What motor oil do you use - Another survey
03-05-2003, 01:18 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
What motor oil do you use - Another survey
.....yes. Can't help it but, I do like to know these kinda things.
So questions are.
1) Year/Type auto
2) Oil Brand/Weight/type (synthetic or not..etc)
3) Comments/Concerns
-------------------------------------------------
Me first.
1) 1981 928 Auto
2) Castrol 10w-40 (non-synthetic)
3) Probably gonna discontinue use this weekend. (car new, PO had put this in). I've, for some reason but can't remember why, stayed away from any 10/40wt....read something somewhere). I would prefer to run a 15w-50 M1 or something like that.
So questions are.
1) Year/Type auto
2) Oil Brand/Weight/type (synthetic or not..etc)
3) Comments/Concerns
-------------------------------------------------
Me first.
1) 1981 928 Auto
2) Castrol 10w-40 (non-synthetic)
3) Probably gonna discontinue use this weekend. (car new, PO had put this in). I've, for some reason but can't remember why, stayed away from any 10/40wt....read something somewhere). I would prefer to run a 15w-50 M1 or something like that.
03-05-2003, 01:37 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
OK, my turn.
1. 83 US 928S (transmittion type? mannual)
2. Shell Rotell T 15W-40 dino juice
3. It's warmer where I live, so not only can I use a heaver oil, but I actualy NEED to. Also, Shell Rotell T is free for me. My car seems to love to leak oil, and well, synthetic could easily get expensive.
I would NOT go for a wider diffrence in the dino multi grade oils. The reason is because to make a dino oil multi-grade, the oil company adds "viscosity index modifyers". These are substances that have the consisity of puddy, but disolve in oil. If the more viscosity modifyer is disolved in the oil, the less trash/combustion by-products can be. Now, any oil recomended by Porsche should be OK, but I'd prefer to lean more to the side of less viscosity index modifyer, rather than more. Also, IIRC, more modifyers have to be put in the oil to make it 10W-30, than 15W-40. 10W-40 would nead a HUGE amount of viscosity modifyers, and well, thats not good. Now according to my owner's mannual, 10W-40, and 10W-50 are OK, but I'm not comfertable with them. If I could get 20W-50 for the same price, I'd use it, simply because I don't have to worry about the cold weather abilitys, it almost ever freezes, much less makes it to 15`F, or -10`C.
Now, some syntehtics are a completely diffrent deal. To make the oil a multi grade, they break up the carbon chains, and reform them in a diffrent mannor, that gives the desired multi grade charatoristic. This is a MUCH better way of modifying the viscosity index. No index modifyers, no puddy disolved in the mix, better control over the index.
1. 83 US 928S (transmittion type? mannual)
2. Shell Rotell T 15W-40 dino juice
3. It's warmer where I live, so not only can I use a heaver oil, but I actualy NEED to. Also, Shell Rotell T is free for me. My car seems to love to leak oil, and well, synthetic could easily get expensive.
I would NOT go for a wider diffrence in the dino multi grade oils. The reason is because to make a dino oil multi-grade, the oil company adds "viscosity index modifyers". These are substances that have the consisity of puddy, but disolve in oil. If the more viscosity modifyer is disolved in the oil, the less trash/combustion by-products can be. Now, any oil recomended by Porsche should be OK, but I'd prefer to lean more to the side of less viscosity index modifyer, rather than more. Also, IIRC, more modifyers have to be put in the oil to make it 10W-30, than 15W-40. 10W-40 would nead a HUGE amount of viscosity modifyers, and well, thats not good. Now according to my owner's mannual, 10W-40, and 10W-50 are OK, but I'm not comfertable with them. If I could get 20W-50 for the same price, I'd use it, simply because I don't have to worry about the cold weather abilitys, it almost ever freezes, much less makes it to 15`F, or -10`C.
Now, some syntehtics are a completely diffrent deal. To make the oil a multi grade, they break up the carbon chains, and reform them in a diffrent mannor, that gives the desired multi grade charatoristic. This is a MUCH better way of modifying the viscosity index. No index modifyers, no puddy disolved in the mix, better control over the index.
03-05-2003, 02:24 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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First my answer:
1) 1981 928 US Spec 5sp
2) Valvoline 20w-50 Full Synthetic
3) I have to deal with a wide variety of temperature ranges and road condidtions (distance and speeds change a lot). I figure Porsche calls for this weight for a reason.
My choice of Valvoline over M1 is based on some information I got from the DEVEK FAQ section. According to them, Red Line and Valvoline are recommended synthetics for the 928 due to it's tendency to ingest oil in the intake at excessive RPM causing a low compression state and possible detonation. Valvoline's synth (like Red Line) is more easily digested and doesn't negatively impact compression like other less qualified lubricants. This is a common condition on track cars, so common in fact that racers are known to use a heavy 2 cycle oil instead due to it's mixability with gasoline and lack of emission standards at the track.
As for the tech stuff, I'm a lemming. I heard it was good. If I could bring myself to pay $8.00 a quart for oil, I'd use Red-Line. But that's just plain silly, when you can get good stuff for half that. Think about it, $100 oil changes are a bit much even for a Porsche.
Tim
1981 928 Comp Pkg
Shark dead in the water
1) 1981 928 US Spec 5sp
2) Valvoline 20w-50 Full Synthetic
3) I have to deal with a wide variety of temperature ranges and road condidtions (distance and speeds change a lot). I figure Porsche calls for this weight for a reason.
My choice of Valvoline over M1 is based on some information I got from the DEVEK FAQ section. According to them, Red Line and Valvoline are recommended synthetics for the 928 due to it's tendency to ingest oil in the intake at excessive RPM causing a low compression state and possible detonation. Valvoline's synth (like Red Line) is more easily digested and doesn't negatively impact compression like other less qualified lubricants. This is a common condition on track cars, so common in fact that racers are known to use a heavy 2 cycle oil instead due to it's mixability with gasoline and lack of emission standards at the track.
As for the tech stuff, I'm a lemming. I heard it was good. If I could bring myself to pay $8.00 a quart for oil, I'd use Red-Line. But that's just plain silly, when you can get good stuff for half that. Think about it, $100 oil changes are a bit much even for a Porsche.
Tim
1981 928 Comp Pkg
Shark dead in the water
03-05-2003, 03:15 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
raced with kendall 20-50 with my ole '84 and then as it got hp up to the 240 range, and my racing was more frequent, moved to redline.
now, Im really beating on the poor engine, and switched to Amzoil 20-50 racing oil.
shear tests and longevity is the reason I switched.
MK
now, Im really beating on the poor engine, and switched to Amzoil 20-50 racing oil.
shear tests and longevity is the reason I switched.
MK
03-05-2003, 03:40 PM
#6
Addict
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I switched from Dino to synthetic thinking I may end up with some oil leaks on my 82. The car had 80K+ miles on it when I did, it now has 110K. Didn't have one leak! I have been running Valvoline High Performance 20W-50 here in southern California.
So far, I have no complaints.
I forget why I didn't use Mobil 1, but no big deal. FWIW, I have a 92 F150 that I bought new and used Mobil 1 since new. The truck now has 250K on it and the engine still purrs.
So far, I have no complaints.
I forget why I didn't use Mobil 1, but no big deal. FWIW, I have a 92 F150 that I bought new and used Mobil 1 since new. The truck now has 250K on it and the engine still purrs.
03-05-2003, 04:06 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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1982, auto, 152K mi.
Valvoline 10w 40 per the manual and Mn. weather.
Always have used Valvoline in all my engines.
A note on synthetics: I read that if you store your car for any number of months, the synth. oils don't leave a lasting film on the parts, and they can actually rust whle sitting there...Just FYI. - Ruf
Valvoline 10w 40 per the manual and Mn. weather.
Always have used Valvoline in all my engines.
A note on synthetics: I read that if you store your car for any number of months, the synth. oils don't leave a lasting film on the parts, and they can actually rust whle sitting there...Just FYI. - Ruf
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03-05-2003, 04:10 PM
#8
Inventor
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'81 4.5 120K
Valvoline Super Blue 15-40 (diesel oil, comes in gal jugs), until I reseal the engine, then I'm switching to synthetic.
928ntslow - did you use Valvoline because of the study which indicated that it burns well if injested?
Valvoline Super Blue 15-40 (diesel oil, comes in gal jugs), until I reseal the engine, then I'm switching to synthetic.
928ntslow - did you use Valvoline because of the study which indicated that it burns well if injested?
03-05-2003, 06:08 PM
#10
The GT runs Castrol TWS....BMW and Porsche spec fully sythetic 10W60....(currently only available at your BMW dealer..$9/litre)
Just trying it out..so far so good..no leaks and still looks good after 3/4 year, with normal GT consumption..(about 1litre/3000 miles) at 220000 KM>..or 136,000 miles..
The S4 has run on Mobil 1 15-50..and even when I change it...it looks the same as when it went in. No discernable consumption on the S4 even at 148,000 miles.
Later,
Tom
midlman@Seanet.com
Just trying it out..so far so good..no leaks and still looks good after 3/4 year, with normal GT consumption..(about 1litre/3000 miles) at 220000 KM>..or 136,000 miles..
The S4 has run on Mobil 1 15-50..and even when I change it...it looks the same as when it went in. No discernable consumption on the S4 even at 148,000 miles.
Later,
Tom
midlman@Seanet.com
03-05-2003, 06:11 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
87 S4 auto with 162k on it.
Switched from the regular junk that jiffy lube put in it from the PO's oil changes, to Mobil1 15/50w. Love the stuff. Made my engine run smoother and felt better too. Seemed to reduce some vibration (motor mounts are anihilated). Same effect when I installed the Beru +4s.
NTslow - Your F150 is lasting that long?!! Haha, must be the Mobil <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> .
Very happy with the M1 stuff, but I've heard that some specific type of Valvoline was supposed to be better in general. Anyone know?
Switched from the regular junk that jiffy lube put in it from the PO's oil changes, to Mobil1 15/50w. Love the stuff. Made my engine run smoother and felt better too. Seemed to reduce some vibration (motor mounts are anihilated). Same effect when I installed the Beru +4s.
NTslow - Your F150 is lasting that long?!! Haha, must be the Mobil <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> .
Very happy with the M1 stuff, but I've heard that some specific type of Valvoline was supposed to be better in general. Anyone know?
03-05-2003, 06:17 PM
#12
Addict
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1982 928 US Auto
Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic
My previous mechanic warned me against using synthetic, suggesting it would leak. However, I changed to synthetic 20k miles back, and no oil leaks up to this point (not counting the cracked oil pan).
Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic
My previous mechanic warned me against using synthetic, suggesting it would leak. However, I changed to synthetic 20k miles back, and no oil leaks up to this point (not counting the cracked oil pan).
03-05-2003, 06:23 PM
#13
Sharkaholic
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'86 on Castrol 10-30 dino oil
82,000 miles
'86.5 on same
103,000 miles
Jeep Cherokee, Ford F250, and Mustang on Mobil 1 15-50 Syn.
I'll change the Porsches' over to Mobil 1 after I pull the engines and regasket.
82,000 miles
'86.5 on same
103,000 miles
Jeep Cherokee, Ford F250, and Mustang on Mobil 1 15-50 Syn.
I'll change the Porsches' over to Mobil 1 after I pull the engines and regasket.
03-05-2003, 07:15 PM
#14
Cottage Industry Sponsor
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1) '91 S4 auto
2) Mobil 1 - whatever DEVEK filled-in last time
3) Following factory recommendations, changed about once a year (that's after 6-7k miles)
2) Mobil 1 - whatever DEVEK filled-in last time
3) Following factory recommendations, changed about once a year (that's after 6-7k miles)
03-05-2003, 08:23 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
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84 - Mobil 1 15/50 Synth
78 - Mobil 1 15/50 Synth
83 Euro - none at this point
Changing about every 5k miles. 84 needs a pan gasket. 78 is dry as a bone. Went from M1 synth in the tranny to Valvoline dino on the 84 hoping to stop the TC leaks. No joy altho it has slowed. Gonna pull that tranny real soon now.
78 - Mobil 1 15/50 Synth
83 Euro - none at this point
Changing about every 5k miles. 84 needs a pan gasket. 78 is dry as a bone. Went from M1 synth in the tranny to Valvoline dino on the 84 hoping to stop the TC leaks. No joy altho it has slowed. Gonna pull that tranny real soon now.