and be careful.
Greg
<img src="http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshots/MomentOfFame/l18813.jpg" alt=" - " />
01-25-2003, 09:08 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Greg,
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">what precautions they are taking to stop the bars going out of shape when baked. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Can you elaborate? Just so I'm sure I understand what you're referencing?
Thanks,
Greg
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">what precautions they are taking to stop the bars going out of shape when baked. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Can you elaborate? Just so I'm sure I understand what you're referencing?
Thanks,
Greg
01-25-2003, 02:14 PM
#29
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Um DuPont is not low quality paint, they do sell lower qualitys of paint. I used DuPont ChromaBase And thier primer. My car is ruby red metallic and it is like looking in a mirror. ChromaBase does take alot to prep. YOu do have to wetsand and do not take it to the metal unless there is rust or something like that. I also had .5 gallon of clear put on mine.
01-25-2003, 07:26 PM
#30
Hi Greg if you bake your bars at the same temp as the car, i.e. 60 degrees c you will never put them back on! They will be a floppy mess, permanently distorted. You will find unless the bars are cared for properly, that they will distort. I used a lower temp to bake them 40 c and then fitted them while they were still hot. When they cool depending on what you have painted on or painted over you may find that the paint will crack when you attempt to fit them. I used new bars, so previous painting wasn't an issue.
Maybe you should sand them back to bare plastic and at the same time you can use a special b/bar plastic, which I even had to use on the new bars to get them as close to distortion free as possible. Depending on where you live the heat will sink in the plastic over time especially on the front b/bar. You will find when you put new paint over imperfect surfaces it (the fault) only becomes more obvious. As I said before I am fussy.
An idea, which I haven't tried, would be to fill the back of the bar with space invader foam, maybe this would stop the bar from distorting when baked.
Cheers Greg. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Maybe you should sand them back to bare plastic and at the same time you can use a special b/bar plastic, which I even had to use on the new bars to get them as close to distortion free as possible. Depending on where you live the heat will sink in the plastic over time especially on the front b/bar. You will find when you put new paint over imperfect surfaces it (the fault) only becomes more obvious. As I said before I am fussy.
An idea, which I haven't tried, would be to fill the back of the bar with space invader foam, maybe this would stop the bar from distorting when baked.
Cheers Greg. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />